unccpathfinder

I got curious on the battery box relocation and saw 4x4parts has one as well...

Not really...it was a rock I missed and I didn't even know the damage was that bad until 2 weeks later...I know exactly when I did it but I missed that scar when I was looking on the trail... I just play hard but not as hard as some...after these upgrades I get to play a lil harder

All of these items are things I've found on Ebay that people around here may be slightly interested in so i figured i'd share Turbo....doesnt have any info on application or installation pix but thought it was rather interesting: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Terrano-T3T4-Turbo-Charger-Kit-/270411754904?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ef5cbed98 Battery relocation: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Terrano-Battery-Box-Relocation-Kit-/260474966200?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ca58490b8 Fiberglass snorkel: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Navara-Hard-Body-Pathfinder-Terrano-1-Snorkel-/280524886172?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415096109c

armor can only do so much...remember i still have this to fix and this is 3/8" steel and i'd really hate to puncture a cylinder at 120PSI..although i dont think ti would be in danger there since I also have the fuel tank to worry about...its just better to be safe than sorry but we will see

a RMS is a bit of a PITA...its not that its necessarily complicated to do and pretty basic but it requires a lot of work...here's the basics: 1. set the front end up on jackstands with the wheels off the ground 2. loosen tbar jam nuts and loosen tbars and remove front bolts and drop the tbars with their tension Xmember 3. remove front drive shaft if 4x4 4. remove rear driveshaft from rear axle but leave in transmission (keeps from leaking fluid) 5. remove 4 bolts on torque converter through starter hole, rotate engine from crank shaft bolt (if you didn't take the rear driveshaft off of the rear axle you will roll if in gear 6. disconnect all electrical and mechanical connections from the tranny that connect to the truck 7. use lots of extensions and swivels to access transmission bolts and loosen bolts leave some partially in so the transmission doesnt freakisly fall off and land on you 8. support transmission with tranny jack or some other dreamed up support (i have used 2 small jacks on a creeper and used a tow strap through the floor boardwhere the shifter hole is) 9.remove the fasteners left in to keep tranny from falling...(at this time i forgot to mention the transmssion support fasteners...i typically hve those loose and jack the tranny up a bit and then loosen them out and then push aft on the tranny till it separates from the engine and then jack it down and roll it out of the way. 10. remove old seal with a phenolic tool or carefully with metallic tools but be sure to not scratch up the crank or block where the seal presses in. 11. install new seal..make sure not to loose the spring on the backside of the seal or it will leak...been there done that... 12. put eveyrthing bakc together in reverse order... I've only done 1 automatic so i may have missed some things...it was also an 01 frontier and 2wd. I have done this countless times on a manual tranny for clutch and RMS i guess one thing i missed is you may have to remove the flex plate (make sure you use locktite when you reinstall everything and torque to spec) same with the torque converter

Thanks 87...it can't be that bad or at least not as bad as my projects at work...pics will be much appreciated

I'm not quite sure yet...I might mount it right in front of the fuel tank if I have room or maybe in the cab somewhere...ill just see when the parts get here

Its an angled surface and looks like 4 isolators a bolt and at the seem it looks like it could be the wire bundle?... Doesn't matter to me as long as everything if there and works properly...marketing is a buncha smoke and mirrors anyways

These are one of the high priorities to get installed: Then the next 2 items:

this happened in my 87...i narrowed it down to the connector on the distributor...sometimes if i fiddled with it it wouldnt do its freakshow dance (just bounce all over the place and sometimes just flatline at 0) for months at a time...mine started after i did a top end rebuild

Just an FYI i bet that the diameter of the CV's arent the same...i'd check to see if it even fits through the spindle...

also check the shims on the front brake pads....if they're "glued" on shims they're probably hitting the spindles esp if its a click click click noise...i've posted pix somewhere discussing this

positive terminal to the post on the starter...clamp onto the housing of the starter with the - then you need a 12V signal ot the solenoid to turn it...i used a piece of wire from the + terminal to touch the + wire on the solenoid plug (i know older starter solinoids had 1 post but the newer had 2... be weary b/c i just had mine laying on the ground and it turned a flip

I routed mine down the LH fender and then in through the OEM wire loom...I also drilled some holes here and there...

heres the best shot i have of my hitch but not class 2

Mine used to be so bad it'd hit the side of the fenders BC it didn't have the stops...I just learned to ignore it...

Alright...I've done some searching and can't find it but I swore like 2 years ago someone took the time to create a list of part numbers for urethane bushings both front and rear...I basically need the compression rod bushing P/N's but I may replace bushings all around on the truck... Also if there is a PN for the bushing cups...I've got some work to do... if someone could help it'd be greatly appreciated

Covers the hinge for the rear seat on the floor

http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-differential-lockers-c-38_222.html so no chance of 29 spline either? I guess I should also mention that its a 95 rear end (for those of you who arent up to speed on what parts are what year on my truck)

Alright...I've been looking at a lock right or ARB but I don't know how to determine my spline count without pulling the rear shaft so I was curious if it was possible to look it up via VIN. Sorry if this has been covered before.

I do 90% of my posting nowa days on my Droid running android 2.1 without any problems...when you click on a post and type as you need and then when you hit back it will let you post...so no problems from the droid standpoint...maybe on other phones

From what I measured it should be an m12x1 but hats using a set of standard calipers and converting to metric

You want at least grade 10.9 since they're metric bolts...I need to get 2...I Had 1 loosen up and i laid it on Tombstone at URE and it sheared 3 threads off and put the bolt in yield and gave me deformation...I'd guess that its a M12x.75 or M12x1...I will try to measure a bolt today if i get a chance

Hmm..never pulled TREs to get CVS out...to tighten and loosen at the different I always lock my hubs and use a wrench and spinning the wheel to break them free.

its a PITA...remove the interior door panel...then remove all of the window motors and glass...theres a bolt or 2 on the middle support...remove that then you can put the new glass in...i've only stripped doors never replaced the glass...good luck