unccpathfinder

my 1st attempt at that turned out not so great...the guy i had gotten it from had amazingly crossthreaded #6 pretty good and the plug wasnt even 1/4 the way in...luckly with lots of time and easing it in and out i got the threads worked back out and it went in just fine...but i dont like changing those back 2 plugs they're just a pain...

yea i live like a quarter mile from school so with gas and the $250 parking pass and lack of parking near the new engineering building (bout a mile from the house) i just bought a 100 bike and ride it out there so pretty much i only drive for beer runs and wheeling which the trail i ride in town i can almost throw a rock from my backyard and hit it... any1 ever heard or restore? a buddy of mine throws it in his van and siad it stops it and he does it about every 3 months...im not a big fan of throwin stuff in the motor cuze sometimes that makes it worse than what u had...i think i should just let it till its burnin all the itme or a majority of the time and not just a puff here and there (dont wanna be too big of a pollutor) just gotta decide now if i wanna sell my trailduster (or even better put the pathy body on there if i cut down the frame) buy a mazda 3 or something cheap with good gas milage...make the pathy the rig then decide if i wanna mess with putting the 350 im in the process of rebuilding in her or in the scout as originally planned... but getting rid of the pathy is not an option im keepin her forever

haha i thought u were meanin my motor was in the middle of the deal of being done haha... thats cool is that the 1 in MD?...im just gonna keep on drivin her till they go completly cuze right now im not noticing a significant drop in oil plus im not driving more than like 100 miles a month so it'll be ok for now but not really sure what winters gonna throw at me b/c i think the cold weather always makes stuff worse on my truck

whats that mean...im FU..................done? ....i really wish she wouldnt have done this right now...

did a top half rebuild about 3 years ago...so i was figuring it wasnt the valve seals...but that would be awsome...i've got 250k did the rebuild at 225 when a timing belt broke... yea i've dropped an email and left a message on here about that other motor but no response yet...

alright its finally confirmed....the motors blowin blue/grey...doesnt happen on cold crank or warm crank only when the truck has sat at idle for a lil while then hit the gas and it smokes but not constant just a lil puff... im thinkin rings whats every1 else thinkin?

i donno the diff in the 88 and 87 but im pretty sure its similar and i didnt have the amp...but its a really big pain ot change the speakers out...not rally a big pain but it takes time cuze almost every body panel has to come out and i had gotten an amp already not knowing if i had factory amp or not but figurd i iddnt cuze all i had when i got my truck was 2 4.5's in the back so i just ran all new wires it took a couple hours of course we were drinkin beer and shootin the bull... but IMO i'd just get an amp and rewire everything while ure at it to get the sound your lookin for instead of going back later and makin it better good clear up 88

i've got the 5000's and they're kinda stiff on the back end but perfect up front IMO...my buddy has a honda passport and he put kyb's up front and something else in the rear and we do a lotta fishin on the coast in his truck and when u get where theres lots of cross ruts with consecutive bump/humps he bottoms out way too much and i think its a more crappy ride then in my truck...i got used to the stiffness really quickly the onlything is people dont like speedbumps if they're sitting in the back seat b/c i sometimes forget about them being back there so they get jared pretty good

did you just adjust anything on the drums? b/c sometimes in mine after i do work on my drums the light will stay on for a lil while until it wears in the shoes i guess...but i know a guy that has a 95 hardbody with the 4 cyl and ever since he had the truck so he just put black electrical tape over it so he doesnt have to see it at night

in my 87 i put the rancho RS5000 and it was good up front but the back is way too stiff since its so light...i would say the rancho's are alright up front but i'd go with a much softer shock in the rear maybe something like a billstine but not sure how those ride on 4x4's but know they were sweet on my buddy's trans-am

pulled the column apart today to try and figure out wiring in the bump switch for the starter...on the ignition i know u have 4 posistions, the 4th being the relay and starter and the 3rd being the ign so i havent figured it out completly cuze im not a big electrical guy (thats the roomates job) getting better but not at the level that i trust myself yet and dont wanna fry something...so i unhooked the starter wire from the harness and in fact the starter wont go on now but u could still hear a relay kick in when bumped over to 4...so i unhooked the relay wire and everything else still works fine as it should if the ign was set to 3(acc) but the relay above the fuse box would still click... i didnt understand this b/c i have the starter and relay wire unhooked...so whats left is the bat + in, ground and the ign wire which turns on when the key is set to pos. 3 in acc...(all checked w/multimeter) so my roommates been busy all day and this was just a quick 20 min mess around with B4 the race and panthers game came on...but i have DPDT momentary bump switch and just curious if i could hook up the relay wire and starter wire to it and everything work out even tho i dont know y that or how that other relay clicks the wiring diagram didnt help out too much b/c the wire colors are wrong and the fuse that was suppossed to diconnect the starter didnt break the circuit cuze she still cranked after the fuse was pulled... im sure im not looking far enough outside of the box or just missing something really simple b/c this shouldnt be that difficult

