Casey.T

Its almost that easy..... disco the battery 1st, remove the front skid plate 2 14 mm bolts and its loose, Disconnect the Oil Sending Unit Plug, turn the starter so that the solinoid is in the 12 to 1 oclock position(Straight UP) and slide it forward past the Motor Mount, over the Axel(little tight but it does fit), and out over the Center Link... disco the electical connections... 12 min Auto: take out the screws securing the Tranny cooler lines for alittle more flexibility -bounce-

Im ambisiously lazy.... I have considered having the spindles machined on the ends, with a .010" hole going down the center to grease the spindle to bushing area....

Did you have the Calmini's machined and install zerk fittings? I would recomend it, still on my to do list...

for the Spindles :idea:

Auto or Stick?? Auto: Disconnect the Torque converter from the fly wheel and it will come out... 4 bolts through the starter hole. Stick: Drop the front axel

Done that... Make sure #1 is TDC, mark the housing, mark the screw.... Lift it up SLOOOOOWWWWLY, and mark where it disengages.... Now try and copy that on to the new Distributor.... When you start it up you will know instantly... You may have to re-set the Dizzy... we will know shortly after you do it

now you got $.04 Between 3 Pathfinders and I think 5 Starters, one of which i dropped and broke... take it in test it, theres your core for when it tests bad... If its good, $5 says it will work fine once you re-install it and triple check your connections....

I was thinking the same thing....

His problem was on the passenger side though???

I knew I had seen this before..... hastifc sold, thank you mws!

Simon you got your RC's installed yet????

Got a Picture of it??? Did you get the Thorleys for the 87-89 or 90-95??? Still trying to remember who else had this problem, they posted pics and everything....

As you can see... Some people here dont like it. I liked it just for the fact that everything came from one place, One "KIT"... Other than the squeeks I have not complaints... If I were to do this whole thing over again. I would definately consider what Simon had mentioned. To date my SL has been picture perfect

Can you just bend it out of the way... careful not to deform it to much?? Or Re route with some copper/stainless/Steel plumbing tubing... Remove it and use a tubing bender to get the clearance you need??? On my EGR Tube I cut it and put in a 1" extension... Slick and Dave and Allen BFH hers to fit...

Someone else had problems with fitment along the frame rails, I just cant remember who... Nothing wrong with re-routing the AIR tube. I know I found a kit at Motion Auto Parts that was a repair kit for Cat return tubes....

By removing the belts 1 at a time, you will isolate the source... Water Pump, Power Steering Pump, Alty or the little belt tensioner....

Start a new Thread on the Alty, pics before you have, got any of it installed??? And one of the Mods will Pin it

I usually just hang my Keys off of the top rear corner so that it has some outward pressure.... Pop the release, you can hear the keys hit the ground.....

Whats the cost of the new shorts??? $175 thats not that bad... Sucks, but tolerable

So did you also have to change your shorts??? Sucks on the wind shield, I picked up a nice rock chip earlier this week on my 95 pssd

SeaFoam can instructions... Diesle: Clean the injectors quickly buy replacing the fuel Filter and filling it with SeaFoam.... Not exact but Close enough, the last tank I put in the 91 I added 1/4 can of SeaFoam and it appears to be running better, Still have to do the intake and add to the tank on the 95

For Removing and replacing the Crank bolt on a Auto: Remove Starter(2 bolts) Slide it forward about 2", slip a larger flat tip screw drive into one of the teeth on the Flywheel. Turn slowly until Flywheel Locks.... Brake that baby loose, or Torque to MFG Specs.... Remove Screw Driver and re-install Starter... Take 5 min....

Whiteys would not give me just the spidles they wanted to sell me the whole UCA $45 each if i am recalling correctly... The new rear springs may need a little compression, I used a ratcheting Strap on mine, takes about 30 min to do the rear... Took me 45-60 min a side on the front.

Do the Rear Springs 1st... then it will motivate you to do the front.... Did that on my 95, next night I Adjusted my T-Bars, Alignment in the morning -bounce-

Sharp Lookin R50.... How much Rubbing do you get with your 33x9.5's??? I know I like mine