unccpathfinder

i dont think u will need new shocks unless they are worn out....

wheelman had them on his 95 auto with no fit problems...i transplanted that into my 87 (manual) and its pretty close to the frame on the pass side so i will need to make some mods there i believe if the floorboard starts heating up but other than taht they fit nice in his 95 and my 87

ive got an 87 and a 95 with absolutly no rust on the frames...i do always wash the under side nad have undercoated my 87 and always wash out the inside of my frame rails after every wheeling trip and every now and then when im just washing it to make sure its draining properly... but 900 seems crazy...i mean yea i'd drop the tank...take measurements and get to supporting/cuting/ and welding

my locks were acting goofy and quit working and then 2 days later the driver side handle came off in my hand...i've replaced it (PITA with big hands) and i havent had any issues...i think the linkage was getting stuck b/c the handle was slowly failing to stress fractures and was jamming up the locks so they wouldnt work or possibly a shorted door switch?

is there a performance issue...i dont see dumping the $ into a nissan engine with 200k...its just getting good now...i'd try to find a JY engine and try to build that up to swap later...but its pretty expensive for the entire kit if u do a complete rebuild

yep unscrews...u gotta heman it cuze between the heat and everything they're on there pretty tight...

a small trailer?... we found 1 for cheap and it wasnt a boat trailer but we'd throw it in that ratchet strap it in and tow it behind my dads like 84 celica when i was growing up... u can usually find or build a small trailer for cheap

if ure near NC i still have a frame...u can have that or we could cut out what u need to weld up if its that bad...u can have it if u come and get it the right front body mount is bent...if u look in the free section a few months back

had another side thought to my whole remove the fender and dont...run it thru the bulkhead (firewall) up to the vents on the hood and then u could take that off really quickly and have a quick connect that runs across to the a pillar and up so it doesnt obstruct your view

or set up the snorkel have the spare fender and when ure going to go 4x4ing swap the fenders and snorkel on...im sure u can make temp attachment points so u can remove it it doesnt take more than 20 mins to take the fender off and put 1 on...

i put warns on my 87 (but i think they have a diff # of threads than the 92s) only thing you need to do is make sure you get grade 8 bolts to replace the studs that they supply cuze they will more than likely break

pm sent...

check ure PM i'll send ya something that'll give u more insight also u could rebuild it? he got his from napa he just gave me a call back

its pretty easy to change out a caliper...i think theres like 4 bolts including the tension pins...the hardest part would be bleeding the brake lines after you're done...it should take prob about 2 hrs being really generous on the time...if u have good mechanical ability and the right size sockets and a torque wrench you can get it done in prob 45 mins or so wheelmanLS1 got some offline somehwere i can try to call him and see where he got them...he did slotted rotors calipers and SST brake lines...i dont think he comes around here much since he it got wrecked but u could also try shooting him a PM

i lost my motivation to work on it after the beer run...gonna drink and relax the rest of the afternoon

well got it all done except for the water pump, timing belt and the front UCA's b/c the sleeves on the bushings are rusted/welded together...so that soaking time for a b-double-e-double-r-u-n and try to get the rest of it done before the sun goes down...but got 3 ins lift in the rear and i hope to find out what i get in the front today ohh yea the handle was a bitch but i got it done in about 45 mins 30 was pissing with the stupid lil bar to get it back in place and get it thru the handle

yea my time estimates were ~1 hr to drive to his house and use the press to get the UCAs done ~prob 1 hr to ride around in his Trans Am and check out the new rear end with detroit locker ~15 mins for the oil ~2 hrs for t bars and UCA's 3 if i end up having to drop out the c/m ~the timing belt should take me about 1.5 hrs but i prob wont be able to get cam seals so it'll have to wait till next weekend ~wheel bearings would take about 2 hrs if they arent pitted and i could just repack them i have a feeling the door is going to take me 2 b/c i've never messed with it and i imagine its gonna be a mother to get my big hands in there and unhook eveyrhting and get it all hooked up... i bet my face was priceless tho...i think shes gettin pissed at me cuze the other pathy is getting closer and closer to driving

well to put the ! on my week i go out to jump in the truck to go to the gf's for dinner cuze she had called several times (i was trying to get the new coils in the 87) so i unlock my 95 and go to open the door and i end up with a loud pop and he handle in my hand... ive got an extra door with a handle so i need to pull that off and then pull mine off and replace it but i need to try and squeeze it in my schedule tomorrow and looking for an approx time... i need to do all of this tomorrow: ~go to a buddies and press out the connecting rods off of the stock UCA and press it into the new 1's after drilling holes and tapping for zerks ~install rear coils and UCA's ~change my oil ~pull never used timing belt from maxima engine ~pull off of 87 change water pump and t belt ~possibly check wheel bearings on the 95 but it can wait i've been putting it off for a while now but the handle and oil are the priorities and the rear coils...so if i can get an approx time on that i can see what is literally possible and what i need to bump off the list for now... Thanks

