unccpathfinder

have u cranked ure t bars?...if so then ball joints put it in neutral and have some1 push it or find a slight hill and walk on the outside and see if u can get a listen of a general area of where its coming from...just dont put ure ear up there and get run over

also that stupid lil boot on the slave cylinder cuze mine tore and it works but just shoots fluid on the ground until u run out

mz its like ure brakes u have a slave cylinder down on the tranny with a bleeder valve u can either drain it all out that way or you can take turkey baster and suck everything out of the resivoir...then bleed it like u do ure brakes... pump it like 7-8 times hold it to the floor and release the bleeder and repeat about a dozen times or so until the air is all gone (the 1st couple times it might stick to the floor just pull it up with ure hand) i sometimes leave the bleeder open until the fluid starts dripping out (some folks call this a gravity bleed) but usually im too impatient and get down there with my hand and pump it till its not sticking to the floor

ehh the grinding has been going on since my cuz had the truck (so for about 3-5 years) and i've already put about 8k in the 4 or 5 months i've owned it and it grinds prob .5% of the time...i was just curious to see if the low fluid could have caused the syncro's to start going b/c im sure thats what is grinding... but for today i did notice it does in 1st a lot better now although i did manage to grind 4th but i was driving it to try and see if i could get it to and i think that was user error (didnt have the clutch but 1/2 way in) i also know i need to be getting a clutch pretty soon if i blow it up i'll use the 87's tranny

dont give up do what u can to make it operational

hmm will disconnect the rear wiper and swap the lines then hit the washer fluid for the back and turn on the wipers for the front...its a lil ghetto but it'd work for the time being

i believe that is def the way to do it... i was going to suggest if u have the rear washer i dont know about yall but i never use the rear so just swap the wires and hoses and u should be good

well changed all the fluids and was fairly ok with what come out on the magnets no big chunks just some filings from all 3 and no big chunks which i expected out of the tranny since it grinds in 1st and 4th (well not anymore b/c i can drive it wihtout that happening 99% of the time) but i was curious since jiffy lube did the service before hand and pulled the fill level plug on the tranny and expected to get covered since it should have been above the fill plug and nothing hardly came out so i now believe thats y 1st and 4th have been grinding... so what kind of damage could be caused from not having the correct level due to the misplacement of the fill plug (i think they're in the wrong spot on the 95's) its a 1995 SE with a M/T

i'd still say its the idler pulley possibly the bearings starting to rust or something...it took them about a year to find out thats what was wrong with his b/c they replaced everything except for that and finally replaced it and the start up squeal disappeared... but other than that i have no idea what it could be

hmm if it does it for like 1 sec then stops and u have the belts within the deflection you might want to check out the idler pulley if ure sure the belts are tight...my buddy had a rodeo and on damp mornings it would squeal 1 good time when it 1st cranked up then it woudlnt do it anymore...just a thought

thats how i do my 87 since it doesnt have the bleeder valves but a lot of newer cars and a lot of american cars have bleeder valves on the highest point generally at the tstat and somewhere along the backside of the motor

did this start immediatly after the water pump? if so theres a bleeder valve on the tstat housing and somewhere else crank'er up and bleed the air out of it it could be vapor locked (our motors are bad about that)

