unccpathfinder

sweet...thats what i was thinking...just got to be careful not to start without the clutch pedal in gear cuze that could cause a problem....thanks for the response

thats how i did my 350...didnt pull the heads 1st put it on the stand flipped her over and pulled the bottom end to check the rod bearings...then noticed some things weren't right so i in turn flipped it back over pulled the intake and heads... and thats how i swapped the oil pans and pickup on my nissan motor

not really... u can pull it put it on an engine stand flip her over pull thean oil pan and cradle and if u know which 1 it is u could replace it and throw it back together but i dont think its worth it esp if it flattened or ovaled anything else out...

i go 140 a day in my pathy :sniff: yea where i work we're busting ass to try get our chassis to work with the new cummings and mercedes benz engines to meet the 2007 EPA standards...it'd suck to have an 07 diesel right now and the fuel isnt available yet... i dont know if the personal vehicles are going to be like service vehicles but if so and they have the particulate traps and have to run regen cycles i wouldnt want 1 esp if they have to run them every 60 hrs or so of operation depending on the type of driving

while ure that far into it u might as well do a complete rebuild b/c if u need to machine any of the blook its got to be completly taken apart...or should be...and i would rather do it right the 1st time then have to go back a 2nd and blow the $ and time

ok im working with a 95 harness that was auto and im going to manual...what im missing are the 2 switches for the clutch 1 at the bottom of the stroke (assuming start ok sensor) and the 1 at the top (assuming this is disengage cruise). but my 87 doesnt have cruise and it has a sensor on the top and bottom of the clutch stroke... i started taking the harness apart and looking at my 95 manual and the auto harness and noticed that it had a red w/green line wire connecting to the start up sensor so i pulled a lot of the harness apart hoping to find the plug with a jumper which i didnt find... what i did find is that the red wire has a jumper over to another red wire and im assuming this bypasses that switch...any1 have any clues? guys that did a auto to manual swap did you have to include the wires for the clutch sensor and if so was the plug there or did you have to splice in?

my rattle was coming from the heat shield on the pass side manifold...it was so rusted i ripped it off and no more rattle

guy at work said he took his to his old work place and put a 3/4" impact on it for 1 of his bugs... the other he said he had a 3ft breaker bar and a 300 lb guy jumping on it... go to pepboys buy a cheap 1/2" rachet put a 4' bar on it stand on it and if it breaks take the rachet back (or if u have a craftsman that hasnt been beat on with a hammer make use out of that lifetime warranty) the guy at work also said he recalls that it goes on at like 525 ft-lbs or something crazy like that

when i broke my belt i bent the exhaust in # 1 and #3 and the intake in #1...she ran like @!*% but she ran...to trouble shoot either run a compression test on each cylinder...the poor mans way get a good set of insulated plyers and pull 1 plug wire at a time if the idle changes/dies then that cylinder is good if nothing changes then that cylinder is dead... most likely a bent valve...if thats the case u can get the parts and do the job ureself in a day and a half if u've got some help and have a decent mechanical ability... i also have 2 good heads if u end up needing them make an offer and u can have'em if u've got a 4 banger u've got a chain i believe and its non interference...if its a v6 u're mechanic is wrong and i'd change it before its due or get it in writing that if it breaks he'll pay for everything and some1 else to do the work (so he cant shortcut) from left to right...bent bent straight bent

my 95 has some rust where the fender flares rubbed at the base of the wheel wells but i fixed that and its getting a lil in the top of the hatch so its about time to pull that off and paint it... on my 87 i had 2 spots come up around the pass side window then around the top of the rear hatch and along the plastic kick panels but all of that has been removed and painted and shes dman near rust free now

my buddy is going to call me back when he gets off of work...he seems to think his had a carter pin in it? i'd assume u had that out already but if u didnt see 1 maybe its broken off inside of the bolt/spindle (or whatever it bolts too) but he's gonna pull out his FSM and see if it has any tips or pointers

slide a 4-5 ft pipe over the breaker bar...either the bar will bend/break or the axle nut will... if u can put 185 lbs at 3 ft from the axle nut that'll give u about 555 ft-lbs...and if that doesnt break it then...at 5 ft it'll be about 925 ft-lbs and something has to break at this point good luck i'll ask a guy at work if i think about it he has a vw bus and my neighbor has an old school bug so maybe they might know something if i think to ask them...

