pathybuilder

For the time involved in finding coils / cutting pigtails plus the cost that the scrap yard charges you, you could buy Daystar coil spacers for the front of a 1500 - 3500 Dodge 2WD Pick-up. They come in 1", 1 1/2", and 2 1/2". The 1 1/2" set I bought cost me $40.

With a buddy you could try holding a shop vac to the shifter hole, while the other one uses an air compressor to blow some compressed air into the oil drain. If you can get the bushing moving around with the air, there's a chance that the shop vac will suck it out.

This would give you access to the area below the shifter. Although not too hard to remove, (one person can do it) it would be better if you could fish it out. If you do decide to remove the transfer case, you'll obviously have to remove your drive shafts, all the wiring connectors that connect to the T-case, and your shift lever. You may be able to slide the T-case out on in input shaft far enough to get the bushing out without dropping the case on the ground.

ID or OD, if 6.2 is OD they might work. I would go to a scrap yard and just start measuring other vehicles. That's what I did. Found a Dodge 2wd spring to be about the same as a WD21. Daystar makes 0.75", 1", 1.5", and 2.5" spacers for this spring. These are 5.75 OD so they won't work for your R50, but you might find something else.

That's just factory. The factory roof rack on the 94-95 years are different than pre 94 I believe. In all honesty I don't really like it. I can't find a way to lock the bars in place. I used to have a roof basket on it. If I put anything in the basket that would catch wind, everytime I stopped I would have to push everything forward again because the bars would slide.

Because my wife hates them

As I picked up my new wheels and tires I had to mock them up just for a taste. This obviously isn't ride height. They are Pro-Comp 8069 wheels with 33 x 12.5 Mickey Thompson Baha MTZ tires. I was originally going to go with steel wheels for their durability and price, but these alloys are being discontinued so I got a great deal on them. They have a similar look to the steelies, which I like but they are 15 lbs per wheel lighter. My gears showed up so I started on the front diff today. Didn't do much other than drain the oil and remove the cover.

Got a few updates and some more photos. I finished the transfer case gears install a while back. Came out pretty good. This weekend I finished painting the frame with POR-15. I thought it turned out really good. I used the POR solvent to dilute the paint so I could spray it with an engine wand. I was able to fit the end of the wand into each of the inspection/drain holes in the side of the frame, and rotate it around. I'm pretty sure I coated everything inside and outside the frame. It worked way better than I expected. 2 coats to finish it off. Dried rock hard. Here's some photos of the transfer case modification. Man it's sketchy how thin you have to make the oil gutter to fit the new low range gear. Here's some photos of the frame work. I painted all my control arms also.

X2, sounds like the only thing it could be. Hopefully it's just the adjuster and not the torsion bar itself.

You don't have to pay the banker every month for your "old truck"

Understandable. My comment was based off of information I received from other guys that wheel IFS. It made a lot of sense to me when it was explained in the same fashion. I've never removed my say bar for this reason, but can definitely understand why others would want to try it.

Is that a hole in your shock body? I agree with Adam, replace what is worn or loose. It also looks to me like there's moisture trapped behind your rust proofing from the way it's peeling away. Rust proofing in this condition can sometimes hide things you might otherwise want to look at.

This is just my opinion and would love other peoples comments on this. It's food for thought if nothing else. One of the only advantages of wheeling with IFS is the increased ground clearance you gain from not having your front pumpkin drag through the rocks, snow, whatever it is you wheel in. Keeping your front sway bar on helps to push the rest of the vehicle up when traveling over trail obstacles. When you remove this sway bar you defeat the only real advantage an IFS system may have over a solid axle. The obstacle pushes just one wheel up, leaving the rest of you chassis at the same level, leaving you more vulnerable to being hung up. I feel that the only place removing your front sway bar is going to help is on an RTI ramp. The offroad ride will be smoother without it, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's more capable.

You could check you mounting bolts. Probably unlikely but I had this case happen to me. The mounting bolts backed off, just enough for the starter to drop out of position and not make contact with the flywheel.

Finally finished my transfer case gears install. Been so busy over the last month. I kept seeing it sitting there while on my way out to somewhere else, hoping that I would remember how it all came apart. I hate leaving a job halfway through. Anyhow, glad it's done. It went pretty smooth other than removing the speedo sensor.

If I didn't already have a Calmini LSD sitting in a box in my garage, I'd be sold for sure. So much less labour to install than an ARB or a Limited Slip carrier.

I'm going to assume you did a better job than I did on my install. I effed mine up as it wasn't aligned properly (or so I think). It chattered in all gears and neutral with clutch pedal out. Got worse over time around 350 km on it it started squealing. Took it to a shop where they figured it as a bad pilot bushing (even though I replaced it), there was still no sign of damage on the clutch and ran fine once put back together. Not 200km later it started to chatter again, this time to the point where the clutch wouldn't fully release. I took it back to the same shop. This time there was visable damage. The hub on the friction plate had separated. If you're 100% confident it's aligned properly and that it was a quality install, I would just keep an eye on it. But if you have any doubt, I would pull it apart, before you do any more damge. Trust me I have a $700 clutch in my basement with a detroyed friction plate and a pressure plate that still looks brand new.

Good Point, thanks.

It was a while back, but I remember removing the steering arm by loosening the pinch bolt and sliding it back off the steering box, then re-installing it once the lift was in, when re-installing it, you just have to stretch it out a little. As far a bolts go, I used whatever came in the kit from Automotive Customizers. You will have the use the same as whatever you remove as they thread into the factory body mounts.

Picked up my wheels/tires and coil spacers. Lined the coil spacers up in the coil buckets to see if they'll work. Looks like we've got a match more to do this weekend....

Don't worry about it. A 31 x 10.5 will fit on the 6" factory chromies no problem. That's what I've ran for the past 3 years.

The only thing I had to modify were the slots in the body where my ARB bumper brackets attaches to the factory mounts. You likely won't have this problem. I did separate all the lines from the passenger side firewall before the lift, some fit back to their original positions some needed modified routing. I also removed the loop style bracket that goes around the drive shaft, just behind the transfer case. That's all I can think off, I didn't have to modify the 4x4 shifter linkage as those with the 3" BL do.

Nice looking rig. I'm glad to hear that you refrained from the typical "my TJ is to small so I'll by a JK" routine. Don't be concerned about not having a sunroof, 17 years into it's life it would probably be leaking by this point anyway. Anyhow, Welcome. Nice to see another northerner here.

You're probably right, I've only ever installed head units in a few different vehicle so I don't know what a "bass blocker" capacitor is. The bottom line is that It's better to use the correct wiring harness from Best Buy / Future Shop or any other stereo distributer. I only bypassed my amp because said distributers, gave me the wrong harness three different times, so I gave up hard-wired it in.

Using the correct harness is the best bet, however if you decide to bypass, just cut all wires coming in and out of the amp, I think at that point you can match colours with what you see at the head unit, the rest go to speakers. Buttsplice or solder and heatshrink the connections you make from the head unit to the wires that go to the speakers effectively bypassing the amp. You can use a 9V battery to determine which wires go to which speakers. Someone on here might know the exact wire colours, but I found the 9V battery trick to be helpful, you just touch the 9V to two wires, if they both go to the same speaker you'll hear a pop. You can match which speaker "pops" with the new head unit wiring diagram to determine FR, RR etc. I found by doing this I don't have tweeters any more, just 4 speakers as the head unit only has 4 channels. Hope this helps, I would still recommend the wiring harness however.