nissandoms47

Oh wow, thanks guys. I didn't even realize someone nominated me. I just gave up after the first few trys. Thanks again!

Ive had both the 9000s and the 3000s. The 9000s are nitrogen charged which is a stiffer shock, perfect if you have a soft spring. I switched over to a 3000 shock which is cellular charged which means its a softer shock, perfect for applications like mine with a stiff spring. I run the AC springs on my r50. I love the ride now compaired to when i had the 9000 series shocks. But im thinking about getting some different shocks possibly some adjustable mx-6 remote reservoir shocks. Who knows..

Yeah i still need to get a 1 inch spacer machined so i can put those between the diff and cv to allow the extra travel without breaking the inner joint every time. I snapped autozone cvs left and right, then said to hell with it and bought a used stock nissan one, havent broken that one yet.. Weird i think..

Trannys are the same, tcases are different.

He didn't say he bought a new rack. the front sway bar on the r50 doesnt have bushings on it. Just end links. As for the movement maybe they didnt tighten up something or maybe you're subframe is totally cracked. When i was playing around in moab and the front end got air the struts topped out so fast that it actually tore apart one my strut spacers and ripped apart a piece of the factory subframe that holds the differential on.

Well maybe its the engine temp sensor or something. If you're computer thinks the engine is overheating. It'll have no power at all and wont rev past a certain limit. On the VG R50s when its at the H it wont rev past 2000 rpms. So just a thought

Its probably referring to the hardbody with the 4 cylinder. Lots of the parts lists for that year are combined. Like if you go to pinnacle nissan and search for a 96 pathfidner it'll bring up 4 cylinder HB parts too.

You had a failure light after taking out your airbag? Weird. When i had to remove mine i had the batt disconnected and didnt get a light..

Yeah I took mine out thinking it wasnt suppose to be there like a year ago. No bad effects so far.

I cant stand my truck dirty when its on the streets. Only when I go on wheelin trips like down to moab is the only time ill allow the mud to stay on for more then 1 day. I think the wheel is good but the airbag just stands out too much. but idk..

You cant even pull the steering wheel off to recenter it. Its specifically splined so it only goes on one way. Just go get an alignment.

really there isnt that much thats different. Mechanically the transfercase is different. So you would need to download a pathfinder transfer case section. And im sure some of the wiring harnesses will be different because of the qx4s gauge cluster setup.

Why not start a thread about how much rocky road sucks to you guys and dont hi jack this other guys thread..

Try some seafoam in the crankcase and inside the engine.

You can make new brackets for the canister so its semi out of the way..

Im kinda far from you. Im in north central utah. 30 minutes south of SLC. But we do go to moab every couple months. A friend drove clear from AZ to come wheelin with us in moab last year.

lets go test them out

I hate you. But since I hooked you up with these sliders, does this mean I have an unlimited barrowing supply to your tools? haha

You have 30x9.5 bfg ats? It shouldnt really be off since the stock tire size on a XE is the equlivant to a 29" tire..

I think its still over there getting fabbed up. It usually takes 2-3 days to build a prototype set. And get them powdercoated.

The ones pictured above are 16" wheels.

Maybe a tinting shop?

Mine is a 3.5 subframe drop with 3.5" spacers. the honda joint just barely fits with a 3.5" subframe drop. anything less and you'll need to fab up something different for a steering extention. I wouldnt have a strut spacer taller then the subframe drop as this will lead to overextending the CV and possibly grenading a cv.

My subframe lift survived some pretty hard trails in moab.

I got my lower control arms from nissan at like $80 a piece because i didnt want to replace the bushings and I had one very bent arm. So it costed me just as much as it would have to put poly bushings in them since I would have to have bought a new arm just to put bushings into. I still need to do my rear ucas and my front lcas.