was it like a CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK type thing? i have had crappy brake pads shims become unadheared and start hitting the bosses for the wheel studs on the spindles...maybe a auto hub not working properly? with my 4wd and the little snow the south gets i rarely use 4wd in the snow and only used it once on a 50 mile trip to pull my ex (current at the time) gf out of a ditch and i was stopped on the highway for 30 mins and 2 ins of snow fell it was crazy charlotte got like 18 ins of snow that night and on the way back i ran about 40 in 4wd and never had problems... but usually i dont use it b/c i like to play and will only use it on hills if there is a possibility i could slide back and hit something or i didnt make it up it and started sliding back down and with they have to roll like 3 ft b4 engaging on slushy/snow sometimes i guess the front tires plow and they dont engage until im going like 5 mph and they clunk like hell (i now have manuals so no problems there) my 87 on cold mornings used to make a funny sound until it got warm and it sounded like it was coming from the back side of the engine somewhere kinda sounded like a piece of plastic slamming around under the hood but i have never figured out what it was...

here is how i did it on wheelmans truck... undid the top replace it found out i needed to leave that undone to to get the lower out...so it might be worth it to go ahead and do all 4...we seperated both top and bottom and u can maneuver the spindle out of the way to barely have enough room to get it in and out....i did have the hubs off b/c we were doing the rotor and all that off as well IIRC i was hell bent to not pull the cvs and all that other crazy stuff also another problem i had besides the upper on the driver side having a broken socket and having to cut it with a hack saw...the ball joint seperater we had was not tall enough and i ended up wedging a wrench on both sides under the seperator to get enough lift to get it unpressed from the CA's i def WOULD NOT hit it with a hammer...wheelmans were in so tight that i tried that and mushroomed the nut and bolt...although the seperator will tear the boots thats the right way to do it and only way i would recommend...possibly press it out with a c clamp might work but i dont know from experience

pull ure bumpers and run it in the winter like that if u can...or find some in a jy for cheap to run in the winters so the sorta good 1's will look good in the summers

i do know on the earlier pathys u could pay for the 31x1.5R15s but most came with the 235 75 r15 (i think) and in the FSM theres 1 call outs for the length of the stop and i had the 235's (or whatever they were) and put the 31's on and i get tire rub on the frame rail... my cousin put wider rims and tires (think 11.5 or so on the wheels but not sure) on my 95 b4 i bought it running 31s and i had to crank the t bars and do some shaving on the fenders/flares/ and that piece across the front and if i hit a good bump they'll grab the flares and fenders... u could take them off if u wanted and increase the risk of breaking stuff...or u can just let the frame rails stop the tires but i wouldnt advise that...and also my 87 had a lot better turning radius than my 95

im going thru the same thing on my 95 and havent swapped tires and rims yet...but im starting to hear a lil squeel so im thinking 1 of my wheel bearings is shot or loose or something to that effect... i've also heard of rotors being warped and causing a problem but u should be able to feel that in the pedal... mine shakes the ever living crap out of everything from 50-70ish then i guess i reach a harmonic freq and its pretty smooth

mine are getting crazier by the day... i think i've narrowed it all down to the alarm... i know if the key is in the ignition and u try to lock the doors they will open and i think it might do the same thing if u just hit the lock on hte driver side door while its open...the other day they wouldnt work period so i turned the alarm to all positions and nothing then i said screw it came out and unlocked it with the key then i hit the lock and unlock and have had no problems since i also think i've had some problems as stated above as the door unlocks sometimes i open the door and the driver side opens but the rest of the doors lock back

well ran it this weekend...with just the alt hooked up and she only leaked antifreeze...im starting to think the big leak was my power steering pump b/c i had just filled it up with lucas but where its all coming from doesnt seem to be the PSP...if i get time this weekend im going to run her again without it and see if any oil drops if not then hook up the PSP and if i have a leak and cant find it run it again without and if she doesnt leak then i will have pretty much nailed it to the PSP... if thats the case i'll prob just drive her without PS (at least for temp) being that i gave my extra pump away and yes i know the diff and it smelled like oil but not real strongly of it and thought that was just the antifreeze diluting the oil smell...