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SteeevO

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Everything posted by SteeevO

  1. when you say there is play in the driveshaft do you mean moving it up and down 2 - 3 mm? or by twisting it?
  2. From what i hear, those are the desert runner Frontiers.
  3. did you run the codes on the ECU? It might also me a defective knock sensor.
  4. Thank guys. It's been great being part of the Nissan 4x4 community and helping build trucks bigger and better. Feel free to give me a ring if you guys have any questions or need parts. I don't always catch the questions here on the board.
  5. They are in stock and on the shelf. They are still being produced. ... did i really ask this questions 6 years ago? lol wow. a lot has changed in 6 years.
  6. I don't know if you guys saw my last post ^ I'm trying to help you. it looks loose because the headers don't have a perfectly smooth flange. the exhaust tube sticks out past the flange and only the edge of the each exhaust tube actually seals around the exhaust port. If it's cracked, 98% chance is on the underside of the rear most exhaust port. Check it carefully. it won't be visible from the top.
  7. take a picture from the bottom at the rear most exhaust port. I know there is a bunch of IFS stuff in there but try to get the camera in there. If it's cracked, chances are it won't be visible from the top.
  8. even if you weld it solid you can take it off. just keep it in mind
  9. how did you seal it? I had eventually just welded mine. I'm no longer running the DT y pipe due to the SAS and it's all one piece.
  10. I just did the passenger side last week. it took me about 20 - 30 minutes to install, while talking to a friend and drinking a cold beverage. Just because you can't see the nuts very well doesn't mean you can't wrench on them. do it all by feel. The trick is shorty wrenches. I've done this more than once.
  11. After about 100 miles in driving with new exhaust gaskets, it's a good idea to snug everything up again. if you don't it'll be easier to blow gaskets. The header install really isn't that bad, the trick is to use shorty wrenches. Something like this: and one or 2 of the nuts/studs can be accessed with a long extension and socket through the wheel well. but snug up the nuts. if one breaks off in the process or is found missing it was probably the issue and you're looking at replacing studs and gaskets otherwise it's probably cracked. if it's cracked and you're the original owner of these headers. contact doug thorley directly. their number is: (951) 739-5903
  12. pull it off and check for cracks. i doubt its the EGR.
  13. going wheeling in Big Bear, CA on Aug 28th!

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. SteeevO

      SteeevO

      we're looking at around 20 trucks on this trip in Big Bear and we'll split into a few runs. It would really be awesome if NPORA folks could join us.

    3. unccpathfinder

      unccpathfinder

      you know I would if i could...been an awesome trip every time i've wheeled with you...although moab wasn't so pleasant for my truck

    4. SteeevO

      SteeevO

      We need to round up some new blood here in so cal..

  14. most around here run the stock gearing the on 33's but on 35's you'll definitely want to re-gear. give us some more specs on your truck and we can steer you in the right direction.
  15. I run 12 PSI on the rocks / dirt trails & 10 PSI in fresh snow. I run them on the street at ~25PSI When i was little, my dad used to get 60K+ out of a set of BFG All Terrain tires. but you need to balance and rotate every 3k and be very conscious of your street tire pressure.
  16. if you call Performance Accessories, they will be able to sell you one by itself as well. If they won't do it direct, give me a call. I'll get you squared away.
  17. I'm getting ready to pull the one from my truck, But don't know what it'd cost to send it freight to PR... $$$
  18. x2. on the 3.0 there is a small rubber hose that connects to the fuel rails that is known for leaking. Usually there are hose clamps on there. Just snug em up a bit. It's probably the same on the 3.3
  19. It all depends on what YOU want to do with your truck. a lift and 33's will definitely help on the trail but if you're looking to do some rock crawling, you're going to eventually do a solid axle swap. If you think thats the direction you're going then if i were you i'd hold out on the 3" lift and pinch pennies for a while to save for a SAS. but putting a rear locker in wouldn't be a bad idea being that it's something that will stay in place even after a SAS.
  20. The buggy Gett'n built in so. Cal, The H233B Diamond Axle being complete next week and everything that needs to be done before GONE!

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. Reshma

      Reshma

      seems like SteevO is getting the better end of the deal

    3. unccpathfinder

      unccpathfinder

      Kove...convince the wife that you need to go to GONE lol...my gf is taking care of our 3 mo old that week...she's the best

    4. SteeevO

      SteeevO

      so the diamond won't be making it under the rig before gone... however there should be a few rigs including mine running the new 4-link kit.

  21. Here's the way i did it on the '90 pathy: http://crawlernews.com/2009/08/quick-release-rear-seat-mod-90-nissan-pathfinder/
  22. If you guys decide to switch to disks here is a writeup http://crawlernews.com/2010/04/nissan-frontier-xterra-rear-disk-brake-conversion-2/
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