unccpathfinder

pictures from yest... as you can see i had plenty of room to not hit the glass the way i had it initially set up but i think what happened is i had jacked up the tranny and it was in a bind or up against the frame or something and when i moved it i think the engine hoist jumped up a like 3 ins or so and gave me the awsful crunhing noise

well as most have prob read in my other topic...i busted up the windshield yest...and theres a junkyard here thats freakin awsome i can go get a front window for $28.28 i just have to pull it myself...and i just checked their inventory and they have an 87 and 88 pathy as well as 2 86 hardbodies.. www.pullapart.com the website they've got a couple of them on the east coast its my fav junkyard

yea thats what the gf said...it was working fine and if the splines would have matched up i woulda been done cracking noises yea they have the adapters at northern tool for like 40 but well see and heck yea Go Panthers!

well today just sucked...i forgot to put the back plate on so after getting the clutch flywheel and tranny under the car i realized it so i had to take it all back off and put it all back on... then i tried my engine hoist idea which was freakin awsome and everything was lined up except i couldnt get the shaft splines to match up and slide all the way in so i was maneuvering it under the truck and keep in mind i told myself dont move the hoist too much or it'll get close to the windshield and this will be bad...well it got close and somehow or another it released some pressure and sure enough the end of the hoist breaks my front glass...so in the process of slinging everything in the garage i busted an air hose luckly i have another 1...so tomorrow im going to go buy a transmission jack windshield and the rest of my parts and hopefully be done with my truck... i'll post pics of the day later on sometime after i cool off and take them off the camera but till then football and -alcohol-

ohh yes...i hope it works out as planned...i forgot to take pix of the come along on the hoist with the jack...but yea i dont have a tranny jack and really tight on $ right now so the engine hoist is gonna have to be the ticket... i helped a guy do a clutch in like a 92 in a parking lot and we used a tow strap thru the doors and down around the tranny with a person on each side to lower it down slowly and lift it back in that way that was crazy...i feel bad for that guy tho cuze he didnt have air tools to help him break some of that exhaust apart

got the front axle in as well as the short block b4 it got too terribly windy and cold...tomorow is putting in the tranny/TC and hopefully the heads and intake...i'll take pix of it esp cuze i think i have devised a plan to do it all alone again...i shoulda taken pix today of the axles and motor cuze it involved a jack a come-along and the engine hoist and i cant really explain how i made it all work out but i had a system goin on...but i think tomorrows will be awsome...its gonna involve the engine hoist going thru the pass.side door...

well here goes nothing...i hope everything goes a lot better today than last night...the heads were a PITA last night...nothing wanted to work right the spring compressor kept on slipping and all kinds of stuff a good tip that i foudn was take a socket and hit the spring a good 2 or 3 times to break the collets from the valve spring loose...then i always use a good magnet to pull the collets out...and an easy way to get the cam seal out is to break the rear cam bolt loose and thread it in a bout 3 or so threads and put the socket on it and tap it with a hammer and it'll push the seal out far enough where u can hook it with a screwdriver or pliers and easily pull it out i'll give an update later on...its been 60 all week and this mornin its 40 this morn with a 25 mph sustained wind with gusts up to like 40...so this should be nice and chilly

i was kinda wondering the same thing but i thought it was a part i just hadnt heard of...

well the guy in charge of our shop is good with all this stuff i'll prob ask him about it tomorrow he's about 65 but damn if he cant machine almost everything and anything... i'd assume the surface is some sort of HSS and then i could prob use 1 of our CNC lathes to make the cut at the right speed as the diameter increases....but if he doesnt have time to help me with that i might just pay for a new flywheel and core charge then practice on my old 1 and if it turns out good i'll save it for later or sell it on the good ole ebay or something

i havent measured to see how worn it is but i do know i didnt have any chatter with my old clutch... to check for warpage could i mount it to a lathe and spin the chuck and visually look for warping or how would this be achieved and since im teaching a sophomore machining class...i havent ever turned flywheels or brake rotors but i dont see where it would be any different than truing it up on the chuck and turn down a couple thousandths of an inch as long as within the spec listed in the book but i guess i could just throw in another $80 and get a new 1...i dont have to worry about cores or anything like that my parts guys are good to me and know if they didnt take it i'd say screw it im going somewhere else... once i was doing a radiator in a camary which the oil cooler line stripped off and he didnt wanna do a defect swap for me and i was like alright i am no longer interested in this radiator i think im going to advance and he was like the new 1 will be here tomorrow This crap is killing my bank tho...i wish i was back home where i get the at cost prices

go to a junkyard and pull some tow hooks off of a pathy and mount them in the stock holes... and possibly build something like the ARB's just with ure own twist or taste for ure truck...

theres not any grooves on it and it seems that the guy before me replaced the flywheel wehn he did the clutch... you can see where i got it hot a couple times but i didnt know since it was still a smooth surface without grooves if it needed to be resurfaced or what

pull a plug and place the wire on it have some1 turn it over to see if its sparking?

