pathybuilder

It has the factory tie downs, but IMO the factory tie downs are for..well...tying it down to a trailer or something, Before I put the hitch on, I had one bend over being pulled out of a ravine. I just don't trust them that much, never mind the fact that you can't fit a 3/4" shackle through them. These will likely be different than your R50 though. Right now I use a standard receiver with a 7/8" shackle through the ball mount, but for about $50 you can buy a receiver with shackle designed for recovery. Up front I have a bumper with 2 x 3/4" Shackle mounts, but before that just used a factory frame mounted tow hook, which worked great. Again, this may not exist on your R50

You are absolutely righty. I suppose I had been mis-informed at some point as well, hate to do the same to someone else. I have Class 3 on my truck, but use it for recovery only, Just looked at it 5000lb, 2", my bad. Deleted my top post.

X2. If you notice it more when the engine is cold, it could be a broken exhaust stud or leaking manifold gaskets, once the engine heats up (at least in my case) the leak kind of seals itself unless it's really bad.

Wire Brushed my entire frame. and used compressed air/shop vac to get any loose rust out of the inside. Prepped for POR-15

Yeah they seem to think that their products are superior to everyone else's and you should just spend the money on them because. I like your thinking and appreciate your enthusiasm, but I'm just not sold on the Calmini set-up anymore. Even if they could offer it for $500 I think I would pass on it. Just a preference based off of what I've read on various forums. All the power to you though if you can organize this, maybe there's some other people on here that are interested. If you don't mind me asking, Why do you need a new Pitman Arm anyway?

I would also follow Tungsten's advice and look at the nut on the steering box, just incase someone has swapped the steering box with a junkyard unit in the last 21 years. I was going to order a steering set-up from Calmini and they suggested I pull the pitman and count the splines, even with my truck being a 95. I believe there's a difference in spline count also, Post 92 is 48 spline, Pre-92 is less.

Mine smoked a bit, when I put the wrap on, even when I first ran them without the wrap, they smoked a bit, I think it was just the coating on the headers getting warm for the first time.

Looks real good, I guess maybe I'm not as good at explaining things as I think I am... The Y-pipe isn't long enough to fit onto both headers? I seem to recall that same problem. Somebody on here might give me $%^T for saying or trying this, but I loosened the manifold nuts off, so that the headers have some slack in them, put the Y-pipe on, then the last thing I did was tighten up all hardware. The manifold nuts sucked the header in fine and it hasn't leaked. You might want to try the same, could save you the cost of the shop doing it. I wouldn't go crazy on the manifold nuts, they do have a torque spec (don't recall it offhand)

While I do like the look of this system, and feel that it should hold up better than the stock setup, I do agree with Simon 100% on the stabilizer issue. If anything a steering stabilizer will cause more force to be applied directly to the TRE that takes the hit. Think of it this way. Without a steering stabilizer, you're passenger side wheel takes a large hit. The force of that hit is transferred through the TRE, through the center link, through the gearbox, and up the steering shaft to the steering wheel, where the driver, manually dampens that force. In this case the force is applied to all steering components that it comes into contact with, including the driver. The driver side wheel simply moves as it's part of the linkage, however the only force applied to it's TRE is what's holding it back from turning (say if it's wedge against another rock there would be lots of force on it's TRE, flat ground, next to none). Now introduce a steering stabilizer. Same wheel takes a hit, the force travels through the TRE, to the centerlink, but the centerlink is dampened from moving freely, therefore minimizing the force seen by the gearbox and the driver. You can't make force go away, it's always going to exist, if you try to dampen it, you simply move it to the other side of the dampener, in this case, your centerlink, inner TRE, TRE adjuster, and outer TRE. I too am excited to see somebody wheel this setup, been following it for a while, just waiting to see how it works. I'm debating between this and the grassroots link. Definitely see the advantages to both, the only difference is that one has been tested by many.

No comments for most of your issues, but the engine whine could be the bearing in your idler pulley on your AC belt. I've had that go. Know a few others that have as well. Follow adamzan's instruction removing one belt at a time if it clears when you remove the AC belt, it's likely the idler pulley.

I just figured it out, while still in your album, scroll over the image on photobucket, a little dialogue box comes up with 4 different links. The bottom one is an image code. Click on it, and it copies it automatically, go back into your post, right click and paste. No need for the little tree looking icon, it just messes it up because photobucket puts the image code in for you. You won't see your photo unless you preview post. Hope this helps.

Ahardbody ran my VIN, came back as an XE. Stock Chrome wheels, no sport comfort switch, headrests are solid. No wires going to my shocks, radio antenna is not power. I figured this much after searching the other posts, just a special edition XE with a sunroof. Thanks though

If the current system isn't too rusted, and you think you can get it apart, I wouldn't take the sawzall to it, just in case you want to use it again. Mine was bad so cutting it off was my only option. If I remember from you're other post, you're installing pacesetters. You are correct The flange on the Y-pipe will bolt up to the flange on the intermediate pipe, so you can install the O2 sensor and drive to the exhaust shop. The fitment between these flanges isn't great which may just be the quality of the pacesetters. This is also the flange that tends to leak causing rusty floors and carpet fires (as seen in my photo). If it doesn't fit right I would suggest having the exhaust shop make you a new intermediate pipe. As far as re-using the cat, that's a personal preference if it's in good shape. A high flow cat could yield better results when paired with your headers. Here's a photo of my setup from the cat to the Y-pipe, it's pretty easy for an exhaust shop to do.

