adamzan

That's about where it normally runs 1/4-1/3 on the gauge. Do you have good heat? If so I wouldn't worry about the thermostat.

That looks great. And thank you for actually masking off the lock cylinders and door handles. Nothing looks worse than that to me lol.

My 1995 still has them, surprisingly, I did replace the bad parts with some new stuff when I replaced the condenser. With a new fan clutch she blows 40 degree air at idle and that is on a 90+ day with humidity. It's colder than most of my friends/coworkers cars feel at idle. Then again when I pulled a vacuum, I went for lunch and left it running for almost 2 hours by accident lol. If I put my hand in front of the condenser I feel a lot of air being moved, then again I replaced the radiator as well. The old one was very caked with mud and debris from over the years. I'm sure that prevented the air from the fan getting to the condenser. The other thing I don't like about e-fans is I have been on the trail where someone's has died after a water crossing. It's just my opinion that the original style fan is more reliable. But this is the r50 forum and I'm getting off topic so...

I would make sure everything else is okay first wiring wise, just incase it was a coincidence. Personally I don't like parts store reman starters, but I don't think we have much choice these days.

It's still miserable with a 3" BL but only because I added headers haha. The Xterra 3.3 starter is smaller in comparison. I wonder if I could just use one of them.

Try hitting the starter as well with the long pole under the back seats (for the jack). And you can also try jiggling the key in the ignition. It is the ignition switches that wear out in these.

No idea about this website, but they are listed here: http://www.megatunning.com/obx-stainless-steel-header-for-90-91-92-93-94-nissan-pathfinder-v6-3-0l-vg30/

If your ac is not working well at idle and you have all good components, you have an airflow issue. The clutch fan when fully locked will pull more air than any electric. Like OP did with the pipe insulation, there was some sort of foam @!*% there from the factory, but it degrades over the years and falls out.

You could also post on thenissanpath, it seems more of them are there.

I would assume the smoke is from the ATF hitting the exhaust. It looks like you have a major seal leak somewhere. I would clean it all off with a pressure washer, then you could start it up and see where it is coming from. Like Slart said it may already be out of fluid though.

The WD21 paint is pretty resilient. I've still got the original black on my 1995 and it cleans up real well. Unless you live in some sweaty @!*% hole like Florida where the sun bakes it off lol.

https://nicoclub.com/fsm

That's what I like about the Xterra, some of the outlets are always hot (like the console one where I leave my phone), and some are switched (the dash one). As for the starter, I've never really had to replace a wd21 starter for actual starter failure. It's always been some small connection problem. Got to love Japanese longevity. I did have to replace the (aftermarket already) one on my 94 after dropping it while the truck was on a hoist for a rear main seal job. Oops.

The only issue I had with your mod, and this was many years ago, was I used a cheap ass relay that wasn't weather sealed. A few wheeling trips and water crossings later, the relay corroded inside and I got stranded 1000km from home lol. Until I realized and just touched the 2 terminals together to make the starter spin

Rockauto appears to have stock type rubber ones. I'd just get those: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,suspension,stabilizer+bar+bushing,7624

I have the same one on my wd21, works great. Plugged right in.

The poly ones never last for me either, in the UCA at least. I'm like Mr_Reverse, I've never had a bad LCA bushing on any of my pathfinders. The 4x4parts poly ones were the worst. I'd be lucky to get 2 years out of them. Luckily you can press in factory rubber bushings into those UCA.

That thing is great shape!

Can you post a picture of what you have? I replaced the one on my 1995 and it was as simple as screwing the old part into the new drier.

That job is next on the list for mine. I replaced the ones in my old truck with polyurethane ones but it made the ride harsh. I'll be going with rubber this go-round. Right now the rear end wobbles when you shift gears.

The original ones would have looked like that when they were new 30 years ago I'm in Ontario Canada, probably not worth the shipping lol

It may be because the replacements have a bolt threaded into where the sensor goes in the pictures. You just remove it to put the sensor in.

That's the wrong way of thinking about it though. If you're going to build a rig from an offroading perspective, you shouldn't look at it from the price you can buy another truck from. If you are building it to keep for years to come, it's a small price to pay. And if you can't afford to buy one after even after saving for a few months, then it's probably not a sport you can afford lol. @!*% breaks and it can get expensive.

That's what I figured, of course the Xterra boards are just full of people arguing it won't work, but have never tried. Yes it is a WD22. I'm surprised being an SE SC it does not have an LSD so it should work in my carrier. I was going to get one for my wd21 but it has an LSD and its too clean/rare to wheel now so I'm just keeping it mint. On sale here too: https://www.justdifferentials.com/PT3220-p/pt3220.htm

I wanted to put the lockright in my Xterra, but they have 33 spline axles. The guy told me it doesn't matter. Can you confirm? (The differential is the one part of my truck I've never had apart lol) https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/powertrax-rear-lock-right-locker-nissan-h233b-4-pinion-carrier-pt-3220.html