adamzan

Any first gen Pathfinder, hard body, Xterra, or frontier wheels will fit. Supercharged Xterras came with 17" wheels. Probably not hard to find a set of those. The 2nd gen Xterra/frontier like slart said have a different bolt pattern and won't fit. Many aftermarket Chevy wheels will also fit. Be careful with Toyota wheels, you'll likely need different lug nuts for those.

It wouldn't be too hard to delete the sunroof, weld some sheet metal in and finish it off with short strand fiberglass/body filter, then paint. My friend did it on his R32 Golf track car.

You can bypass it with a union, there was a post on it on here somewhere. The dampener is to assist with smooth shifts IIRC. First I would check the return spring on the pedal itself as well as bleeding the clutch fluid. I still have mine In place and have never had an issue. Just replaced a couple bad slave cylinders. If it were me I'd check everything else before hacking into it to bypass it.

@hawairish I just wanted to say thank you for this info.... I remember paying $400 CAD PER SIDE for the parking brake bits on my old 1994 many years ago. And my current 1995 needs a refresh, with the board being down I couldn't remember what year Passport/Rodeo. Got the kit on order so I can finally put the brakes back together. Now if I could only find rust free or new dust shields for the rear. Hope everything is good with you

The early 2000s knock sensors were notoriously bad on the Nissan trucks/SUVs. I've replaced probably 10 on the various Xterra/Frontiers that I and family/friends have owned. You might get lucky but it'll probably come back.

Car parts are such a crapshoot these days.

Did you get it running again?

My parts hoard has saved me several times lately. Torsion bars for my Xterra, one let go. Found I had a nearly new oem set I bought off of a guy 15 years ago who fitted aftermarket bars on his. Perfect, free repair! Fan clutch went on the X, ripped the one off my old 94 wd21 that wasn't that old, it looked the same so I put it on.

I have had this same problem but find it is the brand that makes a difference. That or there is a burr or something on the spindle stopping it. But usually it'll get past the point it's stuck at and be fine.

I was surprised how long the one in my X ran after it ingested the drivers side catalytic converter. I drove it for like 10-20k just having to add a litre of oil every fill up of the gas tank lmao.

I'll be doing mine when I replace the rad support. Might see if ol' daddy nissan still sells em. Had really bad luck with aftermarket parts lately. Also planning on converting my square tooth 91 engine in my 95 to the proper teeth.

I had this happen before too. There seems to be multiple seals listed as cam/crank for this engine. I ordered 2 cam seals and they were different, only one fit. Of course they gave me a hard time about returning the one that was wrong.

Good luck man, I have to do this job on my 1995, luckily I have the whole front clip off right now, easy access!

Take an old margarine tub or something like that and cut the side out, roll it up and stick it into the centre of the seal, slide it over the crank and then slide the seal over it and onto the crank. This is how I've always done them.

Some people do delete the coolant lines to the intake. Where you live it probably doesn't get that cold so it might not matter. My friend deleted them on his rig here in Canada and then wondered why it would run like @!*% when it was -20 and had low oil pressure on cold starts.