... drill a hole in the tank if u dont want to wire up the fuel relay u can just turn the key off and on over and over and over and over again until its empty

i think having the radiator out also gives u a good bit more of working room... i actually had 1 of those and it was a lot of work...i ended up pulling the hose off and slipping it over the nipple on a gear oil jug held it up from under the truck and squeezing it to fill it (my roommate got home and was like what the hell r u doing giving ure truck a beer bong)...it worked like a champ...if u wanted to cut corners there to save a couple $ u could always get some hose from home depot or lowes... take your time and just double check to make sure u've put everything back together right and ure torques are correct...other than that its not a hard job just time consuming esp the 1st time...

well got the old dash out and test fit the 95 and it fits awsome dont have to change any brackets (at least for the top half) but i did stumble upon my 1st "problem" the 95 speedo is electronic where the 87 is gear driven...so my plan is to find an extra set of gages for the 95 and remove the electronic speedo (4 screws) and drill a hole in the back and swap over the hardware from the 87 to the 95 but dont want to do it on the gages i have right now b.c i dont have any backups if i screw it up... but the plans are to finish running the harness before the weekend and then on sat bolt on the flywheel and clutch then install the tranny,FA and driveshafts and ohh yea the fuel pump i keep forgetting that...so im hoping i dont hit any major humps and can give her a breath of life once again

how about... I have it and dont use it b/c my last pathy had it and it didnt work so for 8 years i drove around with no ac and i like it that way

yea i'd go with the obvious..all of the coolant hoses, water pump, rad plug, crack in overflow resivoir...etc etc

i've been tempted...but i dont want to destroy my truck...but i bet some carbed cars would run off it...some1 needs to go "test drive" a truck for a weekend and fill it up to see what happens... "i donno it started runnin like @!*%" if anything bad happens

hmm...so make new dropped brackets welded to the framefor the T bars that are shorter and fatter to handle the load (prob possible but not probable) ohh well gimmie a couple of years in industry and i might stumble across something that will open a new door

ahh...so cant some1 make beefier drop brackets so they can be longer?...this lift limitation deal had me thinking while i was bored at work...theres gotta be some way to get more lift without a SAS without breaking the bank

how far is that from radford VA...maybe in 3 weeks or so i might be making a trip there... and precise is correct its not hard...just time consuming...

ok this is how i've thought about getting more lift out of our trucks for a while but never really heard of anybody doing it or a kit that offered it...so i saw it in a mag i think it was called sand addiction but its a pro comp lift for the 04-05 titan/armada...but it drops the front cross member down in turn increasing the lift... all in all i have no idea the dimensions on the titan and armada cross member but imagine that its going to be longer than our trucks but didnt know if some1 had thought about either shortening it or making it work somehow... and if for some reason i missed a member drop like that offered for our trucks i'll appoligize now b4 getting flammed link to lift...but kinda crappy (no info really) but the only way to get more lift would be to make it work somehow with 1 thats available now...

uhh i donno man i bought this truck and this is what was in there...so what would $20 do for me about this lil issue... at least here in NC they're not too crazy yet...in charlotte they're rediculous compared to my hometown (fayetteville) where they never did anything but honk the horn and turn on some turn signals and if ure windows are rolled down its "what tint i dont see any tint do u"

so whats wrong with that??? could u run some ducts from under the front bumper to the engine bay...maybe like brake duct coolers for stock cars but for the engine... or maybe some small electric fans under the hood that run duct work out from under the bay... are there any aftermarket cowl hoods?

didnt know that either...looks like my swap is going to be illegal but they dont smog us or nething B4 96 so either way putting the 95 in the 87 should save me a lil bit...although i am going to place the diagrams under the hood so they match whats under there...if not i can find some1 to pass it im sure