SteeevO

That still wouldn't take advantage of the space gained by just taking them out.

I just simply hate tents I was in scouts from age 6 - 18 plus family trips... i've spent my fair share of time in a tent. and i actually most commonly just sleep under the stars these days unless there is bad weather. i hate rolling them up, and cramming them back in the bag. dealing with the poles, stakes, dumb rain-flys, dirt getting tracked in, the zippers that break. in my mind there are only two tent options.. the big heavy duty canvas waterproof ones. or a tent-cot. Kamp-Rite Tent Cot Original and i 2nd that motion of the food in the truck ... a bear will rip open your doors. use a bear bag in a tree or a steel bear box.

lol yeah.. it honestly is. which is why i haven't even had my rear seats in over over a year. now i don't even need to dig out the tools to pull the seats out.

Here is a quick step by step that i wrote on how to make the rear seats a quick release and how to get an extra 20" of space for more room to sleep. Quick Release Rear Seat Mod - '90 Nissan Pathfinder

Yup, Thats what JET Performance does

I'll admit.. sometimes i miss being IFS on the trail

i stand corrected on the chromo shafts.

For the rear i figure you can leave the H233B back there, but put chromo's in it. then with the H233B front you will have matching gears front and rear as well. and a heck of a lot less labor into it making the 14B or ford 9in fit in the rear. Also some food for thought on the Front Axle... since we can honestly build a H233B with what ever outters we want, D60, D44, Toyota outters.. So here is a D44 vs Toyota Diamond Axle article: http://www.allprooffroad.com/images/storie...ons/d60vs44.doc

no no check out the the comments in the blog for full details.. the R&P set will be $300 (compared to 450 - 500 from NISMO) the housing will use 3.5" axle tubes with D44 Inner C's & starts @ $900 also building off of the Diamond housing is easier since you can easily weld straight to the housing. you will be able to carry one spare 3rd member and have it fit front and rear. Of course i can't build a H233B cheaper than a D44, but I feel i can easily build one better than a D44 but be somewhat in the ball park. many of these same points have been brought up already in the blog comments so be sure to check that out as well. In your 1500 D44 price what was rebuilt from the knuckles out? and are you running 30 spline stub shafts?

Yeah, if we have the 5.38's made that are also listed in the concepts blog. they will retail for about $300. I personally think that the $100 price difference at that point is worth keeping the H233B and the axle will physically fit under the truck better being that the diff will be offset correctly for our trucks and the caster and pinion angles will be set as we need it eliminating the need to cut and turn the C's

I'd say the wagoneer is currently the best option. it's the late 80's driverside drop D44. The Ford axles are good too but there are no aftermarket chromoly axle shafts available for those. Also the latest concept that i'm gathering feedback for is a H233B front and is listed a here: http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/blog/2009/06...xle-by-diamond/

Bump

nope, that fiberglass is more flexible than you think, i've ran it through trees and i have got it bouncing allover the place for the last 2 years. it's been fine.

just a recommendation, if you are going to have one made or make one yourself. you will be better off in the long run if you figure out a way to lift the axle side track bar bracket rather than lowering the frame side. it's raise the roll center of the suspension system and you should get less body roll.

I've got a list new new concept products post in the Rugged Rocks Blog, You can check them out here: http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/blog/categor...ncept-products/ Your thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated which you can post in each blog posts corresponding comment box. However the HD Links aren't listed yet, We've got two different versions in the works which will be posted very soon. Thanks, -Steven Lutz

^^ Really Good idea.

I get about 21 hwy. yes, as it sits. on 35's

no doubt they work well when tuned but... it's not worth it.. just run a firestick i run the 5ft one and no spring

Dude, You're either a ham radio operator, or planning on working for NASA. Great write-up for those that felt the gust of wind as this flew over their head... SWR is basically a way to measure how much power is going to the antenna and how much is being reflected back. ideally you want all the power going out the antenna and None coming back being a 1:1 SWR. the bigger the ratio, the more power is coming back to the radio, not contributing to the transmitted signal, and potentially harming your radio equipment.

firesticks work best in my experience. banning the whips are for good reason though... as far as SWR... you can have the best radio in the world and if the antenna isn't tuned then.... there is no point.

Mastercraft had faxed me a tracing of the bolt pattern on their seats. Looks to me like you can drill a few new holes and bolt them to the factory rails. But i havent' done it yet... oh but thats for a WD21.. i don't know how different they are for the R50

Shameless plug -> http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com

those doors do keep the original latch mechanism and are above the hips. the these however do not... oh wait... they're gone. on the yota ones. the inside latch get relocated to the top of the door and uses all the same linkage inside the door and the same latch. just like on these tube doors... the latch handle is hard to see but it's right behind the cup holder: same here:

nope, I added another shifter since then:

Toyota Half Doors,