pathybuilder

I've just had it laid out on a workbench, I haven't found it too difficult to work on, although the pail sounds like a great idea. I also used the vice grip style dial indicator, however mine seems to have a longer attachment so I didn't need to clamp on the mating surface. Looking at this now, just doing the locker would've made things a lot easier, especially with the 3rd using side adjusters rather than pre-load shims like the front. It's going to be a challenge and require some patience, but I think when complete I'll appreciate that I have done it.

So, I've spent the last couple weekends tackling this, as the main parts of my build are on hold until the Front Diff and rear axle are back in. What have people been using for shims? Nobody seems to make a rebuild kit that includes shims, just bearings and pinion seals. I was told that the rear may use the same size shims as a Ford 9". I went to a local driveline shop. They were very helpful, let me look through their piles and piles of different shims, but nothing was a match for front or rear. Ordering Nissan Factory Shims is very expensive. I've already done this for the front side bearings. It works, but is pricey. So when complete I may have a whole bunch of shims I'm willing to sell at a discount. Nissan factory used a number of jigs/arbours to set up bearing pre-load and to identify the required pinion height. I tried to identify which pinion height spacer was required for the front by measuring the factory shim, and using the difference between the numbers printed on the pinions to identify which height was needed, (Nissan gives them a -6 to +6 printed on the pinion each adding or subtracting 0.01mm from the measurement obtained using the Jig/Arbour) but it appears the factory tech had poor writing skills so my gear mesh is definitely off by a little. R200A Original R&P R200A New R&P Gear Mesh still to be adjusted. It looks like too much toe contact to me, so the pinion height will need to be reduced. My Plan for the front is now to order another selection of pinion height adjusting shims, and also order new pinion bearings. I'll grind out the inside of the old bearings so I can use them as "dummy bearings" for setting up the pinion height and not have to continuously press them on and off. As far as the rear goes. The numbering on pinion is a little more clear. I have replaced all bearings already, and plan on using the same height adjusting washer as both pinions are "0" (so no adjustment required). I will order a couple spacers on either side, just in case. The biggest issue with the rear end is the pinion bearing preload. As soon as I assembled the pinion/bearings and torqued the pinion nut to spec, my preload was around 25 In/lbs, way over the 10-13 in the FSM. I have ordered a selection of spacers to correct this. There is one big difference between the front and rear in that the rear pinion bearing spacers but up against the pinion itself, so by changing the pinion (due to differences in machining, you change the pre-load on the on the bearings. The front diff, the spacers but up against the front bearing and aren't affected by changes in the pinion, so technically once set, you should be able to use the same pre-load spacers regardless of the pinion you use. Bearings may change this, but I was told by a friend that owns/operates a 4WD shop that differences in bearings are "minimal". This is why many can use dummy bearings to set up their differentials and not affect pre-load by pressing on a new set. It does still need to be checked though. H233B Original R&P H233B New R&P

You are correct. My manual states "Do not drive on dry hard surface roads in 4-wheel drive. Driving on dry hard surfaces in 4H or 4L May cause unnecessary noise and tire wear. We recommend driving in 2H position under these conditions" It does't mention equipment failure, however I'm sure if you did this long enough, you might start to experience some problems. All I was suggesting was that the OP will need more than a couple quick starts on a gravel road to accurately diagnose the problem.

Rather than filling you post regarding ford springs with crap, I created a new post with the specs on the spacers I want to run. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34795-coil-spring-spacer-option/ FYI, I may be incorrect about the pigtail on the Ford Springs that I mentioned above, I found another thread regarding the use of Ford springs from 1970 to 1978. The springs I was referring to were from a mid 90's explorer, thinking the same as you that maybe I could find a coil spacer option... Thanks for this, I didn't think they would be an issue. The spring step on mine is on the axle side, not at the coil bucket where the spacers will be installed, but I still understand your point.

I'm putting this in here looking for other peoples input on what they think regarding a coil spring spacer which I've purchased and will be installing. I'm currently running ARB OME coils which generate 3/4" of lift. I'm going to install a Daystar 1 1/2" Coil spacer for a Dodge 1500-3500 2WD pick-up. The Specs on the OME Coil. I would appreciate it if someone could measure a factory coil to confirm that they are roughly the same size. OD = 5.3" ID = 4.2" Length shouldn't matter, but if someone wants I can measure it The Specs on the 2WD Dodge Coil. OD = 5.6" ID = 4.0" Free Play I placed both coils into the spacer so I get a somewhat accurate measure of how much free play there is. The Dodge Coil in Spacer = 1/16" OME Coil in Spacer = 1/4" OME Coil in Coil Bucket with rubber isolator = 1/8" Rubber Isolator on top of spacer in Coil Bucket = 0.0" The Rubber Isolater fits perfectly to the outside of the coil spacer, making me want to run both. This takes up any free play that previously existed between the coil and the coil bucket, however the free-play between the coil and the coil spacer will still be present (approx. 1/4")

