nissandoms47

That might be too wide for stock wheels., but you can always try one and see.

Nope, my 96 was an automatic and my 02 is a manual. No problems with the different drivetrain. This will work on VG and VQ series with auto/manual trans. The company cutting all the pieces i need for the lifts will be doing that tomorrow then ill get that shipment and then ill be delivering lifts. Right now im actually working on a secondary shock setup for the front. When im done with my suspension i'll probably be running a custom lower control arm, modified strut spacer and a longer axle for more travel which means ill also need to figure something out for steering. I'll be running the stock strut setup, and bilstein 7100 series shocks on the front and rear. 6" travel front and 12-14" travel in the rear depending on if i decided to replace my rear control arms with custom units. After that ill be working on putting air bumpstops in the front and rear to make those landings a little smoother. And im also working on a way to reinforce the strut body, ive bent struts in the past. oh and some of you guys might think this is cool. uniframe skids, for when just sliders arnt enough...

nope, i sure wouldnt. Also what wheels are you going to get? you need something with less then 3.75" of backspace meaning 3.75" and down numerically. Or else your tire will be all up in your strut.

if you're gunna run just an AT i bet you could get away with a 34/35" tire.

Wait, you're saying your in 1st gear, moving, hubs unlocked and you're trying to shift into 4hi? You cant do that lol. The clicking/grinding sound is your gears not meshing because the front driveshaft is not spinning because your hubs are unlocked. to shift into 4hi or 4lo(2lo) with the hubs unlocked you need to be sitting still.

Man I would just stick with a proven tire, the bfg ats. Besides the MTRs I ran on my white pathy for 6 months and the KM2s that I now run on my black pathy I always ran bfg ats. I've never had a blow out or anything. Very good tires.

Yeah I might end up doing that. I worked out a deal with a company that will laser cut all the pieces that are crucial, like the strut spacers and rear spacers so maybe i can sell the complex pieces and you guys can make the more simple ones at home.

could it be the rod that goes through the upper control arm that bolts to the frame? Where you put the shims to align it correctly? On my white wd that I just bought wrecked, the WHEEL fell off and when the lower ball joint hit the ground it bent the knuckle and the that rod that goes through the upper control arm. So I myself am looking for a new kunckle as well.

Ugh, haha im finding more things to improve with this lift, I figured contracting some of the pieces to different companies with laser table jet machines or whatever is faster and cheaper so I might be going this route. So I might be able to build more. My whole plan is to get all the pieces just shipped to my house, i weld them up and put it all together and then they get shipped to the customer.

Well heres the real reason. Its just not worth it to me. Ill explain everything. I have to drive down to the metal mart store like 20 minutes away and get all the metal, then i have to drive to the tear-a-part and find the exact steering joint and dig through all this crap to get it out, then i have to drill the 1/4" blocks which is the biggest pain in the ass its just not worth it anymore. I owe 4 people lifts and im going to finish and deliver those 4 and then im done building lifts for people. 1 its a huge pita, 2 it doesnt work well with my schedule and 3 who the hell would wait a year for a lift? I commend boston for putting up with me so long. I've realized that I cant really do this part time. Its just too much for me at least. Now if you guys want to know how to build one, ill post up a how to thread. I dont see why it should be a monopoly haha. Boston, yours is almost done, andrew yours is half way, and tekaz your blocks are drilled. They will probably all finish around the same time. SO with all that out of they way, for those who dont feel like reading, im stressing out and cant deal with building lifts. haha. The money I get from it seriously isnt worth the amount of stress i get out of it. So like i said. Everyone shall receive theres in no more then 2 weeks. I plan on finishing all of them by the weekend and having them out by the first of next week.

Well I hate to say it but after I finish building the 4 SFDs that I need to do im done building these things. Its too much of a pain for one to do out of their garage along with a busy schedule, and that job came around too. People who are interested in the future can possibly contact me and I can give information on how one can go along building their own SFD. Its just too much stress for me to handle right now. Maybe i'll get back into it maybe not idk. Just thought i'd let you guys know. The people who i build SFDs for will get theres no later then 2 weeks from tomorrow. Thats my deadline and thats final...

I will when both vehicles arnt going to be used for a day or so.

haha, it can live on a little longer, i actually didnt even make my sig pic. A kid named kris that probably never comes around anymore on AC did it for me lol. I'll update it soon.

As we all know theres like only 2 companies that makes bumpers for the r50, kma,(imo ugly as hell) and ARB (expensive as fskc). Now my xterra has the ARB on it, and im thinking about putting the stock bumper back on that and modding the ARB to fit the r50 with all new custom bracketry. Anyone out there good with photoshop that can chop an xterra ARB onto the front of a 2nd gen r50? 99.5+ If this can work maybe we can start adapting the xterra ARB to the r50s with a simple relo bracket. The xterra ARBs are like 500 less then the ones made for the r50. Alex

Yeah that means that the axle shaft inside the diff is 29 spline and the half shaft is 28 spline out by the hub.

uh they shouldnt be reverse post. The battery is in the exact same spot on both my r50s, 97 Q and my 02 pathy. Same size battery too. well was. The neg should be on the left side and the pos should be on the right if you're looking front to back.

Ive got some 300zx sohc cams in my 02 xterra, pretty crazeeeee if you ask me..it sure does sound mean if you have an intake.

Yep 33s. you should be fine with 4.6s and 33s. What kind of 33s were you planning on?

ya for sure. Have you been yet? Are you doing anything to your new r50?

I dont have a pic but i used the cobra 19 something from walmart radio, less then 40 bucks. Its just the right width to replace the drivers knee fuse box door. Its very tight so it wont come out when you go over bumps but you can still remove it to access fuses.

We pretty much have limited knowledge of the non north american pathfinders. My guess would be that the transfercases. Are you sure that you can use a gas manual transmission on the back of a diesel engine if you just swap bellhousings? You might just have to get a new transfercase.

about 3 hours. 200 miles about. Whys that?

Just to make some cash on the side. I do school full time and don't work yet. So its nice to make a little something. And no one else sells a subframe lift. Its not like ive patented it or anything. Most likely when i'm done with school and have a job this will most likely stop. Now that everything in life is starting to get simpler for me I can focus more on school and this on the side. Pretty much you can think of it as this is my job, building parts for pathys. Right now my R&D project you could say is building a good set of sliders. I spent a long time on the subframe lift. Its kindof hard to explain the design. Overall the design is pretty much the same as any other subframe lift theres just a bunch of small things that are different.

Its easier then you think to install it. You need a good size floor jack, like a 3 ton. And all the regular wrenches and sockets used on a nissan. 10, 12,13(for warn hubs) 14,17,19, 21,22 lol. In your case it sounds like you already have the AC lift so you dont need any special tools like spring compressors.

Yeah im running behind. All I can say is, im not using USPS without insurance and a tracking number lol. The SFD takes like a day to do its not that hard at all. It took me a weekend total because I was designing a new one and putting it on. Since you guys will already have the kit its just basic bolt on. With your pathy tekaz, you've got a 3.3 auto correct? What gearing do you have? My first white pathfinder, i dunno if you guys remember that but it was a 96 3.3 auto with 4.3 gearing and i had 33 MT/Rs on it. It was not that bad. If you have 4.6s you'll be fine as long as you dont cruise at 90 mph on the freeway going to work. My pathfinder even without sway bars is great on the street. Its my daily driver and I love it.