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Everything posted by nissandoms47

  1. The welding is required so the subframe blocks dont "move around". Even with them torqued and i've had them move around even with the holes drilled straight on. What happened on my white pathfinder is the factory nuts that the factory bolts- bolt into inside the unibody the welds broke after some hardcore offroading so you couldn't just retorque them. I had to cut an access port inside the brake and remove them and replace them with new nuts so I could tighten them again. I don't know if anyone else ran into that problem but I also ran into that problem on my black pathfinder with the newest style SFD. I say just weld it for good measure and strength. If you take it off just cut the welds, It only needs to be a couple of short beads, not the whole thing. With that said you should have a solid bulletproof SFD. I never had problems with it on the black or white pathy and I ran moab rim unlocked way back in the day. Its cool to see people finally modding the crap out of their R50s. Makes me start to kindof miss mine lol. Props to everyone here. Miss the forum but titan ftw imo. Welp back to my cave lol. I don't like this new NPORA interface. Maybe take some getting used to. cheers.
  2. I always did it by removing the 2 strut bolts and lowering the spindle/control arm down still connected to the subframe. Trust me I have a ton of experience in this CV changing field lol.
  3. I beg to differ, I still think if you mount it upside down it will reverse the characteristics of the shock. Why else are they specific as to which way you mount the shock. I can see where you are coming from but I guess the only way to find out is buy some shocks and see what happens... lol.
  4. Well I think we can say force #2 is at a fixed point in relation to the vehicle because whats really moving is the axle which would be represented by force #1. There are so many different ways so many different people can look at it. You're right that the oil bypasses the rebound valving on the compression stroke and vice versa, but I think if you mount the shock the opposite way its suppose to, the compression and rebound characteristics are backwards. regardless of how the oil bypasses through the piston. This is kind of hard to talk about so in depth like so because technically you're right about that there are forces on both sides of the shock, no sides are fixed but force #1 is connected to what will move up and down the most. But then you could look at it in a way of the axle is fixed and its the body of the vehicle that in motion. We could say force #1 is the force the compression valve stacks are taking while force #2 is the force in which the rebound valve discs are taking up. I guess to simply what im saying to everyone is that when you mount a shock opposite of how its suppose to be mounted, the compression discs take over the role of the rebound dampening and the rebound discs take over the role of the compression dampening.
  5. I think thats true and also not true. The way I see it is, using the new picture above, The 2 forces are being dampened at different rates. using the 255/70 valving again, force #1 (on the left side of the picture, is getting resisted at 700N at 0.52 m/s. Force #2 is getting dampened at a rate of 255N at 0.52m/s. Force #2 is a fixed point, Force #1 is not. So say you rotate the picture 180 degrees what happens? all the numbers are reversed.
  6. okay, for the 3rd time. when a shock compresses it gets shorter... (thats obvious).. the piston is moving to the right on the picture. The oil is completely stationary minus the small movements the entire body of coil has when the piston is rapidly moving which is cushioned by the nitrogen gas in the gas chamber. The piston and the valve stacks are what slows the shock down. The shock can only work one way. Not upside down, because say you rotate that picture 90 degrees to the left, thats how it would normally sit on a vehicle, piston rod down, body side up. lets say its a 255/70 shock again. when that shock is mounted the correct way on the vehicle like i just said, and you hit a bump, you'll be getting that 700 N of resistance from the compression valve stack through the oil. When you go airborne, your wheel that is airborne will be rebounding with a resistance of 255 N. So when you take that shock, flip it 180 degrees, those numbers are reversed. The compression valve stack is now the rebound stack and vice versa. Does that make more sense? Im not trying to pick a fight im just trying to help you as well as anyone else who might not understand, understand. Technically the shock can work upside down, but its going to ride different. But to have it work like its suppose to, then you'll install it the correct way. unless you need it piston rod side up, then get the shock custom built with whatever compression and rebound valve stacks you want.
