adamzan

I can almost guarantee you that hubs are the issue. They brake plates wear down and do exactly what your describing.

Mine was always tight and quiet. It only started rattling after I lubed it so it would open easier. Go figure...

You can replace the hinge pins and bushings. It's similar to a door pin replacement.

Wonder if it was this one?

That or the o2 sensor if you haven't changed it.

Yea, what ^ he said. If you don't want to buy the adapter from the dealer, you can add your own ground in. That's what I did on my old rig. I just removed the insulation from the ground wire (IIRC it is the one that connects to the middle pin, but do a continuity check to be sure), and then soldered a new wire to the exposed section, with a ring terminal on the other end. I attached it to the alternator ground that is bolted to the rad support near the air box.

It's a cup for the shock bushings. When you get new shocks, you'll see they only come with 2 new cups, for the outsides. That is supposed to be there.

That sounds like the FPR vacuum line. You should reconnect it if you haven't already. there is a barb fitting for it on the back of the intake.

Mine is white and when you look down the side of it you can see your reflection in it. Sounds like you need to buff and wax your truck.

Just drive it in power mode all the time. It behaves much better that way. I don't really have any issues with mine, it pulls on the highway in overdrive just fine. Except when I have the 33" tires on, then it will gear down on inclines. No big deal.

It's not hard to keep your paint nice. As green machine just prooved you don't need to spend a lot on wax. Just avoid armor all.

Yep. The electronic shocks were just an option. Swap them with whatever you like. I prefer the manual. Although i have both an auto and 5 speed pathy. Both are loaded SEs.

3.0 has 3 v-belts, only the A/C one has an idler, they commonly just make a slight grinding sound. Not even something to really worry about. I replaced mine because goodyear idler pulleys were on sale at partsource...

What about o2 sensors?

if it is squealing when you drive you need to tighten the belt.

Sounds like the typical maf sensor wire at the plug issue. Not sure if you've tried wiggling that. Also tighten your belts

5523 If I can find it I have that exact bug deflector sittng around somewhere.

Could one of your torque converter bolts have come loose?

BTW, this was my last fill up (ouch!)

Ha! Well hopefully it was just an easy fix like that. The plug form mine is missing the metal clip so I have to watch out for that as well. Did it not set an engine light?

Bad/defective part? What brand did you use? I just replaced mine after an ntk sensor lasted only 4 months. Bought it well over a year ago so no warranty. I replaced it with a bosch like factory.

I have never seen any pathy with anything but a 21 gallon tank. I easily fit 75+ liters in mine after riding on empty dorfor days.

Change the PCV again. You never know.

It should read anywhere from 13-14+ volts depending on what you have on. Nothing higher than 15 though. Mine currently dips down below 12 at idle with the rear defrost on. I'm going to swap it with the one from my parts truck so I can warranty replace this one. (again...)

Text me the details. I think I'm free this weekend.