unccpathfinder

i actually heard some things about if ure over 55mph close the windows and use ac b/c ure drag increases to the point that it affects milage and below 55 use the windows but

my buddy has a friend who has a trans-am who wanted to get a daily driver b/c shes got a lot of hp and what not and her bf's dad had an 89 pathy that had just been sitting in the driveway with absolutly nothing wrong with it he just got a new car to drive and wasnt driving it...so she was joking with him about buying it and he said "hell get me a 6 pack and its ures" damn y cant i be that lucky i'dda bought him a friggin keg...

i did have that happen before the slave cylinder boot busted so it was shooting brake fluid everywhere until it ran dry and the pedal stuck to the floor...but i would think if its been leaking that much it would have ran out by now but maybe not

i mighta missed this...but did u not replace the rear main when u did the whole swap... if not it sounds like ure learning curve is about like mine...very expensive b/c i always do some shortcut or dont think about something and it ends up costing me twice what it should where r u located?

theres a write up somewhere of 1 in a HB and i think 4x4parts have the relocation mounts for the motor..in the write up it said something about a low profile starter, dist., hugger headers, and some other stuff... sounds to me tho that it would be a lot easier to pull a body off of 1 take ure measurements have some1 fab up a tube chassis/frame with roll cage floor panels and all that good stuff...that would allow the body to slip over that and mount up....i guess kinda like a monster truck deal where u can change diff body styles but its all the same "truck" pretty much

well i'd agree with that...and buy/rent a tranny jack do not i repeat do not try and use an engine hoist thru the floor it works great till it gets in a bind then pops up and busts the front glass... then u have to catch a ride to the grocery store for more beer so u forget how stupid u were for not being more careful a shop/dealer would cost a ton on labor but if u can do it ureself i'd recomend doing: get a new clutch (if it has been a while since 1 was installed) resurfacing or getting a new flywheel and theres prob some other stuff that could be done during this whole deal assuming this is manual...i donno what the whole deal is on automatics i'd imagine it would be a lil simplier but maybe not

i know this isnt a suggestion a dad wants to hear but... tell her to take a hot friend or a couple with her and make them wear a low cut shirt and short skirt to counterballance the out of state tags and with a lil flirting they might could get a cheaper price...this should work at a mom and pops type muffler shop

talked to my friend and she couldnt remember any indepenant places off the top of her head heres a link of some places u could give a ring to if u wanted http://yellowpages.charleston.com/Mufflers...Exhausts.q.html

gyees...i thought 100 with cat muffler and all the piping was bad...it was nothing fancy just some stock parts at the exhaust shop back home.... the semester is almost over...is she driving back home for the summer break? if so i dont think it would mess nething up if she drove back you could fix it....but i donno how bad it is...if its a hole or if its hangin off or what...if thats the case tell her to get 1 of her guy friends if she doesnt feel comfortable doing it tie it up with a clothes hanger until she can get home i have an old friend down there and i donno if she knows an exhaust shop but i'll shoot her an email and see if she knows of any places

ohh yea..i forgot the driver side cam seal was leaking as well...

if u smell it and it makes u gag its gear oil and it could be front diff, tcase, tranny... check valve cover gaskets mine was leakin a lot from there and then blowing back on the rest of the underside of the motor this was also in my 87...i used to leak on hte driver side back corner towards the fender but when it was leaking right B4 i broke the motor it was the top corner under the dist. and it was leaking a lot like a good silver dollar after 5-10 mins of idling

did u check to make sure the timing belt is still intact...i would suspect it broke or something to that effect...after u get the parts it can be done in about 8 hrs or so

yea if u pick up a lil tub of grease ive got the gun to put it in and the packer it makes it a lot easier than doing it by hand i could even take it to ure place depending on where ud wanna do it but i shot ya a PM...gimme a call and we can talk about it a lil more if ud like

true...just not as easy as most cars/2wd trucks

never done ball joints...but im not scared to try nething...do u know exactly what it entails doing the ball joints...if not i can read the FSM and see what it calls for...i do have airtools at the house but no welders or plasma cutters if thats involved the rotors and brakes wouldnt be that big of a deal i've done it and now i have the hommade tool to do the locknut and what not...just lemmie know cuze i know that $300 is a good bit of cash unless the rents are throwin it down then drop the truck off and i'll have it all done by mon morn for $200 but depending on how hard the balls are we could just knock it out on sunday for nothin...and if we decide the balls would be too hard (hm that dont sound just right) but they still had some live we could knock out the rest and let ure brother worry about the balls later...just lemmie know...im fixin to do some readin on it to see if it'll be probable

train horn all the way... but that means a lil more than swap but it'd be bad ass

wheelman if u want u could always swing by the house or i could swing by ures and we could knock some of that stuff out...i've never rebuilt calipers B4 but it cant be that hard...also pull-a-part has cheap crap up on tryon and right now they have: Make Model Year Row NISSAN PATHFINDER 1987 98 NISSAN PATHFINDER 1987 128 NISSAN PATHFINDER 1993 100 NISSAN PATHFINDER 1995 108 BRAKE CALIPER $9.29 just shoot me a PM if u want/need some help this sunday would be good 4 me but sat i have to take the fundementals of engineering exam so i'll be takin that damn thing from 8am-5pm

yea thats the sending unit to the light on the dash... i found out on my 87 if you jack up the front of the truck and then jack up on the oil pan a lil bit and pull the front skid plate you can slide the starter out of the front with a lil turning and holding ure mouth the right way

ouch...heard these had that probelm but the only rust i seem to have is in the bumpers at the mounts and right under the battery...think some1 took it for a dip in salt water but the rest of my frame is good...hope u can get it fixed without breaking the bank too bad

ahh good stuff wasnt really sure of what it did guess its a good thing its still intact...although i like getting in some american muscle that smells like fuel just something about the cars

i dont believe its who makes the parts...i believe its who designs the parts

notta bad deal then

i used napa caps and rotors on my 87 and it worked fine esp since both were about done in my truck i dont see y the quality would be that much different...and y pay them to do those 2 u could have them done in about 5 mins

spoken like a true engineer... so question about this canister if i dont have to pass emissions and could remove it...could i possibly increase gas milage without hendering the trucks operational ability

so thats what that thing is...uhmmm worst comes to worse couldnt he use an extension or an extension with a u joint...but i've never had problems changing plugs on both of my vg30s...i donno how diff that is tho but being a mechanic i think he should be able to get it