  7. Using your logic just stick with some generic shocks if you dont understand how they work, or mount them upside down i really dont care what you do lol. For the 2nd time. Mounting the shock, upside down, in relation to the vehicle, how a normal 7100 series shock would normally sit on the vehicle with the body being on the top and the shaft being on the bottom will change the way the valving is in relation the vehicle, the shock itself, has the same valving no matter what, but if its upside down those numbers will be reversed. Im not saying somehow the internals of the shock change because you flip it upside down, its exactly the same. You're just not understanding.. Mount the shocks horizontally if you want, using a cantilever setup, just make sure its not backwards.. Or if you really really really want to mount your shock upside down, reverse the valving discs inside...
  8. I was referring to how it sits on the vehicle. It'll still have the same rebound and compression numbers but when it mount it upside down on the vehicle then they are reversed... When you mount a 7100 series shock with 255/70 valving the right side up, you have 255 N at 0.52 m/s on the rebound side. And 700 N at 0.52 m/s on the compression side. So when you mount the shock upside down whats going to happen? numbers are reversed which would drastically effect the way it performs. So dont mount your shocks upside down lol.
  9. I dont think those headers will fit in the r50 engine bay, they look too wide.
  10. How'd you come to this conclusion? I never had any problems with my setups..
  11. They could have rotated the rack and pinion, maybe it has soemthing to do with that all those overseas r50 sfd pictures are right hand drive i dont know. Id just stick with the extra joint..
  12. Im not sure if 15x10s with 4" of bs will work since the wheel is wider.
  13. If you do a block spacer and do not add another joint the joint will bind up, i dont think you can even get it at enough of an angle to line up with the crossover box.... You need another joint for any kind of subframe drop.
  14. if you do anything less then 3.5 for a subframe drop you'll run into steering shaft problems. But im sure that can be modified and to work with another type of steering extension.
  15. Go to any shop specializing in hose and they can do extended brake lines for you, You'll absolutely need a new rear brake line but you can get away with the fronts just fine, unless of course you are wanting to get stainless lines then go ahead and let longer ones. The place ive been to before to get my hoses done has been evco- house of hose but i dont know if they are nationwide.
  16. When doing a SFD the rear is the easiest part.. Its things like the angle at which you need to have your front strut spacers made and steering that really get you.
  17. bring it over and i can figure it out.. give me a call.
  18. Replace those with some grade 8 bolts, im not certain on what size they are, i just thought up that idea just awhile ago.
  19. If you mount a specific performance shock like a 7100 series upside down then it wont perform like its suppose to. Shocks like that have specific compression and rebound and when you mount it upside down then those numbers are backwards.
  20. The rear nuts that are tack welded into the unibody frame that the rear bolts go into are pretty weak, the welds that is. The front bolts that go through the frame can be replace with some big ass heavy duty bolts if you wanted, i recommend that. I'll try and take some pictures of what im talking about when i get around another r50. Id recommend this, but you need a bolt thats like 10 inches long lol.
  21. Way back when on my first white pathy thats how the blocks were made, i dont like that design because they are welded together. So then i switched to the rectangular tube design, way easier too but the tops are rounded in a sense. Tightening up the bolts isnt hard, you'll just have to use a wrench or a socket and an extension that goes through the bottom hole then you could use an impact. Driveshaft is fine. Some people have had the issue of the blocks moving around, thats why if you plan on never taking them off again id just weld them on, i welded them to my white pathy after i was having issues and also to my black pathy and never had anymore issues.
  22. meh i dont care, im not really in the mood to sell anymore anyways. Its a pain. Anyway with a subframe drop and say you want a 6" kit using AC lift coils the lift coils give roughly 2 inches. but there is a 2 inch rake, every pathfinder ive put a SFD on using AC coils as well has had a 2" rake roughly. So the rear coils spacers will only be 2" not 4" this way it'll be completely level. I wont sell anymore complete kits but I can help anyone who is trying to build one.
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