I believe you can run Daystar Spacers for a 2WD 1500 - 3500 Dodge Pick-up. These are available in 1", 1.5" and 2". I've measured the Dodge coils and compared them to the pathfinder coils, There is a small difference, however I don't think it will be a problem. This is what I ordered for my truck, but haven't tried it out yet. Maybe I'll take some pictures of the set-up tomorrow and see what others think before you go ahead with something that isn't proven. Here's the link for the 1 1/2" spacers. http://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=13 You can also get spacers through summit racing, some of the other members here are running them, but I don't have any other info on this. I also looked at using Ford spacers, however from what I remember, the fords use a pigtail, the same way that the jeep springs do, so any spacer for these will be designed to accommodate the pigtail. They won't work for us. Have you heard bad stories regarding spacers? I know a number of jeep guys that run coil spacers for a budget lift and I haven't heard anything bad about them. I'm curious to know, because it might make me change my plan as well.

Once you get the tranny out as unccpathfinder showed above, remove the clutch and the flywheel. The pressure plate of the clutch has a loosening/tightening sequence to keep from distorting it. Mark the flywheel to crankshaft before you remove it. Mine wasn't leaving a big mess on the ground yet, but you can see from the seepage that it needed to be replaced. You can use a screwdriver to pry the seal out, just be very careful not to scratch the sealing surface of the crank shaft. Once I got mine started with the screwdriver, it pulled out very easily with a set of needle nose pliers. Use some Moly Grease to lube up the new seal. Set it in place and tap around the outside edges with a brass punch to push it into place. Bolt the flywheel back up, torque to the specs in the FSM, Mount the clutch. An alignment tool would be handy. I found an 11mm 1/4" drive socket fits perfectly into the pilot bushing, used a 1/4" extension with a 5/8" 1/2" drive socket over top to centre the hub of the friction plate. This seemed to centre everything fine, but an alignment tool is likely the better way.

I've run the OME coils for a few years. I can't remember what the cost was, I think around $125 for the set. They are 0.75", I believe the 1.5" is for the R-50 guys. They are a heavier spring rate. I've run mine with spare tire carrier, and a 48" High-lift jack mounted to it, and no sag yet. I like them, but haven't run anything else other than stock, so I can't give you a comparison.

I'm not sure. I think the side bearings and shims are the same, but looking at the difference between the 300zx LSD and the 370 LSD in the sport models, I think there's a big difference myself. The carrier may be the same, but it would require some more research. I don't even know what type of an LSD would be in the 370Z. It lists it as a Limited slip, but it's deffinitly not the clutch type that's in the 300zx. This isn't posting the diagrams I copied in, but you can check them out yourself on the courtesy parts website. Edit: It looks like it's a viscous LSD in the 370Z anyhow.

I'm in the middle of an LSD install myself. I couldn't find a junkyard unit, so I ordered the carrier through Calmini. Just ordered Side Bearings and Shims from Alkorahil. Something I received in e-mail back from him: Interesting note: these parts ordered were resurrected for use in the rear diff of the 2009-2013 370Z. I doubt you would find one in the junkyard, but a wrecked one on kijiji, might have what you're looking for.

I would be surprised if it's a transfer case issue. Everything in the T-case is direct coupled either by chain or gear. I really don't think there are any clutches or mechanisms that would cause the problems that you mention above. I think you should put in back in 4 hi and drive around for a while (even in the city, just stay off the freeways) to confirm that this only happens in 2WD. Changing fluids is a good start. If it doesn't fix the problem, I would start to look a little more at the auto trans. Excuse my ignorance as I'm not an auto guy but http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/999-cool-easy-auto-tranny-mod/, talks about torque convertor lock-up. I know this is more applicable to towing and climbing hills, but I wonder if your torque converter is locking up before it should and causing you to go right from 1st to overdrive. Does the truck shift fine after the initial bog down going into 3rd gear, or is it possible that it is going straight to overdrive?

I actually wasn't aware that there was an issue with the I beam style links breaking, Good info anyhow, guess I'll carry one rear lower link as a trail spare. I'm changing out to all poly bushings, and swapped to the I-beam style links. No info on flex yet. I certainly wouldn't spend the $1300 Nissan wants, I think there's better options out there.

If you're pulling rear links from the JY, pull from the pre 94 models, they are a little beefier and the same length. Not sure why Nissan changed the style of the link in 94. Mine are somewhat bent, and I have a friend that bent his as well.

Check the other end of the cable that connects to your control. There's a plastic valve thing under the dash that the cable connects too. The piece that holds the cable in place broke off on mine so it didn't matter how I set the temperature on the lever the actual temperature never changed. It's hard to explain, but if you follow that cable you might find your issue.

Bought my 95 in 2004 with 114,000 km. Has 228,000 km on it now. The way I see it, as long as I keep it in good shape and try to keep the rust down, I should have it around for at least 10 more years.

this is what I'm looking at doing. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/electric-fuel-level-gauge-p-5693.html https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/fuel-level-sender-p-1487.html Cheaper than getting the sender from Nissan. I'm sure there's other vendors out there that can get the same sort of thing.