i said paint it blue again just b/c of the door jams and what not wouldnt prob be done at a $600 price and i picked that over leave it be b/c if you want to paint it i guess there must be something thats not shown in the pix to want it painted

if its still making lots of noise mine had some how scarfed up some leaves and then some rubber piece i guess it was some sort of flapper fell down in there so i pulled the fan out of the bottom and all that crap was in there and it was like 10x quieter than it had ever been since i bought her

well 1st off i just kinda thought i didnt really see where what year model and motor u have...i've got a vg30 motor which is an interference motor i belive the 4 bangers have a chain and arent interference but could be wrong when i broke my belt i bent 3 valves which meant i had to rebuild the top half and it cost me about $300 to do it myself b/c if u dont tear up the heads or shatter a piston u have to buy a engine gasket set valves and the timing belt which is like $20 or so as for the marks the cam gears will have a dimple in them and on the top right (driverside) and top left (pass side) there is a bump in the rear timing cover the crank should have 1 (my truck didnt have 1 so we made 1 after we set # 1 to TDC) but all 3 sets of dimples/bumps should line up at some pt it might take a couple revolutions with the crank to make it easy if u can figure out the position of the rotor in the dist cap the marks should line up when cylinder #1 is suppossed to fire ::edit:: saw its a 96...and i also saw on napa it was like $50 for a timing belt for ure truck...im guessing its still an interference motor but dont hold me to that...and i'd still wait around for some other folks inputs on the whole timing belt thought b/c i still donno how probable it is and im sure some1 knows more than i about this

thats what the timing belt looks like well to check the belt u need to pull the belts and if u have a tensioner pulley the bracket for that and then theres like 6 or 7, 8mm bolts that hold the upper timing cover on...pop it off and if you dont see the belt or the belt has slack in it this is bad but if not it still could have skipped a tooth and i dont really know how to tell ya ot check that except to pull it all off and check the marks on the cams and crank... if you have a FSM or haynes or chiltons read up on that about it a lil bit...but i'd also wait to see if some of the more knowledable guys on here have an opinion about it being a timing belt

i might would pop the top timing cover off...if the rachet got in a bind it could have snapped the timing belt or possibly made it jump a tooth? thats prob not the case but if it was me that would be what happened cuze my luck stinks...hope ya get it figured out with minimal damage to the bank account

yep thats the way i look at it...more than once they're goin to the trash

alright well yest. i got the motor out along with the tranny, transfer case, and front diff...so i havent torn down the motor yet but my theory is from the pic where #4 has visible damage to the piston and head i belive it flattened (so i got the hammering noise) the rodbearing for #4 which would be on the pass side of the motor when the crank is BDC for #4 and i also found some metal in the mesh on the oil pickup but anyways i'll post a couple pix of the operation got the maxima motor up here and took the intake off and realized b4 i got it from the yard to check to make sure all the plugs were in...with my luck 3 were out...since the 86 maxima has the same heads as the 87 pathy i didnt have to pull them but since those plugs were out i did to make sure nothing was in the cylinder...im glad i did cuze there was some trash in there but no rust (very pleased with this) so heres the maxima torn down on the stand with the pile of maxima parts then started taking my motor down in hopes of finding something top end...not the case i posted the damage found earlier and talked about it so here are some pix of taking her apart Finally got the tranny front diff out of the way and the motor out and everything halfway orginized in the garage im gonna work on getting her all back together this weekend...so more updates will come then but so far everything is swapping over smoothy

well i've been around plenty of shops that use the goodnuff policy ...i'll use it to a certain extent but not the extremes i saw...the valve covers being 1 cuze i dont see trying to put an adapter on a torque wrench to strip out a phillips head...but as far as engine internals yes i do those and on the driveline with a lil bit of threadlock but one question for all...esp after the technical engineering aspect after the bolts are torqued to yeild they shouldnt be reused...how many folks reuse these bolts...i know i have reused my head bolts which is a big no no in lots of peoples books and could cause me problems but i did that before i really knew about all that good stuff...

do u really have to pull the spindles cuze i know when i was doing the auto hubs to manuals i accidently pushed my cv out the back...and if u disconnected the propeller and slid it down couldnt u just pull it back from the underside and then slide the new 1 in and then up...maybe it was a freak thing but i dont think it'd be too hard or time consuming as long as u have pulled parts of the front axle apart B4

BFH (big friggin hammer)...i always just put it in gear tighten it down and then take a breaker bar and a hammer and hit it a good couple times b/c i know mine spins the way that if it vibrated it would tighten it instead of loosen...but theres no easy way to torque it to exact spec...

yea well we thought that but after the big ole mishap i said we're boing by the book... esp cuze i cant drop the tranny yet due to those stupid exhaust bolts and really it seems like it'd be faster to do the propeller shafts and diff but it'll be a pain to get back up there but we'll cross that bridge later haha... this has been a learning experience but if it goes in and works i think i can do about anything...im have faith in my mechanics but am really cautions and hesitant about doing things i've never done b4 but this time i really dont have any mentors cept yall folks and my bank wont allow some1 else to do it so im off to attempt it but i think it'll all work out in the end

well today was a very unsuccessful day...torsion bars gave me hell as well as the exhaust front tube (impossible to break loose)...also i think heman bolted on my rear driveshaft b/c the airgun wouldnt break it loose after an hr of soaking in wd41 so me and a buddy used 2 breaker bars to break each 1 loose...so we got the motor and tranny unbolted and a buddy helping me agreed with me in thinking u didnt have to drop the diff to pull the motor which i was going to do since the bible says so but he was like nah its fine so not only did it make some bolts hard to get to it also stopped the oil pan from lifting out so the motor wouldnt come out..so after many loud obsenities we called it a night tomorrow after my 2 classes im skipping out on work coming home unhooking the front propeller shafts and dropping the diff to lift out the motor and if we have time im going to drop the tranny and roll it into the garage b/c it will prob be next weekend B4 i can attack this thing again and dont want moisture to get to it too bad