Casey.T

Like 88 said, make sure your heads are good and use the 3.3 block... Kinda wish I had done that... But my 91 will still stomp on my 95 so I cant really complain to much... When I got my new motor I stripped it down, new Head Gaskets, new exhaust studs, headers, and used the intake up from my old motor... Fun little project Took me almost a year to put the extra $$$ into the fun budget...

Access the 4 14mm bolts through the starter hole, you may also need to remove the bottom cover plate between the tranny and motor... 2' of extensions work well and the bolts are LokTited in.....

Nice shinny new ARB... Hide it from Dan.... Ouchy on the T-Case....

Then it would be the exta gunk that the filter is letting through.....

anti-seize them all....

Try and roll it backwards with it in 4L... hell let it idle in 4L and push backwards at the drivers door. You will know the instant the hubs ingage..... at that point you get back in the seat... Also try applying a little brake if only 1 wheel is moving If you have to get a tug.... dont worry it wont be the last time you will need one....

The Pop/KN filters do allow more air as well as impurities through... I know that 48 hours after I clean and re-oil my JWT, I also clean the MAF... Just a habbit I have gotten into to prevent any additional fouling of the MAF...

Thats got to be pure luck you did not bend any valves Glad shes done and running

Use the 6 sided socket.... Plug 6, if you dont have the tool.... 3" extension+Wabble/Elbow+3" extension+ socket...... Someone here posted the set up for it....

hehehehehehe

Codes???

Later :sniff:

New Ball Joints for the UCA's, tool to remove the old ones Its pretty straight forward... Just do one side at a time... May need a torch or press for removing the spindles from the stock UCA's...

Pick up the Thorley's, then you have them with you and can talk to the shops about installing them... If you have them it could make it easier for them to quote you... Pulling and replacing the studs can be a chore, depending on which ones are broken and if they are sub surface... When I did mine I had the engine on a stand

I would also suggest the book... Put in the rear springs 1st, then adjust the T-Bars to match the new height in the rear... drive it around the block a couple of times, make the leveling adjustments then off to the Alignment shop.. If you cant get the ride height you want for the front then re index them...

Last Clutch I did was way soft after replacing... Figured out we did not bleed the system correctly... Dunno, only Nissan clutch I have ever used was on a Max...

STEALERSHIPS!!!!!

for the pooch Simple to replace the rear window, may want to have the Daughter lend a helping hand.... Tweaker Season is open year round and there is no limit... I however did not know it was legal to hunt them with Dogs and Bait... Bastards got what they deserved... I would suggest you include in the police report their attempt to steal you dog....

I just have my internal lights turned to the OFF position... Then turn them on when I need them.... 3 second fix

There was no attempt at Humor in my suggestion.... All animals traveling in a Automobile should be in Kennels... This keeps them safe and eliminates a potitial major distraction for you while in traffic...

Kennel......

The FSM, Chiltons and Haynes have dimensions and angles for setting up the t-bars and the height of the front end to Original Specs(ride height). You however can adjust the t-bars and raise or lower the front end. Any adjustments will require a new Alignment...

Julie, Any new progress?? More Pics???

Break out the Tranny Jack....

You will notice between the 2 motors the new one does not have a tapped hole on the bottom of the oil pump, hopefully you still have the lower timing cover that came with the motor. That also has the 4wd water pump