brakes are a good thing...i lost a master cylinder 1 day on my way to school...all i gotta say is im glad i have a manual...cuze i had 0 brakes...that sucked really really bad...drove it the next 4 days till i could get parts and time to fix it... my brakes are actually puzzling me...they'll get soft randomly and if its left over night or something the peddle is firm as if it were pumped while the car was off...im guessing i get condensation in the system when it starts cooling off b/c if i bleed them i'll get that nasty greyish water in fluid to bleed out...but its just got me puzzled cuze it ususally happens on season changes and im not loosing fluid anywhere

haha...congrats hope u dont have to experience any bangem uppers...cuze those suck esp when its not ure fault and u get the ticket cuze ure the 16 unexperienced driver going 0 mph sitting in the left turning lane and get hit head on 5 days after u bought ure truck grrr...

can they be rekeyed...b/c i really dont wanna have to deal with an extra key for the doors...cuze i have too many keys on the ring as it is

laminated(so it cant be ripped off) buisness card with the same message on both sides...with a string attached through the loop hole and drop it over their antenna...then have something written fairly big that they will notice while pulling it off so they dont just throw it strait ont he ground or ball it up...they have a better chance at seeing the words on it...just a thought

noticed tonight when i crank up the ignition sticks so that the starter doesnt disengauge until i bump the key back to the "run" position...im guessing this is a sign for a new ignition or.... could i get a momentary switch and clip the "ign" wire and run it to that so when i have the key in run i can bump the switch till she cranks up?...i dont see any problems iwht it but i donno if its been tried or not...any thoughts?

i've got that on the pass side...it doesnt look broken but if u look very carefully the corner in the back broke loose so at certain resinences (sp) it'll rattle...that or it could also be ure cat...

yea man they sell those things at walmart for like $15

sounds like my hubs...they'd slam mostly in snow when they'd finally catch...but it got to where the pass side would grind and i just recently switched over to warns if u go with warns...DO NOT use the studs they send b/c they WILL break...i bought grade 8 bolts from NAPA and used those with some mild locktite and it worked out great...and watch the torque on the smaller bolts...they WILL break havent had a chance to test them out as of yet but they worked great while the truck was jacked up...

i used: 4 12 ft 4x4's sunk at 2 ft 2 4x4x8' for the front and rear cross supports couple scrap 2x4's to make the verticla supports scrap picket fencing for the bottom braces 2 2 ton boat winches (the reel type with the 3 in straps and hook not shown in pix) these pix were using a come-a-long and some rachet straps to hold it in place...but this is now how it was done to actually remove the body due to the safety issues....it was just 1 of those deals where i finally got it all up and wanted to see if it was gonna work...but the next day i went and got the boat winches and drilled a 2 holes in the center of the front and rear cross 4x4's so the u bolt would go thru and the winch could mount so the handle could be spun to allow it to be cranked up...did the front and rear a little at a time...very sturdy wouldnt even budge..and didnt concrete in the posts due to the fact that my grandfather wouldnt let me....

if im not mistaken i think the owners manual talks about that cuze i did that at some pt and time when i 1st got my truck...actually i think my mom drove my truck without tellin me and she got cuaght cuze she moved the wheel and couldnt get it back so left it all the way down...which im much taller than her and couldnt even sit down in the truck...so after some questioning she fessed up and i figured it out...

the top 1 is both hubs...(set) the bottom is one hub....(single)

always used reg casterol 10W-30 in mine and i dont have any problems with it...no leaks or nething...except sometimes in the winter i get a drop or 2 from around the oil pan but nothing when its warm out...if i dont drive it for about 3 days i might get a little lifter tick but thats gone in about 5 secs...havent switched over to high milage and dont plan on it...cuze im a pretty big believer in if it aint broke dont fix it...

if that were my rig...i'd have to get something like this.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BIG-MONSTER...1QQcmdZViewItem

they're warn hubs