Dave_C

You're damn right about the GM cars being a bitch to get to as far as the sixth plug...on my old W-Body...I was about to set fire to the car I was so pissed about the location of that damn plug pssd

There isn't anything I DON'T like about my Pathy at the moment...except maybe that it could have a better cupholder set up But if that's the only thing I can complain about...it's not a big deal...I've added a different cupholder anyways...and I'm completely happy with the truck....it's a hell of a wheeling rig too...I can't say I've been stuck yet, except for driver error (not enough momentum to get up over a certain obstacle....but I wasn't hard enough on the skinny pedal...so I'm all to blame for that one ) I too like the seatbelt clips in the rear, the fact that the seats recline, and the fact that you don't have to remove the lower part of the backseats to put the seats flat down (like you have to in an Xterra...had an '03 X as well in the past)...and yes, all the seats are comfortable, and two adults can fit comfortably in the back with little or no complaint after a long drive.

OK, long story short...I bought a 3" round brake light to put in the middle of my spare tire for a third brake light...I'm trying to figure out which wires in the tail light harness to hook into, so that when I step on my brakes...the tail lights light up, plus this new round brake light I bought. The instructions on the new light are pretty vague. I've got it mounted and there's a red and a black wire coming out of the new round brakelight. I know the black is ground, and the red is the power wire....I took the light bulb housing out of the tail light, and there's like a brown, black, and green wire going into that housing. Any help would be appreciated...thanks Dave.

Yeah, but Chrome Doesn't Get You Home -bounce-

Very true...

I have mine now wedged between the center console and the passenger seat. Does fine when off road, I can still reach it, and it makes it very easy to unhook and hook it back up when I need to take it out of the truck. The mic I have hanging in the blank plate I have above the AC controls (under the middle right vent to the right of the rear defrost button)...Since I have no power options in the truck, I'm assuming on other Pathys, there's some sort of switch in that spot, but not on mine I used to have it in the stereo spot underneath my aftermarket head unit, but put the factory cubby box back in there underneath the head unit now to hold small stuff....so to the current position it went.

Well I knew that I was lacking in mileage due to lift, added weight, etc...sometimes it's just really bad though...I know I'm due for a spark plug change (just been putting it off because I hate dealing with it...not that it's all that difficult, but still), and the filter could probably use a cleaning as well. Thanks!

Damn, reading this thread makes me wonder if my Pathy is in need of a tune up again

I'm lucky to get 250 out of my Pathy...but then again, I've got a hell of a lot of weight in it, and a hell of a lot of sh*t on the roof Plus, I like the skinny pedal. Before modding and adding all the weight and accessories, I was getting about 280 if I was good with the pedal.

Welcome!

Go to Wal-Mart and get the Spillmaster two cup cupholder...it fits nicely between the tray underneath the emergency brake, and the back of the shifter trim...in that nice little 2" space there....that is, if you have a manual tranny of course. I don't know how it works with the auto if you have one. It was about 5 bucks if I remember correctly. My center console lid flip down cupholders are seemingly the most useless invention ever (unless you count that hat with the cupholders built into it and the straw that goes down to your mouth )

I have the Michelin brand rubber floor mats that I got at Autozone..they're deep as hell, already have the holes in them to accomodate the Pathy mat holder doo dad...and come in a set of four...got them for about $30...best store bought rubber mats I've bought yet...comparable to Husky Mats as far as quality, thickness, and mud and water retention. The floors of my Pathy are also Herculined...so that helps a lot too

That's cool....it'll look good. I'm glad I live in a state that doesn't have those pesky tire coverage laws (Virginia)...I'm about 2" past the fenders on mine...but it's all good.

I like my XE...it came with the factory roof rack, spoiler (the one that goes up and over the third brake light), rear defrost, sunroof...but that's about it. I've owned enough old trucks in the past to realize that I just don't want to mess with old window motors and regulators, or any of that stuff...much less an automatic Pathfinder tranny So it's got manual windows, locks, mirrors (but I'm adding power mirrors, couldn't help myself), manual tranny....and talk about bare bones....I've got no carpeting in it at all...replaced with Herculiner front, back, and cargo area...who wants to vacuum after a trail ride? Wash it out, unplug some of the floor grommets, and she's good as new (and yes the ECU is in the glove box). I added the tire carrier to mine from another donor Pathy headed to the parts yard. I don't need all that chrome stuff if it's going to spend all of it's life covered in mud and grime

