RedPath88

My understanding is that you would prefer a heavier FW over a lighter one for a 4WD truck. Adds torque, or (more likely) helps the engine make better use of it.. don't recall exactly. But since you said that you do not off road it, then the same probably does not hold true for you. On road squirrels huh? If your trying to build something fast... personally I would recommend you buy something else, like maybe another Z

So this is adjustable also or jst preset lengths? Like I said, learning curve... It could be either, preset would likely be stronger but someone (who is already lifted) would need to come up with some proper lengths for that. Are they the right dimensions (other than strength)? Are they mounted? Send them to me and I'll reverse engineer them. it's not so much that they are cheap i guess, just that they are simply steel plates with holes (unless I am not ID'ing the right parts in the kit) I just think that some other method would be better suited... perhaps two one-piece mounts in place of the two per side that they use now.They are not mounted as I have not installed the lift yet. I could send them to you, or simply take measurements, either way is good for me. If you had them in hand you could get a better idea of how they mount, even with the front damage I bet. Although a mock up would work as well I suppose.. don't matter to me I am in no hurry to install the BL Thanks for the clarification... sorry, reposition the rear axle side to side. When a suspension lift is installed the bar has to pivot down, which pulls the axle to one side. A longer bar would address that problem.An Example: Up to you, I'll open it up and port/polish it if you wish. Say wouldn't that, a stock air box and a pict/explanation/dimensions of any lines allow me to design a snorkel box? yeah it may... and I can likely come up with the other parts for fairly cheap Here is a pic of some WD Coil Spacers:

Image of TM kit components: http://www.trailmastersuspension.com/images/parts/NP43.jpg Drawing of kit components: http://www.trailmastersuspension.com/image...nissan/NP43.gif Basically this offers the ability of extend them to push the rear axle back to where it should be after doing a suspension lift. Not a bad idea at all, but not sure how many people "really" need the extra dampening I agree with this one 100%, which is why I created my own method of mounting my Quest alt, that did not require modifications to the alt itself. Could make things more straight forward, but not 100% needed. I have not done this swap on my Pathy so it is based on the experience with doing the efan swap in my yota From looking at the cheap little brackets in my BL kit, I thing this would be a welcomed alternative. These are available already, AC sells the kit and includes template for drilling the holes in the body.. They get the hardware from Nissan. But if the cost could be kept lower, then maybe more people would want one? There are plenty of these available for other trucks that could be used to get a starting point Yeah, dammit B! You posting what you did with them. It might have been on one of the old PoHo thread, but I don't "think" you make a dedicated thread on it. Same reason as the trailing arms, except that this repositions side to side after lift. To bad I was not closer Hmmm... I do have a spare VG30i TB

Are you/they 100% sure that you got four wheels with the same offset? *Maybe they mixed an oddball in there without noticing it.

The idea of large tie wraps would work just fine. Sammy, I would not worry about it as tie wraps are a lot stronger than people think. *not talking about the dime store/harbor freight verity... those are for small wires only "Top hat" style design was along my thinking as well

Ok I keep seeing "Tempo" mentioned, but the Tempo is an entirely different car and afaik do not have that fan. Mine did not at least. Taurus and Sable = Same basic car. Tempo and Topaz = Same basic car But the two groups are nothing alike.

Take a look through here... How-To's

You know I just put a second one on a few weeks ago too But I would suggest that you just remove one from the otherside and take it in with you, that way to know for sure that you get the exact bolt you need

I would imagine they are aluminum... I had a set of them on my Yota for a short just after I got it.. until I found some centerlines, with the offset I wanted. Modern used to make afiak only Aluminum wheels. Less Schwab used to carry them, but they do not list that brand anymore.

Mr. P, your stock reverse lights flicker too... have you checked the switch and it's electrical connection?

Crap... nevermind... it did Forget it even happened, mentally tell him to stick it and if he does pull you over again and give you a hard time, file a complaint. If he gives you a ticket, fight it and file a complaint *I was pulled over once in my Yota because my license plate lights do not shine on my plate, they are in the stock location (attached to the bed) and the plate is mounted to the bumper. The bumper is not stock, but another cop told me that there was no way for him to prove that my truck did not come with a bumper like the one I have now. So I simply disregarded the first cop and have never heard another complaint about it

Just something I thought I should point out.... even though many Pathfinders did come stock with 31" tires, including the spare and you have the spare mounted in the stock location.. yours did not (correct?) and if he was to check the info plate on the drivers door jam, he would have grounds for a ticket. But the odds of him doing so are slim... perhaps it was just a bad day and you got his frustrations taken out on you. Now with that said... I say forget it and drive on. If he does give you a hard time again or a ticket.. fight it!

