SteeevO

I'm considering getting one of these. I've wanted one since the OP over a year ago.

Lol.. I wasn't trying to write one. I guess i'm just a natural.

I like snow. I like snowboarding. I snow-wheel. Bring on the snow.

no unfortunately not. Original motor needed a top end rebuild after screaming home from utah on crappy gas. it had 336K on it then. The motor i have in there now was swapped in 3 days before King of the Hammers 2009. it has about 250k on it I'll be pulling it out for a 3.3, hopefully after winter.

Coming up on 400,000 Miles. but i didn't have a speedometer cable for a solid year so i'm probably over 400K already.

I just posted on the map, Rancho Cucamonga, CA

I've though about maing an adjustable panhard rod as well as making it a larger diameter than stock. I've seen a few guys taco them. I personally would rather have an adjustable panhard over a drop bracket. the roll center of the suspension system will stay higher (not much but still higher) when compared to the roll center. but not having the panhard level also promoting the axle shift when flexing on the trail. to completely elimite the axle shift. a triangulated 4-link suspension syse, is the way to go. but If we have a few guys interested in the simple solution of a larger & adjustable panhard rod I can make it. BTW, if a mod can split this into a new topic it'd be much appreciated.

10 Nissan's just out for the day? thats awesome. I'd really like to go wheel in WA.

how many rigs did you guys have on this run?

Sweet Pics! Bummer about skulptr's body damage though.. time for some sliders!

I don't have final costs yet but i should have the front axle but i should have it together inside of a month. Yes there are High Pinion H233B 3rd members out there with ratios as deep as 5.13 available but they're currently in Autralia, New Zealand, the UAE and Japan. I'm working on bringing in emtpy HP 3rd members from Australia, and rebuilding them with all new internals.

These links are no longer shipped bare steel. They are powder-coated the same 'gunmetal grey' as the new HD VG30E motor Mounts. I don't have pics yet but I'll be posting them as soon as I get the shots done.

I recently ran 4ga. grounds from the batter to the frame and the body. It helped a lot with alternator whine in the stereo, fuel gauge reading correctly and many other little things. I strongly recommend it.

I wouldn't go with the D44/D60 outers. The D44 is a good axle but the H233B for comparison is stonger. The diameter on the ring gear D44 is 8.5" where the the H233B ring gear measures in reality about 9-3/8" and a D60 is 9-3/4" The D44 will blow up before the D60 outers even think about breaking. If you're looking into building a custom axle, consider a H233B/D60 hybrid instead the first one is almost done being build for me at Diamond Axle, I should have pictures soon. They will soon be available to order through Rugged Rocks It'll be running Kingpin D60 outers, chromoly axle shafts with a 33-spline H233B center. We'll soon have locker options of a 33-spline Lock-Right. ARB already makes an air locker. and we have another locker on the way.. more info on that in a few weeks. Here is a sample pic of a toyota one:

AMSOIL ASL.

There is actually one set of DT headers left for pre '90 3.0 v6 pathfinders. but prices are as follows: DTH-464-1 | 416.95 | pre '90 V6 DTH-464-2 | 403.95 | 90+ 3.0 V6

Lol.. yup. the 3.0 does well. The headers and 2.5" exhaust helps quite a bit. make sure your running good spark plugs, and that you're on top of the general maint. stuff. Running A/T's helps as well. with the coming overhaul of my truck i'm expecting to lose a little mileage. I strongly recommend getting Thorleys. DT doesn't have any more and neither do I but we can get a group buy together and I can have a batch made.

Outstanding! They came out really good! I'm glad they worked out on the R50

On the Hwy I avg 20 - 21MPG Around town is more like 17

x2

Lockers: http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-differential-lockers-c-38_222.html

you're missing the cups that are supposed to be welded on the truck end that keep the bushing centered. some people have welded old bearing races in it's place. I'm betting that would keep this from happening.

I knew what bushings you were talking about just didn't know what ate what. so a compression rod basically got a chunk cut off the end? is that what that small piece is in the middle of the picture?

What sleeve ate through what? I'm a little confused. Either way. those bushings shouldnt wear that fast at all.