Dave_C

Aha! Cool, thanks Dan

Looks good Killvox...I did the same to my truck a couple of months ago, with the same stuff and it turned out great. I've taken it off road a couple of times since it was completed, and it's gotten tree branches scraped all over it and the finish has held up wonderfully. Like you, I opted for 4 to 5 coats for strength. I know it's not as good as Herculiner, but it works. I have noticed only a couple of spots where it's flaked and peeled...but I have a can or two on reserve for touch up, so no problems. You did a good job. You can see my work in my signature. I did it on the hood as well to cut down on the glare from the roof top lights.

I've had all 3 mentioned tires (Dunlop MTs, Kumho MTs, and BFG MTs) on different rigs before...if you're looking for that style tire, go with either the Dunlop or the Kumho...almost identical tread to the BFG (except no side biting tread blocks like the BFG has), and a lot cheaper. You won't be disappointed with any of those tires though, whichever you decide to go with. SuperSwampers, don't know...never had 'em...but hear they're excellent off road.

That was indeed what it was Casey T! Good call There's one still attached on the passenger side. This may be a dumb question, but why are those grounded to the body? Thanks again!

I'm heading outside now to see where it could have came from or what it's attached to on the other end...I'll check it all out and see what's what..thanks!

Hey, noticed after all this time that I've got this ground wire (I'm assuming it's a ground wire, not sure) with a ring terminal just kind of hanging down near by steering shaft close to the steering box. It's not connected, and the ring terminal is completely in tact, so it doesn't look like it broke off or was ripped out. Everything on my truck works, so I'm kind of wondering if maybe it's for a model that has power windows, locks, etc....as mine does not. I haven't connected it because I wasn't sure what it was for...it's still just kind of hanging there. I can see it clearly when I look into the front driver's fender well....who knows? Thanks if you have any ideas. Dave.

I've had mine in many different places over the last 6 months...the two best places I've found are wedged between the center console and passenger seat, or under the stock radio like already suggested...under the radio looks the cleanest, but I like it better to my right side where I can reach it easier...and can just throw the mic on the seat while off roading and not have to worry about it.

Story of my truck's life...everytime I touch the damn thing, it makes it worse

Hence the ECU Relocation many of us have done to the Glove Box...do a search for it, and you'll find plenty of info on the procedure...not that hard, about 45 minutes of your time and you never have to worry about a drowned ECU....ever

It's your wheel bearings...I just replaced and repacked both sides with new inner and outer bearings, grease, etc...and the problem stopped. Also, the gas mileage got noticeably better. I had the same exact situation with noises from my front end that you had...replace your bearings, you'll be glad you did...about $100 for the whole job, and you can do it yourself within a couple of hours...it's really not that hard to do. My bearings were scorched from heat from being worn, and the grease that was left in them was an almost solid, black, mucky/sticky substance...not good.

You don't have to cut the whole bottom part out...I've done the relocation, and only cut out about a 3" square in the back of the glove box to fit the wires through...no problems, and no wires rubbing the cut edges either.

You can get a good aftermarket cd player/deck for less than $100 (A Sony model for $99 even has a direct input jack for an iPod in the front), buy some speaker wire, bypass the amps, and be done with it...it will sound better, and you will take out all the question marks.

Nice...and don't forget, it's free shipping too if you use the Buy it Now...that's a good deal as well. Looks good, but I agree that you need to have those D-Ring mounts welded...they won't last being bolted on...maybe for a couple of tugs..but that's about it....otherwise, good find! It's a good alternative to what else is out there, and it ain't much that's out there!

Damn...that does look to be in great shape...even the leather looks good for being 13 years old Good find! Congrats on the new one!

Nah, don't do any fishing...never really took to it. I heard the point was closed off because of the hatchlings...but not sure if that's the case anymore...I know there were a ton of people down there fishing off the Oregon Inlet bridge this past week...so I would suspect that you're good to go...have fun down there!!!!

Who's Pathfinder (90-95) did I see in Avon NC (Hatteras) this past week on the 4th of July? I noticed a nice big 4x4parts.com sticker on the back of it, Red Pathy, lifted, mud terrains, tire on top, etc....sorry I didn't have time to talk, but it was a long night Just wanted to see if it was anyone here...nice looking Pathy Dave.

Are they a "colder" plug that you used, or is it rated the same as the ones you replaced?

Does it REALLY help any to put a SS on our trucks though? Mine drives pretty good with the 32's and no SS...I'm just askin' because I have the stock mounts on the centerlink...

Hey, thanks for the tips....I put the jack under each LCA and raised the truck, took off the ball joint spacers and it was MUCH easier The positive camber is gone, so that was the problem...never going to use those things again :oops: :furious: I figured, "had to try" though...and now I know better Thanks again for the tips on how to get it done easier.

I've got the AC UCAs

88, the t-bars are cranked so that the UCAs rest about a 1/4" off the bumpstops...or, maybe a little more...I can fit my pinky in between the bumpstop and the UCA when it's on level ground...I will definitely jack it up under the LCA though...I was jacking it under the front diff before...so I guess that would have made it difficult then -thnkboutit- I guess I could release some height from the t-bars too, seeing as I'll probably have to fiddle with them anyways to get the height right when the spacers are out....hell, needed another alignment anyways, so no big deal.

I say "why not?" Try 'em out...they look pretty good. Otherwise, you can search local BigLots or a similar discount store...I got "X-Bound" seatcovers for $5 each there..heavy duty canvas material, with all sorts of pockets and such...they work great. You can also find them at Advance Auto, Autozone, Checkers, Parts America, etc....but they won't be for $5 there...more like $30 for the front two...they don't make a back seat cover in that brand

Yeah, body lift is supposed to have 10 blocks...the tires are an OK deal...but nothing too hot of a deal there really. I got 5 32X11.50 BFG ATs with about 98% tread left for $300...so look around and there are better deals to be found.....and nothing wrong with white, as long as you get a complete professional paint job...don't take it to Maaco for the love of God, you'll be repainting it in a year and spending the money again...a quality paint job at a reputible place should run you anywhere between $2k and $3k.

Thanks! That's a thinking man right there I would not have thought of that..good info. I'll try that out this week then...so I'm assuming that these BJS's do contribute (at least partially) to my camber situation being so far outta whack? It's just horrible the way they sit....I don't mind a little bit of positive camber, but it's just ridiculous...so much so that others have started commenting on it I planned on taking these off anyways because of the comments from other guys in the local club that they put unnecessary stress on the CVs and steering when flexed...and God knows I don't need any MORE unnecessary stress on those components

Hey, will the AC .5" ball joint spacers have an affect on positive camber? I've got way too much just by looking at it, but didn't really notice it until I had added the ball joint spacers about a month or so ago. I'd like to take them off, and was wondering if that will fix at least some of the positive camber issues I've got with this thing...thanks in advance. Also, I tried to take them off a couple of weeks ago, but when I had the ball joint spacer bolts out, and took out the spacer...I couldn't get the stock length OEM ball joint spacer bolts back in because I couldn't get the UCAs to drop down far enough so the bolt would catcht the threads. It kept hitting the bumpstops before I could move them any lower...do I have to adjust the t-bars first lower to get that to work out?