Picked up a bunch of parts I was looking for. Pick and Pull finally had some pathfinders on the lot. Grabbed Drivers Side Torsion Bar Adjuster, Speedo Sensor (as I mangled mine getting it out), 4x4 & Low Range indicator switches. Then I really lucked out and found a 1990 SE on the lot. Pulled the rear disks out (shafts and all). They even had a 2006 X-terra on the lot, I was going to pull the seats out, but they weren't in very good shape. Been eyeing there inventory for the last several months and seldom come across anything worthwhile. 6 WD21s and and X today. Looks like I'll be doing the disk brake conversion when I throw my axle back together

Mine does the same thing. I think it's pretty common. I believe that the sensor in the tank goes out over time. It's this little resistive gauge that operates on a float, then sends the signal to the cluster. I priced one out from Nissan and they were around $200. I think I'll see if I can just install some sort of an aftermarket gauge, and forget what the indash gauge says. I'm sure someone else on here might have some better suggestions though.

you could use the site, or just do the math as Andy had done above. There's many ways to do it. Your 215/75/15 Tires are 27.6" Tall (http://www.offroaders.com/tech/AT-MT-Tires/pmetric-inches.htm) 27.6" (existing tire) / 4.365 (existing gear ratio) = 6.323 Therefore 33" (new tire) / 6.323 = 5.219 (New Gear Ratio) The math matches what Silverton posted above, but I have a hard time trusting a site without calculating it myself. A 5.13 Gear Ratio will slightly lower your RPM on the highway and may give some increase in gas mileage, but I doubt it would be noticable. This is what I went with although haven't installed them yet, so can't provide any feedback. My truck came with 235/75R15 and same HG43. 5.13 Gears will put me slighter higher than stock. I would imagine that you must have reved pretty high on the highway on those 215's. I'm pretty sure Auto or Manual Tranny also makes a difference in where you rev on the highway. If I were you I would run 5.13 as well.

Well, I finally got started on this again. After a summer of outdoor house renos, things have cooled off and I can finally start working on my truck again. I left the Diffs alone for now, as I'm not quite sure yet how I want to tackle them. I see that Rugged Rocks has an install kit with new shims and bearings for the rear H233B, but I believe for the front I would have to order the appropriate adjusting washers etc from Nissan. I installed my new poly bushings in the UCA's and also installed the LCA poly bushings. I also went ahead and removed the transmission for a rear main seal replacement. I was glad I did, the old seal was starting to leak. The clutch doesn't even have 20000KM on it, so no need for replacement there. The flywheel was resurfaced when the clutch was replaced, so It looks in good shape too. I will load some photos of the further progress when Photobucket is working for me again. The next thing on the list is to drop the oil pan and re-seal it as it is another leak point. Can the Motor Mounts support the weight of the Engine without the transmission installed? As things sit now, I have the transmission out and a bottle jack with a block of wood under the oil pan. By removing that bottle jack, will it stress the motor mounts? I would like to remove the oil pan now, as I'm not sure how long it'll be before I have a "friend" to help me put the tranny back in. Any thoughts? Oh Yeah, really glad I'm taking pictures. I marked the flywheels to crankshaft for orientation before I took it off. Then I cleaned the flywheel. Guess who washed the paint marks off? . Looked back through my photos and was able to relate the two.

Well, I'm glad I pulled my headers off and tranny out. Having issues with photobucket right now uploading pics. The RMS was starting to seep, If I hadn't got to it I'm sure that within 20000km, I would've started to see oil on the ground. I wrapped a ratchet strap through the shifter hole then ran it into the cab where my fiance could slowly lower the tranny to the ground while I steadied and lowered it on a floor jack. It went much better than the last time I had it out, with two guys under the truck trying to balance it while lowering and moving it back. Anyhow, now I just have to get it back in.

and running lights depend on the year. Mine had running lights when I bought it, but since then the running light module failed (that's what nissan told me). I didn't bother spending money replacing them.

A lot of guys here run the rough country arms or superlift arms, Calmini makes some as well that seem pretty heavy duty and are priced higher. Some guys even just add a ball joint spacer to there stock UCA. It all depends what you want. Like Precise 1 said above. This info is pretty well documented so if you search enough threads you're sure to find what you're looking for.

I've had it out before. Used a floor jack and a friend to help balance it on the jack. I wouldn't say it's easy, but it's not impossible. Just a little awkward, Maybe next weekend I'll tackle it.

Yeah, I like Adamzan's answer as I really didn't want to pull the transmission, but with all the suspension out now I think I might do it anyway. The truck does only have 225000 Km, so not nearly the 400 posted above. If I put everything back together and it starts leaking, It'll take me 4 times longer than if I just did it in the first place. Exhaust can always be welded again. I'll make sure to purchase a quality seal. I don't suppose there is anyway to change this seal from the inside? I'm going to do the oil pan gasket as well because It's leaking a little, and the front diff is already out. I imagine once I drop the pan, I'll be able to see the crank shaft, but there will be no way to change the RMS as it's one piece and has to come out towards the tranny? Thanks a ton for the suggestions guys.