RedPath88

Yeah and most outdoor sports stores have them, like GIJoe's, Sportsmans Warehouse, possibly REI, etc

I thought about simply disconnecting one side but then decided against it because I did not want the chance of hanging up on it, when one side drops and the other compresses. Anyway, I drove freeway, highway, city and back roads today... along with trails and I think I will just leave it (rear sway bar) off. I even had to dodge a Tacoma News Tribune van today when he tried to run me off the road... on my way to Tahuya

The one I have installed in my truck right now failed to tests

TerranoNZ.... your drive hardly qualifies I took my rear bar off last night. The first time you do it it may be a pita, but after that it would not be hard to remove reinstal it if you so choose.

Mine (from a mid 90's Quest/Villager) is a 110. I checked schucks.com (aka partsamerica.com) and they first year they list the Quest is in 1993... the only AMPs listed on alternators is 110

Nobody posted a pic of Calmini arms

Does that mean that your moving before it happens or the cluck occurs just as you start to move? If it happens just before or as soon as you start moving check your driveshaft u-joints.

Anywhere that sells shocks.. you have to tell them that you want them longer.

Ouch.. yeah that sucks!

That is an important "minor detail"... that hose can be a real PITA and doing it when your already in there for the timing belt just makes it easier

Are the adjustable shocks oil filled? Check the shocks too, mine did that and I found that one of my front shocks was blown.. replaced it with a $5 wrecking yard piece and a week later the other side blew I gave up and just replaced them all with new ones

Linky

^^^What she said^^^

That's why you buy the Rough Country arms for $165 (dropped at your door) *They are made by SuperLift and other than the color, they are the exact same parts

Good thing you checked! I planned on "bumping" this the other night because of the number of new members we have... but it slipped my mind. Thanks

Some like them, some don't. I think there have been more reported problems with those that the SL/RC arms. AC's arms seem to have a bit of a rep of not being consistent in quality... maybe you were lucky and have a set that were made on a good day

Actually there is a Tough Country suspension company, but they don't make/sell UCA for Pathfinders

hmmm... perhaps it is time for some custom work and a little "bump out" in the front to allow the radiator to be shifted forward some? I already a couple visuals coming to mind. :idea: Yes it would take some work, but the bigger question may be... Would it be worth the work?

Yep search around, in addition to the info 88 has provided over the years, k9sar gave some extensive detail on the different springs and rates that JGC's came with. There is a TON of info one them here.. it's just waiting for you to find it As Mr. P siad go slowly if you need too, there is no reason to rush it. I have been stockpiling parts for a while now. I have all the suspension lift components that I want (except for new TBars, but I don't "need" them anyway) and a body lift. The BL will be the last thing I add (if at all), this just because I have always had a problem with them The reason none of it is installed yet is because I am STILL waiting on one thing before I install them... but that is another issue for another time.

No, it's not... the "highest" priced one on partsamerica.com is only $73. And you could get a coil and wires for less than that! Oh, and they are easy to change. Take UUCC's coil and that could drop the cost down as much as $53, depending on what one he has

Do you have aftermarket UCA's? I have not cranked my TBars yet (waiting on one last part before I install any lift components), but I wonder if it is like that... or as bad, with longer aftermarket UCA's?

Although possible, I have found it far easier to just remove the four bolts and pull the seat. they have a plastic cover (protector?) over the ECU that makes everything more difficult

Ever checked them in a 2Dr Mr P? *Not 30min, but not 3 either

3in is about the max your going to get from the front no matter what UCA's you use. AC Lists 3in (the max) and RC lists 1.5-2in as a happy medium. You also need to understand that RC's reference is being done with the UCA's being sold as part of a lift kit for a leaf sprung Hardbody. Why does this matter? Because the kit includes longer shackles for the lift in the rear of a HB. And 2in is about as much as you should go with lift shackles (because they are actually 4inches longer than stock to get that 2inches of effective lift) If your still afraid that RC arms cannot give 3 inches of lift then, as an example, take a look at 88's sig We'll round it to a straigh 6in, now take the body lift out and that still leaves 3in of lift. He did that with suspension lift and since he does not have a diff drop kit (such as Trailmasters 4in lift - See Slicks King CaCa) that means the lift was attained through cranking the TBars. He uses Superlift UCA's, which are the same a Rough Country's Arms... SL makes RC's, they are just a different color. And I can, through personal experience, verify that this is true. You "could" get that lift without after market UCA's, but it is NOT recommended! After market arms correct the suspension geometry. Without them you cannot properly align the front end and you will go though a lot more tires. Yesterday I saw a Pathfinder here in town with a three inch body lift and a TBar crank lift... looked to be about 3in as well. The tops of the front tires leaned WAY in and I could hear the money flying out of the owners wallet, in the form of tire wear. *If I see that truck again I am going to try and talk to the driver/owner. It was the same color as mine, I think it was a two door though I don't recall exactly. I was right behind it in the turn lane and as soon as I got a side veiw (as it turned) the tires caught and held my attention This has been said many, many times.... in the front you should get stock length shocks, because the travel of the front suspension does not change with new UCA's and/or TBar crank. My last statement only means that the UCA's do not provide the lift (the TBars do) so they are not really "lift" arms

Since you are listing the shocks separate I am going to assume that the "3" AC Upper Control Arms" are simply that... just the UCA's. You are going to need either spacers or replacement springs in the rear for lift back there. I would suggest that you save yourself some money and go with RC UCA's... then use the money saved on a set of springs for the rear... from a wrecking yard Jeep Grand Cherokee, new Jeep springs from a parts store or Pathy specific lift springs. Oh and if you really were referring to only the UCA's you might consider dropping the 3in from the description... it's not needed and nobody really describes them as that