I had the exact same problem on a trip up to Alaska a few years back. The heater/AC blower failed a few days after these symptoms. I took the heater blower apart, thinking that the rubbing while turning left was worn parts in the blower causing some rubbing when shifting direction. At the bottom of the DC motor, there's a small bushing looking thing that looked worn, (if I remember correctly). I cut up an electrical stake-on connector (round terminal) and used it as a spacer to prop the fan motor up and re-assmebled. It worked perfectly for another 6 months or so, then failed in the winter. I just replaced the blower and motor with one from a junkyard. It's been fine since. As far as the water dripping, when you take it apart to look at the motor, there's a little rubber hose that connects to the blower that needs to come off, I found that this is where the condensation was coming from, there was a bunch of crap in the elbow that I cleaned out and it's been fine. Not really sure why the condensation was there in the first place, but that's the best answer I have.

That looks good, mine will look similar, not quite as clean, same colour, same bumper. Already ordered 8" rims with 3.75" backspacing and 33" x 12.50" Mickey Thompson MTZ, just waiting for them to show up. I have no idea if it was sold in the US. I've actually never seen another one in Canada either. I've seen some white ones with the pathfinder decals along the rocker panels, I think they are fairly common.

I couldn't agree more, it wasn't bad with the 235/75 R15 tires on it, but the 31s stick out a bit. Flares will come with the build I'm taking on.

Could be time for a transmission re-build. These transmissions tend to starve themselves of oil. Follow this thread for more information.

After reading these last replies and watching the videos I think Mine's an XE and the SE on the side stands for special edition or something. The cloth matches that of the XE, only difference between the XE in the video and mine is that mine has sunroof and way more rust / body damage.

Here's some photos of my "Safari Edition" I don't think in this case it's anything more than a couple decals. No plaques or anything. The safari edition sticker is missing on the rear drivers side as it was in an accident before I got it and the body shop never replaced it. Oh yeah, It does make me feel special lol

You tell me, My registration says "SE", Rear Hatch say "XE", Decals on side Doors say "SE" Rear Quarter Panel (under rear window) says safari edition. Cloth interior (grey), Power Windows, Power Door Locks, 5 spd Manual, 4.375 Gears and a sunroof ??? I think It's an SE, with an incorrect decal on the rear hatch, but who knows.

I think this is a pretty good assumption. I F***ed mine up getting the old Torsion bar out. I know you said you have zero rust, but in my case the drivers side torsion bar was absolutely seized into the adjuster. Lots of penetrating oil left to sit over night and a BFH eventually got it out, but it took a couple of the splines with it. I still drove it for a while, but I'm currently looking for a replacement. Did you happen to notice if the dust boot was was in good shape and on the torsion bar before you took it in. It could make a difference in how hard they had to try to get it out.

Found these on the ARB Australia site the other night. They have outback storage solutions listed on the US site as well, but no photos. Might be worth looking into if you don't want to build your own. Linky US Prices

These look really good. I like the look of the ones that fold down, but as mentioned above, they could be a pain for access to the rear hatch. I was thinking about doing something similar to this too, but was thinking it would be good to make the carrier pivot on the bumper, and have that support the weight of the carrier, as oppose to the factory mounts. Kind of like unccpathfinder did. You could then just use the factory mounts for additional support. It'll take the weight and leverage of the carrier from the horizontal plane and apply it vertically so hopefully you don't have bushings wearing out. It would be a challenge to get everything lined up and work properly without covering up the rear taillight though.

That was what I wanted to do as well,use a power steering belt. Guess that's out of the question. I would imagine theres a belt in between the two, I'm not sure. I would be hesitant to change the pulley. I understand guys will sometimes run a smaller pulley to make the alternator turn faster and get more output., but I wonder what effect that would have on the unit itself. I guess it would be the same as running at a higher RPM, maybe it's just fine.

Here's some photos of the build progress so far. It's slow going, I'm not spending every evening or even weekend working on it as I have other competing priorities. The first step was to remove the rear axle and links as I'm installing 5.143 gears and a detroit locker. The rear lower links are being replaced with the "I beam" style links from a 92 and all bushings are being replaced. I'll keep using the ARB OME rear coils however I've ordered a Daystar 1 1/2" Coil spacer to add a little more lift. I removed the Transfer Case as I'm installing low range gears from Automotive Customizers. Removed Front LCA and UCA's as well as the front differential. The front diff is getting a Calmini LSD carrier and 5.143 gears. I'll be installing Rough Country UCAs, All new bushings, and have to repair the tension rod mounts. I had to cut the mounting bolt from the passenger side LCA off with an angle grinder, and am still working on getting the bushing out. I'm still debating what to do with the steering. Was thinking Calmini, but now I'm seriously considering either the Grassroots link with Dummy box or the 2wd Hardbody set-up. Kind of waiting to see the feedback on the 2wd setup. I removed the gas tank and did a thorough frame inspection with scrappers, wire bush/wheel hammer, chisels etc. There is rust in the typical rear wheel wells, but it certainly isn't swiss cheese. The drain holes are open. My plan is to coat the outside of the frame in POR-15, then hopefully find a way, either spray gun or some other means, to coat the inside of the frame as well to preserve it. I know people have differing views on the pot metal frames, and I could cut it out now and replace, but most guys in this area use POR-15 and swear by it. It has a hardening effect with moisture and stops rust. I'll just have to keep and eye on it in the future. Here's some of the build photos so far.