ok that was kinda my situation all the time...its time to figure it out on ure own (not being negative about it) heres how i'd approach it Things left to do: -Install passenger side inder wheel well (hold off on this for now) -Install radiator support -Install both front fenders (this is not hard just like 10 bolts i think) -Finishin installing main floor (not quite sure how bad they hacked it up but pop rivits?) -Replace back floor (once again a temp fix?) -Replace rear peice... where bumper protects -Install gas tank (easy enough if the rear floor is mostly missing) -Install gas lines (find a diagram and start running them) -Install 2 brake lines (shouldnt be too bad if you have the lines already bent) -Finish painting frame (krylon? or rustoleum) -Paint the truck (can wait a long time mines been waiting 4 years now) -Put carpet in (this can wait as well) -Put seats in (bolt the drivers side in after u get the dash in -Put dash in (get a diagram u can do this in a matter of 3 or 4 hrs) -Install rocker panels (i think they could wait a lil while) -Put front windshield back on (if u have the glass a glass co should do it for like $100) -Install new bumpers (can wait or if you bolt them on take them off for later work) -Install Tire Rack (if the stock holes are there just bolt it on but would wait till after paint) -Fix fuel pump wire (shouldnt be too bad) so pretty much i'd do what i needed to to get it running my approach would be if i didnt have a welder or some1 with a welder either rent 1 from somewhere/buy one and start with some scrap metal and go thru some trial and error then start with things like the floorboard and hatch area bb/c it will be covered with carpet so if the weld looks like @!*% then so what...then once u start picking it up try the wheel well and rockers if not hold off on it and pay some1 to do it but i never welded b4 and i managed to weld in my floorpans in my scout the pass side looked like pure ass but the driver side looked pretty good for a 1st time arounder (if u do install the gastank 1st be sure it has no fumes while welding b/c it might make it go boom) then throw the carpet in and the dash followed by the front glass if you for some then go with ure seats bolt the fenders on even if the fender well isnt in yet it doesnt take long to get those on and off so it wouldnt be a big deal do the brakes and fuel lines and what ever else just to make it drivable and take it as a work in progress u can get it going it might just look like crap for a while but when push comes to shove you gotta do what you gotta do even if it scares the hell outta u and when u look back u'll say it wasnt that bad and be willing to take on the next project

can u measure the glass? or and measure the whole and leave like .25-.5 inch difference in the diagonals (for .125-.25 gaping on each side) and if they're the same or close it should work as long as the glass isnt too big...if it is just duct tape it on and until u can get to a glass shop and they could prob cut it for ya

well thats good my dad did on some home improvement stuff and the guy did it half assed and left hot wires laying in the attic which shocked the @!*% outta my moms electrician friend when he went to cut it out after he hit the main breaker b/c the guy ran it strait from the powerlines but i feel ure pain...just dont give up it'll all work out in the end...that sounds like crap that happens to me

yea i wacked it a couple of times and did no good... ok i'll try that 88...looks like that'll be this weekends project

that sucks...im sure as long as you have the title to the truck and what not you will get it back b/c i dont think the landlord could withhold that b/c it wasnt their property i would try to find/contact the landlord let him know the deal and he might work with u on getting out knowing u got screwed too.... lesson learned: never pay some1 up front in full and have good references if at all possible (although this sometimes doesnt always keep u from getting stuck b/c people do things that are unpredictable) hope u get it all worked out

is the ticking right under the shifter area...i have a leak where y comes down from the pass side and is leaking directly under the firewall somewhere not quite sure i think a flange bolt broke off but really havent inspected it... my 87 had a broken stud and leaked from the time i bought it (6 years ago) but after i replaced broken studs with grade 8 studs from napa and they didnt break over 2 years b4 i broke the motor but the manifold was warped and still leaked ... and my 95 has had the leak since i've owned it i really need to take care of these things but i never seem to make it to the exhaust leaks just everything else how about open manifolds? if i can ever get that stupid starter to work or replace it thats how im going to test the 87 motor b4 ripping it out for the 95 swap...if it works i'll let ya know how loud it is

bump any clues?... i might just push it down the hill pop the clutch hope it starts if not then i guess i'll be dragging it back up the hill with the other pathy

but you can still push it down a hill and pop the clutch to crank'er up?

to be honest theres nothing you can really do to be theft proof...keep receipts on everything and keep it up to date with ure insurance company (esp on the electronics) and possibly get it appraised so in the event that u do get broken into you can get the $ to replace it... i also have pictures of everything thats in my truck IMO the more precautions you take the to prevent a break in or things to get stolen the more damage that is going to be done while they remove it b/c where theres a will theres a way

put a light trip switch in the back of ure gages...so when the speedo passes 30 mph it shuts it off then when it comes back down it turns it back off or maybe a contact on the needle with a contact track all the way up to 30 mph but nothing after so while it connects (below 30 mph) its on and over u have a break in the circuit and its off... find some sort of viscous or air lock type fan clutch and use that

im going to attempt 95-87 buddy is bringing 2 full sets of guitar strings to get the old glass out...this should be interesting

damn man that sucks...sounds like my luck...junk yards are usually open on sats

k swapped batteries in my truck and the 87 and it didnt crank up my truck...showing 13v but guess it doesnthave the amps anymore so i threw my battery in the 87 and the same thing....turn it to pos 4 and click im not sure whats going on