unccpathfinder

do u have pictures of ure heads?...i know i broke 1 at about 50mph going up hill and hit the clutch which i think saved me...i ended up eating 3 valves but it didnt mess up the heads or pistons that was a result of not chaging the TB when i did the w/p b/c it only had like 10k on it and i didnt know that antifreeze broke down the belt's strength so it took 3 days to pull the heads and rebuild the top half with 1 day of down time in waiting for the correct valves

u'd be just plain crazy to not do them at the same time....its not a huge job if u have the ability and tools (timing light, harmonic balancer puller)

wheelmanLS1 has front and rears from a 95 they're really clean (im helping him with the part out) i could take pix if ure interested and its the split back seat shipping would be from 28262 u'd have to PM him about a price just took pix i'll post them later...theres 2 small stains in the front seats but they should easily come out with some resolve and/or a steam cleaner (my 87s were coffee stained and i used a bistle and they came out) and the back seat has 1 tear but other than that they're good i'll try to post pix in a couple hrs added pix

insurance dropped it off the other day...saw it today looks like it was a damn nice lick...had to move it to calm the parking situation at the house with the roomates and there is def no movement without the bumper/fender rubbing my roommate was interested in buying it but i'd rather help ryan part it out than help him fix the body work...plus it'd be nice to havea whole parts vehicle but i have too many other projects so i figured he helped me make some $ i'll help him make some and finish up my 87 build now i think the maxima motor is being yanked (that was a waste of $500 but i'll crank it and get video of it running so i can try to sell it) and we're gonna try for a EFI swap with his motor b/c i like the power pickup it has over the TBI

i know i used an 86.5 maxima for my 87 and the heads are the same u just have to swap pans dipstick oil pickup and brackets...i still havent cranked it (due to lack of funding) but everything went together and botled in and turns over great by hand the onlything i did do is swap my intake in for the maxima's intake...some maxima's have a different snout lenght on the front of the crank but u can take a quick measurment to see i also had to use a h/b 2wd water pump b/c i couldnt swap out some plates and what not on the front of the motor but it all worked out the same

i think carbide would be u're best bet b/c the extractor should be hardened and a drill bit iwll just get hot and dull make sure to use plenty of cutting fluid

i donno much about this problem in our trucks but in most cars when its doing that isnt it more than likely a U joint having slop but yes i would most def check the mounts my moms old achieva did that but its FWD and a motor mount went bad but u know the motor is oriented with the wheels so it rotates with the wheels so i donno how it would react in our trucks the way the motor is oriented

go to the shop...ask them to put it on the lift take the mechanic that did the work point up to the tranny area where its leaking down slap the guy in the back of the head and say ure gonna really hate your life now you get to pull all that @!*% back off and replace that $3.99 seal...dude that really sucks but congrats on the cast off

im going to call them and check...i dont mind stripping it down and all the parts can chill in the garage for a month or so and throw it on here to see what people want and if it doesnt go we can try ebay and then if not it can go to the trash we could strip the whole truck in less than 2 days esp if i buy the motor and ecu and harness for the 87 it'll pretty much have to be stripped anyways most jy's i know of wont take a car if the motor/tranny is missing so i figued FOILS (metal yard pays pretty good for metal and know they do pickups so if they would pick it up but if not then a saws-all would cut the body down enough to take it down in a truck and the frame would be the only thing left and that can be handled (maybe some1 with a bad frame whose close would want to come and pick it up on a flatbed to replace theirs) but i'll do some calling around to jy's and foils and see what the deal is and then when u find out all the details just gimmie a call and we'll go from there (im leaving tomorrow for the beach until next sun b/c i gotta get some fishing in B4 entering the "real world")

this is very true even if it was just for looks i think over time those tabs would become weak from vibrations and if u got in a wreck it'd do a lot more damage than without it i think the 1's ive seen mount to the frame where the tow hook mounts and i've gotta buddy who had a blazer that had frame mounts and he nailed some old lady and it didnt do nething to his truck b/c of the guard but totaled out her corolla i'd take and cut those 4 tabs off or use them if u'd like and make a bracket to mount it to the tow hook bolts to the 2 vertical posts on the bullbar part of it

u could always fab up some brackets and make it fit

when u texted me after u confirmed it wasnt our brake job i was like ohh hell some1 didnt see his tail lights hope he doesnt get a ticket but they weren't that hard to see and i think it'd be good to drop it here at the house i have to call foils and see if they'll pick it up for free (they might even pay u for the frame and body but i know everything but the metal has to go which isnt a problem) and if u decide to still part her out we can strip it completly of everything in a weeked and tag it and store it in the garage...just turn the driveway into a pathy chop shop (always wanted to do that )

k thanks for the tips ill try it but that square is pretty crunched up ohh yea i have splinters all in my arms from yest. i'll see if i cant grab a pic today it looks pretty rough but i did some froogling and ebaying for him and we got: front bumper reinforcement "impact bar" front bumper cover condensor latch support bracket all for like $350 with shipping so that wasnt bad at all so hopefully that all comes in by monday so we can have the nose looking good and then go with the hood... he was so pissed cuze he just got the car about a month ago and it was perfect but i told him it coulda been a lot worse coulda run it down the pole or busted the radiator but what really messed up the front bumper was the curb other than that where he hit pole it popped out and didnt even scratch it but it folded it under and popped it on the corners

