adamzan

I don't think I've ever changed a crush washer on mine and it never leaks.

I would change it. Leaking oil ruins people's driveways and it will ruin your clutch. Mine was leaking and by the time I got around to fixing it, it would lose a liter of oil every 1500 miles. I was also worried about it gushing all the oil out. I don't know if this is possible or not. I drove it for about 6 months with it leaking.

I believe the stock pads are Akebono.

Also I forgot to mention if you have a speed sensor code, that could be affecting your cruise. I had this issue as well, on my old pathy. You don't need to remove the switch to test it, just unplug the plug, and make contact with your multimeter. Press and release the pedal and see what happens. X2 on that vacuum hose. Although on my old rig (it had almost everything wrong with the cruise) all lights would come on when the hose was bad, it would just set and then start losing speed.

Which light comes on? The one on the master switch below the vent or the "cruise" light on the dash. If you only get the light on the master switch I would check the continuity of the brake pedal switch for the cruise, mine was failed and even though the rubber pad was there it didn't matter because the switch was broken. If the "cruise" light near the speedo comes on when you press the SET button. I would look into the vacuum pump for the cruise. There is a test procedure where you apply voltage across the terminals in the service manual.

The parking brake to force the LSD to work saved my ass once. But it doesn't always work.

They're a clutch type.

That sucks. But therr are lots of used motors around if you decide to fix it. That is an unusual failure for aVG.

If the damage is located on just one panel, and depending on how bad it is. You may be better off having the panel repainted. But for the touch up pen, you wanna make sure that the area is very clean or else it will rust underneath. You want all the wax off, I use dawn dish soap, it works great. I can live with pinstripes as they are easily removed, but scratches/chips that go to the metal should be taken care of especially if you live in the rust belt.

That is normal...

Pennzoil Platinum is an excellent synthetic. If you don't want to use synthetic oil I would use pennzoil yellow bottle. You don't need high mileage oil unless you have leaks.

Sounds like the common case of "reman gone bad" to me lol. I went through 2 altys before I got one that stayed working.

It rides a lot nicer compared to the 18 year old stock shocks that had over 300k on them! I wouldn't say its any stiffer, it is firm but I find it dampens all the little bumps very well. Shocks don't change the ride height, different coil springs do. I would buy them again. But I won't have to since they have a lifetime warranty. Keep in mind I have 3" suspension lift.

Remember he is in canada like me. Rod, check partsource, but even then rockauto still might be cheaper even with the shipping. I went with the bosch sensor, from advance auto parts. Bosch is the oem so can't go wrong.

What kind of rust does the pathy have? To pass inspection you could just speed screw some sheet metal over the holes.

E brake will only be a concern if you have a body lift as well. You can unbolt them and make some brackets to drop them down. If you don't it will grab the brakes when you flex out. Front end just make sure you lube the UCA bolts well if you live in the rust belt. And if you plan on cranking the tbars high you might need longer bolts that hold the uca to the frame. But other than that it is a fairly simple, unbolt, remove, install, tighten bolts process.

It's a steel rod that is connected with weird looking plastic clips I believe. If you take the panel off you'll see. My old truck was like that and it was some of the plastic parts had worn down. It was pretty cheap to fix.

Discovered my power steering resevoir-pump hose is leaking. Meh.

The alarm going off is probably a flaky door/hatch or hood switch. Seen that happen a lot.

Same here as well. I used the rancho 5000 shocks as well.

Just keep beating on it. It will eventually come out. Make sure to put some grease on there when you put them back in!

It probably is off a tooth. I went through this when a shop changed the belt on my fathers 2000 pathfinder. Same code too. I would take it back.

That's not really an issue for me, since my e-brake doesn't even work.

If you're getting the 91 engine, just be aware that it will have square tooth cam gears and timing belt, vs the 95 round tooth.

That is one of the power steering lines. I would try tightening that clamp and see if that stops the leak.