Converted the standard mesurments 235/70 R16 = 29x9.3 (Section Height 6.5) R16 255 65 R16 = 29.1x10 (Section Height 6.5) R16

Oh and new shocks are not "needed" but are recommended. Front shocks are the same length no matter what lift you choose. Rear shocks can be longer (gives more downward travel)... and those can be added even before any lift is installed. *My truck has longer rear shocks and currently no lift

SL can consist of as little as rear coils (you then crank up your TBars), but it can also have new UCA's new TBars, and in place of (or in addition to) the coils you could use rear coils spring spacers. BL consists of body spacers (and hardware such as the bolts, bumper brackets, etc) The alternate is a Trailmaster drop bracket suspension lift... which costs a lot more than the other two combined. And truthfully the three of those lifts can be combined, resulting in an approximate 3+3+4 lift.

I am not entirely sure what you mean there if you want to go 33's then yeah the 3+3 is probably best. (people will bring up that they have run 33's with only 3). By both are you talking about a BL and SL? Or are you thinking that the 3+3 and the UCA/Coils + BL that have been mentioned are different?

In the Taurus is was completely unexpected... you could normally steer that car with a single finger even while not moving. And on the Pathy, I never said that it was hard.. but it was noticable.

You can edit that

When my RH cam busted I was driving down the road at 60MPH, engine simply died and as soon as I turned the wheel to move to the shoulder I could tell the PS was gone. In my old Taurus I had the PS Pump died on me at 70-80MPH in a (MUCH slower than that) corner... holy hell did it get hard to steer... Ford/Chevy strong arm had NOTHING on that beast ...just about lost it in that corner, but was able to pull through. The rest of the drive home sucked too

No problem.. it's just that so many ask without ever searching. *As for time to look, remember we are also spending our time to answer... two way street, no? Best value UCA's would be Rough Country.. call them direct and order just the UCA w/hardware for a Nissan Hardbody (just say the same year as yours is) Body lift? Well only one company makes them for Pathys (Performance Accessories). Problem is that the rear bolts for later model WD21 Pathfinders are different than the earlier ones. the kits includes the early bolts. So you either have to buy the kit from AC (who includes the new bolts) or track some down yourself. Here are two links that may help you out... Body Lift Considering a Lift

It causes quicker wear on the balljoints.. some people have run for years with no problems while some have worn them out in weeks... luck of the draw I guess Also getting it properly aligned has been a problem for some people (but not all) if the camber is off then it can cause faster (and uneven) wear on your front tires.

SL: Front = crank the Torsion bars (UCA's not "necessary", but recommended... with the exception of AC's, aftermarket control arms correct Balljoint/camber angles when lifted) Rear= Replacement coil springs or if you can find/make some spacers BL: Only the body lift is required. UCA's are not part of a BL

Someone else you chime in on the cost of the UCA's and BL install costs.... iirc there are some here who have paid a shop to do it. But the rear springs are REALLY simple and something that you can do

falconer, I just edited the post... might want to skim it again

I don't think your going to get 100% agreement on the BL vs SL issue Personally I prefer SL.. but then I have never been a big fan of BL's. I have one for the Pathy, but am still on the fence on whether or not it will ever get installed. I picked it up right after I bought my Pathy because at the time I did not know of any way of lifting a Nissan short of the Trailmaster lift... which is not cheap... but now I know better I also have never installed one on my Yota pictured below... all suspension lift. Body Lifts are cheaper than UCA+Spring SL's are. But you can keep JGC (Jeep Grand Cherokee) or Ford springs. It is true that you can keep the price below that of a BL by finding used springs and not replacing the UCA's, but they are IMO recommended. The choice really is yours, since you said that you already searched the site then you should have already come across tons of info on this and you are probably already developing the general feel of what most people thing of the two