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Everything posted by unccpathfinder
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i've got an 87 and until its warm it'll idle at like 2k and when it starts getting warm itll go between that and 800 until its warm and then it stays at 800...i asked my buddy about it who owns a junkyard and he said every nissan truck he's had (that was manual) did that so i donno? i've always assumed it was just trying to warm the motor up faster and once it was warm it'd kickdown
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im actually getting ready to do the same thing and i havent measured but i have a cobra and it wont fit under the radio so i think what im going to end up doing is putting the cb on top of the radio and move the radio to the bottom i'd just have to make some custom brackets... heres a pic off of a diff forum
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take the flares off?...im actually getting ready to put mine back on the 95 i just bought...umm the only thing i could say is load it down and try to see where its rubbing and maybe take a cut off wheel and modify them? or get a lift if u tow a lot u might could get some stiffer springs or what not in the back?
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i'll see if my neighbor still has his up and see if he'll run it for ya if i dont get back with u just PM me cuze i mighta forgot about this thread
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heres what those rails look like that i have... i dont think it'll work for ya tho...the injectors look pretty different... i also have the distributor...dont think that'd work for u but it also had the wires chopped when they pulled it
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if its the same fuel rail thats on an 86 maxima or lower or upper intakes i've got those if u'd like em they look similar in the pix but i dont know if their the same and i need to get them outta the garage i was gonna throw it all on ebay but if its something htat u need and would work just throw me shipping and i'd send it out...but i did forget u've got ure old motor so that should work i found a good way to get out those old broken exhaust studs is to soak them in pb blaster and/or wd40 then get an screw extractor set from napa or a local parts store and drill it to the appropriate size and hammer in the extractor and take a pair of vice grips to bakc it out i've had to remove about 7 studs like that between my 1st upper rebuild and this maxima motor i got for the swap... i think i've finally mastered removing broken studs
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Good Luck...after this weekend im gonna let my truck sit...really i think i just need a battery and to put oil and coolant in then cross my fingers and crank but im gonna hold out for a couple weeks...im getting a 95 from my cuz...she lost her job and finally wants to get rid of it (really wish she woulda decided this about 2 months ago so i coulda bought hers and worked on mine on the side) but good luck hope it all goes well like 10x better than mine did and just as a backup throw a case in the fridge or a 1/5th in case you need to chill out for a bit...
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i think u could grab some from a junkyard...or possibly the stealership...i actually just cranked mine today but it wasnt really a crank per say when i pulled them off for the motor swap i marked them and rotated back 1 spline (2 was way too much) i forgot earlier what it was but i think most people refer to that as reindexing them and then cranked them up so they were in the crossmember and it set the front of my truck back level...i think its easier to adjust the front splines than the 1's that go in the cross member if u'd like depending on what year u're truck is i could snag some bolts from the junkyard here and ship'em out but it'd prob be the weekend B4 i had time to do it b/c my truck is still dead and im so busy between work and school during the week but if thats a thought just shoot me a PM
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clogged cat or muffler?
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i might be mistaken but the 4 bangers arent interferance motors are they? i hope im right on this b/c i'd hate to give false hope...if thats the case then u can get it knocked out pretty quick prob like 4 hrs if u take ure time
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thats awsome good luck with the install...hope it goes better than mine did which i plan on finishing this weekend for like the 4th weekend i think
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sounds like a pretty sweet deal...does the warranty cover things like a timing belt break and/or the accessories or u should prob switch some of that stuff over...the 1's i looked at the waranty was kinda shady and seemed like they really wouldnt honor anything if it broke
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i did have a votlage regulator go bad...and my dashlights/headlights and what not would get brighter with acceleration...this is bad and im pretty sure on all of our trucks the VR is built into the alt. so changing the alt will fix that...on a side note advance autoparts alt's suck really bad and i went thru 4 in a matter of 6 months and took it back told them it was a POS and went to napa and havent bought a part from advance since except my warn hubs...
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thats what i said...this whole deal has made me even more broke
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i'd check all the connections...+ and - battery connections and connectors to make sure theres no corrosion as well as connections at the alternator and starter...did u check the battery with a multimeter with the truck off and on? b/c if the trucks on u should have somewhere along the lines of 14V if its less than 12 while running i'd replace the alternator
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i feel u're pain but luckly i can walk to school and work...i hope you get something worked out with minimal impact on the bank account
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ohh yes this sucks...i feel ure pain but there is always a way to make things work it might cost a lil extra or a lil more work but it'll be ok...on that note when i crank mine up after this swap this weekend i might have a diff outlook but thats cuze i have bad luck and it'll always be thata way...but im sure u'll find a way to make everything ok...just dont get too discouraged...it'll be alright in the end
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also if you plan to use the snorkel to its fullest i would probably highly suggest relocating the ECU or building a box to seal it as well i do know our motors will still run if its not completly submerged in water...i changed my air filter a while back and noticed a good bit of mud stains in the air cleaner theres no doubt in my mind that she drank some water but i'd guess it either evaporated as soon as it hit he cylinder due to the heat or wasnt enough to completly fill the cylinder and didnt fire the gas but just shot the water out of the exhaust but any who im def thinking about doing the snorkel deal after that happened just gotta find a fender at the junkyard so i can remove it if i'd like for daily driving
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alright well i didnt know some people ask rather than search so i was just throwing it out there really quickly and saw it on the bronco site and figured the FJ was somewhere along those lines and from the diagram there and others it seems like it'd be hard to explain but glad u found out what/where it is
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go buy some glow in the dark paint...make a stencil or carfully with a fine paint brush go over all the markings u want to see nah i donno what to tell ya...get a 12v light and splice into the cigarette lighter and somehow incoorporate it in the old illumination doo dab or create 1 up... im sure u can come up with something
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http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=bell+crank+bushing http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product.php...2846de166dcfdb0
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yea...i really couldnt explain how it works...its got some foil looking stuff and a bulb or something to that effect...just take a peak and see...i wish i could explain it better but i'd suspect the newer 1's have led's or maybe a couple of bulbs...i have an 87 and i know its the same up to at least on a 92...maybe next week since my dash is mostly apart i can take pix if u'd like u can actually kinda see it in his pic #2 its the clear/silver looking thing
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?s bout the cheapest way to mount a winch
unccpathfinder replied to a topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
a home built class 3 front reciever that could mount to exhisting tow hook holes with the winch mounted to a reciver that u can remove if not in use...i've seen them down on the beach esp for rod/cooler racks but i've also seen some done with winches...and i like this idea too b/c you can always throw it in the rear receiver and pull ureself out that way too winch plate and a hitch just a thought i dont really know what it'd cost for the bull bar but i think this way is cheaper esp if u know some1 that can weld we had some rod racks made with receivers and hitch for like $100 -
i've got some off of an 87 if ure interested and they have the same dimensions/ # of teeth...im not home but if ure interested just PM me and i'll take pix and make an offer but i dont think it looks too bad...
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well congrats and good luck on getting it back in yea usually after i get done its about a dozen or so but sometimes i have to break into during project to cool the nerves or as my mechanic buddy says to "get my mind right"
