adamzan

Go here; http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/ and download the 1989 manual. It will have the diagrams you need. It is for the pickup, but the pathfinder is the same.

I have had 2 High mileage pathfinders before this one and have never had that steering wheel problem. I guess you guys just turn a lot LOL. ahardbody, I just might take you up on that lock offer, might see what a local place says first, but rather throw a member a few bucks anyway. I know I have a third key around somewhere.

Yep, the lock cylinder won't even turn. I took the panel off and all the pieces are there and nothing is broken. I think it is just seized. Been soaking it with PB for ages.

Check your room lamp fuse.

Here are a couple threads on the subject that should help: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/24612-how-to-bypass-factory-amps-in-your-clarion-equipped-nissan/?hl=bypass http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35837-how-to-bypass-the-factory-amps-step-by-step/?hl=%2Bhow+%2Bamp+%2Bbypass

I have headers and 2.5 inch pipe. I went from the stock pipes to the 2.5 a while after I did the headers and honestly noticed no difference lol.

That's not that bad . I was expecting a lot higher!

When was the last time it had a tune up.

Yup and I'm pretty sure mine is screwed up or dirty. Guess ill look into it when I do the valve cover gasket.

Yep, it will work fine.

Luckily for you r50 guys the tranny is easier to remove. You could save some labor costs by removing it yourself if you have thr time/place/tools. All you really need are long extensions and a good jack.

Since you have the head off, if you can't find someone to weld it up for you, you could find a good used head from a junkyard or something. I had morons screw up my exhaust studs too but luckily they didn't hit the water jacket and was able to helicoil it.

BFG AT in 33x10.50 would be a great tire for you.

You guys have way more patience than me, I can do most things including electrical, but sometimes small parts like that drive me crazy. I did wish my drivers lock cylinder worked, hate unlocking from the pass side all the time lol.

I had one snap on me. And this is on my second and current truck so I should have known better. The steering wheel wobbled and I had to limp it home from work at 50kmh

It screws on, it can be real tight taking it off for the first time.

I just bought everything from nissan to do the job. It ended up being like 170 dollars but it was done and good to go for another 20 years.

When I bought a moog drag link it was a 555 same with tie rods. Upon returning some parts for warranty they gave me TRW brand and said it would still be warrantied. I was kinda surprised to see 555 on those as well. Never had a problem with quality. I was off-road a lot at the time so the drag links would wear out yearly lol.

Yea local glass places are always cheaper. I paid 300 all in for mine, they even fixed the minor rust they found under it. I got the antenna windshield with the tint strip at the top. They used a pilkington or ppg glass, can't remember.

Ok here is what I ended up with After practicing with the flare tool: The repair: Just waiting on a new flex hose and I'll tighten everything and bleed the brakes. Sorry for the fuzzy pictures but I'm not bringing my good camera into the garage to get greasy.

Sounds like you either need new plug wires, or if they are new they are defective. But glad it's fixed.

Buy a new distributor.

If the bearings look good, there is no need to replace them. Just inspect, and repack them with fresh grease. Properly maintained roller bearings will go a LONG time.

Well that makes a lot of sense, why didn't I think of that lol. Now IMO buying a new stock part is the absolute right way to do this. I can't really wait the week it will take to get from the online dealer, or the 4 days my local dealer seems to take to get parts. JY might be an option if not rusted too much (doubtful up here). I had a gift card to a local store so today I went out and bought a flaring tool. Yay new tools! Also picked up some unions, flare nuts, and lines. NEVER! Yea stainless is out of my price range lol. I ended up getting the kind with some green corrosion proof coating on them. They look like stock lines. I bought lots of line I'm going to practice flaring (its a PITA but I've got a few nice ones). I think I'm going to try flaring the stock line and using a union to join the two, and if I can't get a good flare on the existing line I'll do what ahardbody suggested and use my tube bender to recreate the stock line with the coils. Good thing I already had the bender.

I'm doing some front end repairs/mods to the truck (new UCA's, cvs and ball joints [for who's curious]), and we broke the front drivers hardline. Now I noticed that the brake lines are coiled, what purpose does this serve? I'm sure it is there for a reason, otherwise I would just replace the whole section of line from the master to the flex hose with some universal brake line. So far I think my options are: 1. Buy a new line from Nissan - probably most expensive and I'd have to wait a few days. 2. Replace with line from the parts store - will eliminate the coiled part of the line, which is obviously there for a reason. 3. Splice in a piece of line with a union below the coils and run it to the flex hose - I think this would be the easiest way, not sure if it is the "right" way though. Would love to hear your input on this.