ok so my buddy just made a huge DOH and put his camaro in a light pole (hes a good drive just an incident of forgetting to turn traction control off B4 dicking around) so he dinged up the front bumper cover front impact bar and hood we've ordered everything but the hood b/c he doesnt have $400 for the hood and got everything else fairly cheap but theres like a 4"x4" bad spot and its fiberglass so the plan is to attempt a repair with fiberglass until he can get a new hood but neither 1 of us have worked with it before...my plan is to take a dremel and cut out the bad area and sand around the edges to get to regular fiberglass as a bonding surface i want to build some sort of mold probably out of clay or paper mache to get an overall patch contour of the hood then once that is set graph it in to the hood is this an acceptable way to do this or is there a better way? like i said neither 1 of us have delt with this B4 and just looking for some advice it doenst matter if it looks like crap it just needs to look better than what it is i did use search and found that useful page on making speaker boxes but it never really addressed filling in with exhisting fiberglass

thats a good thing right there...when i broke my t belt the gf at the time her dad was a cw5 pilot/mechanic since the army really doenst have pilots... out of all honesty depending on the conditions u were driving under and whether or not it is automatic or manual u could prob do a top half rebuild a lot cheaper and less time than a full swap...i know we just pulled my heads to see what the deal was and saw no piston damage except for 2 marks where the valves hit in #1 and #3 so we replaced all the valves and got a top half gasket kit and had it runnin in 2 days with misordered parts (gave us a 1 day overlay)... i can say if it were me personally i would check the damage in the motor 1st then go from there unless u have the time and $ to do the swap i broke my belt going up hill at about 50mph and hit the clutch as soon as it died but good luck with whatever u do

well in the porcedures it says to torque to like 75? ftlbs to seat the bearings and i figured its pretty tough to measure that with a punch/screwdriver that dodge tool (take a locknut if u can to measure and see that its the right diameter) was like $5 at advance and it took me like 5-10 mins with the dremel to cut it down im the master at shortcutting but i'd hate to have to go back and redo all that stuff so i just spent the $5 on the locknut tool and for a cheap torque wrench pepboys has a pretty decent 1 for like $20-25 and i forgot to mention for that bearing packer u'll need a grease gun theres a small 1 u can get at napa for like $10 that did the trick or u can pack them by hand but that sucks and is a lot more messy and i forgot to mention when i pulled the oil seals out i took a screwdriver and cut a lil groove down the outside edge of the old seal and removed it with plyers be careful to not ding up the hub...to install the new 1 u can lay the old 1 ovr it if its not trashed and tap it in lightly with a hammer or i ususally take a piece of 2x4 and place that on top of the new oil seal and tap gently in a cross star pattern checking to make sure it goes in evenly

notta problem...if u do decide to replace the outter wheel bearings i've yet to see any place that has the right inner diameter (autozone and napa's were incorrect)

nah not hard at all just a lil intemidating the 1st time

its not hard at all if ure mechanically inclined... u will need the following tools: ~spindle locknut tool (i used a dodge 1 from advance autoparts and cut the extra 2 taps off and shaped the last 2) see below ~a spring scale (i use a digital fish scale) ~snapring plyers or patience ~wheel bearing packer makes life easier parts u'll need are: ~possibly wheel bearings and races (but most of the time they can be repacked and are good) ~outter oil seals (and inner if u want to pull the spindles off and do those too) ~rotors and pads (obvious) the steps are: remove wheel and jack up vehicle remove locking hubs remove 2 phillips head screws and use either locknut tool or punch to remove locknut (u might want to bust loose the spindle nuts that attach the hub to the rotor) remove hubs and spindles (if u didnt break the spindle nuts loose u can always use an auxillary car to back over the rotor and break them loose if a vice is not present) pop out oil seal repack bearings and apply grease then reinstall everything

ahh....well u pull the inside 1 off then pull off the 2 metal clips on the inside right?

i almost forgot with it off it gives u a great place to store oil, pws fluid, brake fluid etc

its pretty roughand looks like crap...but i dont really care how it looks...its gives it character i thought about sanding it up and painting it to match the interior and cut some plates as fillers but didnt really know how i was going to attach them and make it flow without looking like poop so i decided against it if i start feelin better i'll run out and take a pic this weekend so u can see it...but right now im lucky to get out of bed...and i have a feeling after 2 3 hr finals tomorrow im getting strait back in bed...spend 4 years in college and never get sick last week get the flu

sounds good...sounds just like mine but u dont have the massive exhaust leak which makes it a lot better...at about 3k in 3rd or 4th gear it matchs up pretty nicely with a dodge trucks sound

yep thats what he called it

watched a presentation on hydrogen fuel cells and it was crazy what they were making things out of them with...mainly a lot of lap top batteries and what not but i think the car deal is interesting and the guy addressed the safety issue and it didnt seem to be the whole "hydrogen bomb" deal in a wreck we could just start giving horses steriods and get back on the horse drawn wagons