pathybuilder

you could use the site, or just do the math as Andy had done above. There's many ways to do it. Your 215/75/15 Tires are 27.6" Tall (http://www.offroaders.com/tech/AT-MT-Tires/pmetric-inches.htm) 27.6" (existing tire) / 4.365 (existing gear ratio) = 6.323 Therefore 33" (new tire) / 6.323 = 5.219 (New Gear Ratio) The math matches what Silverton posted above, but I have a hard time trusting a site without calculating it myself. A 5.13 Gear Ratio will slightly lower your RPM on the highway and may give some increase in gas mileage, but I doubt it would be noticable. This is what I went with although haven't installed them yet, so can't provide any feedback. My truck came with 235/75R15 and same HG43. 5.13 Gears will put me slighter higher than stock. I would imagine that you must have reved pretty high on the highway on those 215's. I'm pretty sure Auto or Manual Tranny also makes a difference in where you rev on the highway. If I were you I would run 5.13 as well.

Well, I finally got started on this again. After a summer of outdoor house renos, things have cooled off and I can finally start working on my truck again. I left the Diffs alone for now, as I'm not quite sure yet how I want to tackle them. I see that Rugged Rocks has an install kit with new shims and bearings for the rear H233B, but I believe for the front I would have to order the appropriate adjusting washers etc from Nissan. I installed my new poly bushings in the UCA's and also installed the LCA poly bushings. I also went ahead and removed the transmission for a rear main seal replacement. I was glad I did, the old seal was starting to leak. The clutch doesn't even have 20000KM on it, so no need for replacement there. The flywheel was resurfaced when the clutch was replaced, so It looks in good shape too. I will load some photos of the further progress when Photobucket is working for me again. The next thing on the list is to drop the oil pan and re-seal it as it is another leak point. Can the Motor Mounts support the weight of the Engine without the transmission installed? As things sit now, I have the transmission out and a bottle jack with a block of wood under the oil pan. By removing that bottle jack, will it stress the motor mounts? I would like to remove the oil pan now, as I'm not sure how long it'll be before I have a "friend" to help me put the tranny back in. Any thoughts? Oh Yeah, really glad I'm taking pictures. I marked the flywheels to crankshaft for orientation before I took it off. Then I cleaned the flywheel. Guess who washed the paint marks off? . Looked back through my photos and was able to relate the two.

Well, I'm glad I pulled my headers off and tranny out. Having issues with photobucket right now uploading pics. The RMS was starting to seep, If I hadn't got to it I'm sure that within 20000km, I would've started to see oil on the ground. I wrapped a ratchet strap through the shifter hole then ran it into the cab where my fiance could slowly lower the tranny to the ground while I steadied and lowered it on a floor jack. It went much better than the last time I had it out, with two guys under the truck trying to balance it while lowering and moving it back. Anyhow, now I just have to get it back in.

and running lights depend on the year. Mine had running lights when I bought it, but since then the running light module failed (that's what nissan told me). I didn't bother spending money replacing them.

A lot of guys here run the rough country arms or superlift arms, Calmini makes some as well that seem pretty heavy duty and are priced higher. Some guys even just add a ball joint spacer to there stock UCA. It all depends what you want. Like Precise 1 said above. This info is pretty well documented so if you search enough threads you're sure to find what you're looking for.

I've had it out before. Used a floor jack and a friend to help balance it on the jack. I wouldn't say it's easy, but it's not impossible. Just a little awkward, Maybe next weekend I'll tackle it.

Yeah, I like Adamzan's answer as I really didn't want to pull the transmission, but with all the suspension out now I think I might do it anyway. The truck does only have 225000 Km, so not nearly the 400 posted above. If I put everything back together and it starts leaking, It'll take me 4 times longer than if I just did it in the first place. Exhaust can always be welded again. I'll make sure to purchase a quality seal. I don't suppose there is anyway to change this seal from the inside? I'm going to do the oil pan gasket as well because It's leaking a little, and the front diff is already out. I imagine once I drop the pan, I'll be able to see the crank shaft, but there will be no way to change the RMS as it's one piece and has to come out towards the tranny? Thanks a ton for the suggestions guys.

I'm kind of stuck at a crossroads. After a full summer of house renos, I'm finally starting to work on my truck again. It sitting at a place right now where the torsion bars and transfercase / driveshafts are already out. My 5 speed transmission was re-built less than 10,000km ago, flywheel resurfaced, and clutch replaced. I'm debating whether to pull the transmission again to replace the rear main seal. I'm going into just about everything else on the truck and I would hate to have it start leaking in the next 10,000 - 20,000km. Removing the tranny would be easy enough at this point, but I would have to cut my y-pipe out as it's welded in place. Has anybody had issues with this seal leaking, and how many miles/time were on your pathfinder before issues showed up.

I could've sworn that I read somewhere on here that the Terrano uses a R180A front diff, while the V6 Pathfinder uses R200A, but I could be way out to lunch on that.

