adamzan

Any good exhaust shop should be able to replicate your stock tailpipe in 2.25" form, easily.

I drove my old one with "intermittent" no reverse for 4 years. I would do what precise1 says. I would like to add that flushing it with sea foam trans tune did help mine a lot. Never had a problem once reverse was in, just couldn't build up the pressure to engage it because the valve body was clogged.

I used rancho RS5112 for my rear shocks, and 3" of lift. They worked great. I believe the part number for the front is RS5214.

It really isn't that hard to get the oil filter off on a stock wd21. Just reach down from under the hood, takes 2 seconds...Just don't overtighten it. I've never used one of those filter wrenches unless I previously paid someone to change the oil.

I plan on running volt, trans temp, and oil pressure. The factory water temp gauge works fine for me.

I'd put my money on the CL or Idler arm. If you buy a new idler arm make sure it is a name brand one, I cheaped out the first time and it lasted 6 months...

It should be. Can you get a timing light on it and see where it's at on the pulley. I had the same problem with my timing, it turns out I could turn the rotor independently of the gear on the end of the distributor. The set screw was tight but something is stripped inside.

The XE fabric is not much too look at but IMO it is tougher and better if the trucks used as a work truck. I still like my se seats better though.

Just change all the vacuum lines. I did them one at a time so none got mixed up and eliminated that as an issue. Didn't take very long and the hose cost like 2 dollars. Stock timing is 15degrees BTDC. Sent from my BlackBerry 9670 using Tapatalk

I'm willing to bet all that nasty crap is from the condensation dripping all over the leaves and @!*% in the box...

It can on the wd21, the crank pulley and balancer are separate, held together by 6 10mm bolts.

To get at the motor its pretty simple, if you look under the dash there, you'll see its attached by 3 screws with I think an 8 or 10mm head. I also removed the kick panel on the side for easier access to one of the rear screws. Took me about 30 minutes to change the motor. I got the new one from a local parts store, it worked fine except for the fact that instead of matching the factory plug, it just came with 2 wires with crimp connectors on the ends...I would have gone with rock auto but I needed it ASAP.

I had the same problem, of course for me it was winter time and eventually it wouldn't ever turn on and I had no heat. It is a brushed motor, mine were really worn down. Sent from my BlackBerry 9670 using Tapatalk

Check your drivers side strut tower for rust, and your steering parts/tires.

I have this exact problem. Went to put new struts on and the nut fell down somewhere. I like your idea but instead of rivets I think I would weld it on.

That's probably why my gas jumped 7 cents a liter.

They are probably talking about the steering rack bushings, that is an easy job, and I don't think you really need an alignment after doing them unless its majorly shifted.

If you put the Tcase in neutral it should be ok, because only the output shaft of the tcase will turn. The tranny will be disconnected, this is why the truck rolls in P with the tcase in N.

Driving mine to work I average 20mpg. On the way to FL we saw 24 mpg, lowest being 19 in the hilly areas where I was pushing her hard...

Agreed, I've only changed headlights and one taillight bulb in 5 years and well over 400k on my old pathy. I don't understand the concern about power consumption, would you really notice a difference? Maybe if your alternator was weak or something...

With mine I had to solder a wire to the sensor T fitting and run it to a ground point (I used the battery) to make it work.

I love my rs5000s, I know a couple guys around here that bought the 9000s and had the same experience as fleurys. They just don't seem to hold up in the salted road areas. Sent from my BlackBerry 9670 using Tapatalk

They didn't weld the hitch to the frame at the factory, sorry to say.

The PO got it from a JY (another wd21). I know nige had a bare aluminum one like that, this one was painted black from the factory, but it is aluminum as well. It serves no purpose and I will be removing it very soon.

The way your trailer hitch is attached scares me.