adamzan

The rear wiper relay should be behind the trim on the rear drivers side. I think you can see it if you open that little cover in the cargo area.

I went into one of those places with a ripped to hell cv boot, 2 bad ball joints, sway bar link dangling off the frame, one very low tire, and a burnt out tail light. They changed the oil and I looked on the sheet and it said all those things were checked but they never said anything about them. Idiots.

Do you not check these things regularly?

The set button is making continuity, checked that yesterday. Yes the light comes on when i flick the on switch. The one for when it's set does not come on.

I don't want to say press harder and have you break the glass. But maybe you can move the glass with the controls all the way to one side to see in behind if it is indeed out of the socket.

I have nothing. I checked that little hose that goes from the actuator/pump to the round black thing that the throttle wire goes into and it was good. Even replaced it just in case. I took the actuator pump out of my 93, that I KNOW the cruise worked in, and still nada. You know that little cruise light on the dash? That doesn't even come on when you press set. The actuator pump doesn't turn on. I know the light works, it will come on blinking if you hold the master switch on and the set button at the same time. And sadly, that doesn't make the cruise work either. Thanks for the opinions though.

Alright I finally figured it out. Turns out if the battery voltage drops below a certain point, the alarm will think the truck is being stolen and therefore kill the ignition. There is a series of things you gotta do to make it start with the key again. Kinda a PITA to figure out, but I'm glad I don't have to rip the unit out. I also replaced (spliced in new) some of the wires that had the insulation cracked and coming off. Also in my poking around I've found it has had the timing belt changed by a dealership and the exhaust manifold studs fixed.

Hey guys, my cruise on my 95 hasn't worked since I bought the truck. I drive all highway and it'd be nice to have. I've looked at all the usual suspects, like the brake switch, and steering wheel contacts. They are all good. I've also changed the cruise computer in the rear of the truck, the actuator pump under the hood, the relay under the hood, and even put a brand new steering wheel assembly on. The other parts were all known working off another pathfinder. I've also cleaned up the grounds under the hood. What happens is, I'll turn on the master switch, hear the relay click, and then when go to press set I get nothing. Any Ideas? Everything else works but this. I also looked for a fuse but couldn't find any blown ones. TIA

35? Man that must be a stiff ride on the road. The factory rating is 26 and that's what I ran in the winter because of the pot holes and lack of traction.

B is right. DO NOT TRY TO PRY OUT THE GLASS. You will most likely break it. Are you sure it's the glass portion or the whole casing? If it's just the glass you may be able to pop it back in place but be very careful. The way it sits in there is like this. There are two threaded plastic bolt like things that are integrated into the glass portion. They are used to move the glass with that little joystick thing in the cab. Then there is a socket that it fits onto in the middle. Maybe it popped off?

For the rear wiper, if the fuse is not blown, most likely it is seized. Do what nige said and should free up if you "help" it along. Sometimes if the motor is gone it will keep popping fuses. Is the wiper sitting in it's resting place? Or is it stuck partway up the window somewhere? Also don't force it too much or else you will strip the plastic gear inside, the worm gear on the motor is made of metal I believe.

I run my 31's at 30. When I went on the trail I dropped them to 20.

I'm not sure if your 97 is the same as my 95, but the a/c and fan belt are separate. I have had my a/c belt break once, and the fan still spun fine. In fact I drove it like that for 2 months since it happened in the winter and I didn't need the a/c.

Yes LE was introduced in '94.

I think my dads r50 does this too. It kinda sounds like a small air compressor running. Also will click really loud when you turn it off sometime. The a/c is still nice and cold though...

That is called the torque converter locking up. It will still do it when your not in OD by the way, it's just not as noticeable.

My ground strap is disconnected too, it doesn't seem to be affecting anything. I plan to fix it someday... The shop that did my studs left the passenger heat shield off because where it bolts on was rotted ( i didn't really care). The driver side one is still on though. I haven't noticed any heat differences, other than I now have to be VERY careful when changing the oil lol.

I managed to luck out and get an actual nissan one, not an aftermarket. But this was at Canadian auto parts suppliers.

It is not uncommon for a reman alternator to be bad out of the box.

I would take it to the dealer and have them do it. Screw doing it yourself when someone messed up and should pay for it.

Time to grab a bat and beat said tow truck drive until a new pathy arrives in your driveway.

Yeah I know, I drove for like 70 kilometers on the gas light because no places were open on my way home from brantford at 3:30 in the morning. I filled the tank the next day and it took 77 liters out of 80

Bad ball joints can cause a clunk.

It can also go into limp mode if you were spinning the tires excessively, but judging from where you were, unless you were doing peelouts, that didn't cause it. If the fluid smells burnt change it as soon as possible so things don't start getting cooked. Mine was brown when I got mine and it took 2 flushes to get it back to normal

It's a 21.1 gallon or 80 litre tank. Read your manual.