There must be a difference between R50 and WD21 then, or Auto vs Manual, cause here's a photo of the my transmission / t-case mating surface, definitely not sealed on the 5 speed. They are sealed from each other, and do use different fluids, but the seal is at the mating surface, so you need to drain the oil. I did the crawler gear swap as well. I could reach the mounting bolts, but 2" Body Lift helps.

I'm pretty sure you do need to drain the transmission. They aren't internally connected, however the separation between the two is at the matting surface to the transfer case. If you don't drain the transmission fluid you'll have a pretty messy job on your hands. As far as time goes, just to unbolt, remove and replace, I would say you can do it in a day. Remove rear drive shaft, front drive shaft, drain t-case and tranny oil, unbolt the shift lever, mark and remove your three electrical plugs, unbolt and drop to the floor. Reverse procedure putting the other case in. Beware of the alignment dowels that will stay with either the t-case or the transmission (pretty sure the t-case has them as well). I did a transmission swap a couple years ago where some of the alignment dowels stayed with the bell housing and some with the engine. These were the opposite dowels that were in the used transmission I was putting in. It made fitment interesting to say the least. Just check before throwing it in place. Also I don't know if the R-50s have different size tires depending on model, but if your used t-case came out of a model with different size tires from factory, you may want to swap your speedometer sensor over before you put it in.

Should be just three. Your speedometer / 2WD Switch / and 4LO Switch,

Welcome Friend, There is great knowledge around here. There's some nice wheeling out Drayton Valley Area. It a beautiful part of the province. The Salt here is nothing compared with other parts of the country, however it doesn't take much to eat away the frames under these trucks.

I'm not sure about the VG33, however when I bought mine the block heater cord was burnt off from the exhaust manifold. If my memory is right, on the VG30E the plug in is kind of underneath the heat shield under the drivers side exhaust manifold. If your truck didn't come with a block heater, you can buy magnetic ones that stick to the bottom of your oil pan. They aren't as good, but they do work...sort of. Not sure if yours is manual or auto. My manual is very stiff in the cold. Running Quaker State Synthetic 75W90 GL4. While you're letting it warm up, throw the transfer case in neutral with the transmission in 1st gear. It'll get the oil moving in the transmission. Shifts smooth as butter after that.

I say why not. You do what you gotta do when you live in Inuvik. You guys must clear snow there like 10 months out of the year. My dad clears snow with an 89 F-150, works great. You would have better luck with some snow tires and some weight in the back.

We have a ton of these in Alberta, We typically refer to them as "Rig Rockets" as they're driven by oil rig workers that make 200K + a year and spend 300 nights a year away from home. I usually don't have a problem with the people that drive them. Anyone that works hard enough and sacrifices their personal life to that extent to afford something like this is good in my books, but i personally could find better uses for my money.

Disconnecting the electrical plugs always give me problems, although I don't have any solutions for this. A friend is helpful to keep it balanced on the big ass jack to get it to the ground, you can also use a ratchet strap. Don't know about crossmembers and whatnot on your R-50 though.

I would still disconnect the drive shaft. In the photos below, you can see an oil gutter that moves oil from the front of the transfer case to the bearing and speedometer gear at the back of the case on the output shaft, When your t-case is in neutral, the rear shaft moves, but nothing in the front portion of the case moves because of the position of the shift fork. This would cause no oil to flow through this oil gutter and likely cause wear on this bearing if towed for a longer period of time. I don't know what the manual says, but I'd remove the driveshaft just to be safe.

If welding isn't an option, you can still make it work without a fab shop. You can notch the bumper out with an angle grinder, then notch the body panel inside your fender so you can reach the mounting bolts. To make it look better you can make a custom grill to extend down over the gap. I ran around with a 2" BL and ARB bumper for a couple years. Just looking at doing the fabrication mod now. You can see the gap, under my headlight in my signature. A custom made grill would fix this.

X2

Precise1 sent me this a couple months ago, because I had the same question. The last part of the thread has the modification for the body lift. http://www.nissanpat...__fromsearch__1

This is sweet. When I first heard the bearing race cup mod, I was thinking to myself, What if you could replace the rubber bushings with a full bearing. If this is tested and in production before I get a chance to put mine back together, you might have one more buyer to add to your list.

I wish. Been too busy the last couple months to touch it. Hopefully soon.

When mine went, I just replaced the bearing, It didn't completely seize though, just started whining really bad. You could take it apart and see, there's a snap ring you remove, then the rest comes apart easy. If it's just the bearing, go to any bearing supply store (I went to BC Bearing), and they can get you a new one.

You can offroad light to moderate trails in a stock pathfinder with very little modifications. Make sure you have tow points front and rear (factory tow hook in the front and a receiver hitch in the rear works well). Go with another vehicle so if you do get stuck or break something they can get you out. Over time you'll learn what other modifications are necessary.