Hey, sorry to hear about your TRE's...but the rear bumper looks sweet as hell, and those are some great tires! The Pathy is lookin' nice. Do you get any trouble from Johnny Law for having that stainless/reflective strip in place of the black Nissan strip on your tailgate? It seems like it would reflect headlights right back at the driver behind you (or was that your intention? )

I agree with you on not wanting to take something that new wheeling...although there are quite a few guys in the Xterra club that I go wheeling with that have some pretty damn capable '05 and up Xterras that are just simply badass. I have yet to see an '05 or newer Pathy out on the trails, and quite frankly I just don't think they belong there...too luxury for my tastes, but I think the R50s are a good mix of rugged and comfort, and still look sweet when they're lifted and outfitted for wheeling. I wish my Pathy was that comfortable.

The new Xterra and Pathfinder have a frame

Yeah, Moog parts are good...and the best thing is, if you bend 'em, break 'em, whatever...it's a free lifetime replacement No questions asked. So you should do well with those.

That looks awesome! Great job on that...pretty rugged looking.

What I'm planning on doing as far as steering on mine this summer is the L&P Centerlink, already have the IA Brace, and my idler arm is fine, as is the pitman arm...then just getting the Calmini HD Tie Rod Adjusters...that's one route you can go with it as far as mix and match. I suppose I'll beef up the pitman and idler arms when time, money, and necessity permit. Stock tie rod ends themselves are fine for that kind of set up...they're actually very strong...it's the adjusters, centerlink, and the arms you need to focus on. The only thing Calmini uses for the tie rod ends are McQuay Norris ends (which you can order from Advanced Auto or Autozone anyways)...they're just a beefed up stock replacement off the shelf....and it's what I have on my Pathy now as I had to replace my aging ends already.

You know, $235 is a good price for the PowerTrax locker, but please for the love of God, order from someone other than Rocky-Road....Glenn, the owner, is a true ass hat and makes the people at AC, and Calmini look like the poster children for great customer service. I swear to God if I ever run into Glenn in person on a run out West, he's going to regret some of the things he's said to me and other off roaders in emails (and I know of a BUNCH of people that feel the same way)...truly, a guy that deserves to be picking up his teeth with broken fingers (ok, rant and rave over with)

I've had the WARNS on since February, and have abused the hell out of my truck on some trails with them, and couldn't be happier...I've replaced the stock WARN bolts with hex head grade 8's and they're snug as can be...good quality, I'd highly recommend them to replace your auto hubs if you do any kind of moderate wheeling...some will say "why?"...and I usually just say "why not?"

It was lucky for me to be able to use that shop...I've done spring lifts before with my old Wranglers, and doing 4 coil springs in a garage at home is not an experience I want to go through again....and with no coil compressor, yeah, pretty much a nightmare

A CV replacement will cost you around $100 if you get a new one...or you can pull a junker off at a parts yard, but I wouldn't trust those...not the same as any other part you can get at a parts yard. A solenoid is not an expensive part at all, it's the cost of the labor to replace it that gets expensive, unless you can do it yourself. I had my passenger side CV axle replaced...it was $100 for the CV, and $70 to pay a shop to do it. I could have done it myself, but for $70, I figured it was worth letting a mechanic do it, and it went very quickly. Anything that saves me from cursing and getting bloody knuckles, I'll definitely pay $70 to avoid I don't think you could go wrong with that Jeep though, sounds pretty cool...if it's time to let her go, it's time to let her go...mine's got around 156k on the odometer, runs perfect, and has the manual tranny...at around 200k, I'm probably going to put in a remanufactured engine and just nip it in the bud before I run into any future possible problems. I plan on keeping it, so why not?

Mine was somewhat easy as well...took it to the Marine Corps base at Ft Myer, paid $4 to use their 4 post lift...disconnected the shocks, and panhard bar after the truck was in the air...used an axle pole to hold the axle up while those were disconnected...then lowered the axle support until the springs came out...had one guy pull down on one side of the axle, slipped in the lift spring, same on the other side, and it was done in under 5 minutes It actually took me more time to raise the truck, disconnect the shocks and panhard bar, than it did to swap out the springs...if you have access to a local "hobby/auto shop", it's what I highly recommend. We did my body lift there too, and that took maybe about an hour and a half...with air tools, hydraulic lifts, and $4/hour to pay to use all the tools and bay, you can't go wrong.