RedPath88

Nope, you just started a new row Welcome OfftourRoadie96! You can find your Official NPORA Member page here: www.nissanpathfinders.net

It does seem to change by dealer. By spec according to one local deal it is 89+. But another used my VIN to check and said my 88 was covered. It took two appointments, one to check to see if they really needed replaced and to get the exact color that needed to be ordered and a second one to actually install them. It did take over a month for the parts to come in, as one of them was on backorder. But they came in and they have been replaced. The reasons mine were replaced was the TSB for the front buttons (although mine did not "really" show the signs of needing replaced) and that they were slow to retract, even after they checked them out and also my drivers side belt was fraying along the shoulder/chest area. Below is a scan of page 31 from Nissan's Warranty Information Booklet. BUT keep in mind that this is from the 1995 model year, and yours is earlier. If you are going to try and use something like this as leverage, you really should try and source a 1992 booklet. Check wrecking yard cars and trucks, this is how I got my 95 booklets (also have the Owners Manual)

They work as nunya said... there was no switch installed in the dash or console in the 2Dr's

Post it up

Actually, with WD21's a good external cooler installed AND bypassing/eliminating the stock one has proven to be the best course of action. The stock WD21's coolers are prone to clogging due to internal buildup.

The main reason for bypassing the stock cooler (located inside the radiator) is due to the stock ones clogging over time and restricting trans fluid flow. An external filter may slow this process but will not completely solve it. Also, if you are not installing a new auto trans radiator when you put the filter in, all the build up and restriction that had previously developed in the original cooler will still be there and causing problems. If your planning on installing a new radiator/cooler unit, then you might as well just install an external cooler and be done with the whole issue

http://www.avm.com.br/products4.htm

Start with this: Ecu Self-diagnostics For 87-95 Pathfinder

Yep, that is the one I was thinking of

Only thing you can do is try it. Unless I am thinking of another, Nissan's CAS uses an optical sensor and a slotted rotor/disk for it's readings. I have never taken a Nissan CAS apart, but did have the cap off years ago (when I had a suspected bad dizzy and/or CAS) and iirc you can see the "eye" and the slotted disk if you take it all apart. Contaminates such as dust can cause misreadings. You could try cleaning it better, I don't know what effect electronics cleaner might have on the assembly, I would think that it would be ok. But it could cause a haze on the eye which would mess with the readings. Maybe we can get 5523Pathfinder in this thread and see what input he can provide... in fact, I will PM him

The CAS (Crank Angle Sensor, also called a Crank Position Sensor) is located inside the dizzy on all petro burning WD21's. It can be replaced separately but from what I know (and have always been told) it is such a sensitive part (dust, moisture, etc) that replacing the complete dizzy is often recommended. Depending on what brand and where your buying from, a complete distributor may only be a little more than just the CAS.

I did not. And so far I have not had any trouble. But I don't have a lot of power draw on it at the moment, if you do then running a new one can't hurt.

Just by the rust hole (or so it appears to be) in the third pic I say pass it up. If there is enough there to cause a hole, then it is probably even worse farther back, whether it looks like there is rust or not (smack the side of the frame rails above the rear axle with a hammer, on any WD21 you look at.)

I paid no where near that when I bought one... expensive for what it is Yes, but not even close to that.

The last piece finally came in (was back-ordered) and new fronts were installed yesterday. Much more comfortable, new ones are way softer/more flexible than the old 372,000 + mile belts and they retract very easily (no more fighting them to go back in)

That switch can not engage 4wd, as stated above, all it does temporarily allow you to engage the starter without the clutch depressed. WD21's do not have any form of electrical engagement of the 4wd system, it is controlled 100% by the transfer case lever on the floor. I would say that you simply rolled far enough forward to engage the auto hubs (these are also purely mechanical and use zero electronics) but you already stated that you have manual hubs. So you must have already got out and turned both hubs to the 4x4/4WD settings. Perhaps one of the hubs did not properly lock, and by coincidence, it engaged about the same time you pressed the switch.

umm... OK *I used the free Paint.net (http://www.getpaint.net/)

Lockers are great, no doubt there, but they can also get you in deeper Winch I say... have a way out before you get in

Another one of those things that was never availible in north america.

Sure it's possible, but not likely without being noticed before if came to this point... it should have lowered gradually over a period of time. So is the T-Bar hanging free or is it still in the adjuster? Check the adjusting bolt's threads, it may be stripped. Also check the splines inside the adjuster and on the T-Bar itself to see if they are stripped or damaged in anyway. Might need to check the front as well

I think you just answered your own question

The switch is located in the transfer case, here If the light is not working then the problem could exist in the switch, bulb, fuse and/or wiring. If need be, check the wiring between switch and bulb and between power and switch, including the fuse) The hubs are not electrical, they are completely mechanical. They engage when the axle shaft turns.. They have no electrical system that enables or prevents them from working. If they are not working then they may need cleaned or rebuilt.

2WD/4WD Pathfinders and 4WD Hardbody's = Same thing (top and bottom) 2WD Hardbody "Looks" the same in the FSM, but that is no guaranty. You could verify it by getting dealer part numbers. If it's the same part number, then it's the same part between the two. But I can tell you that HB LCA's ARE different on the 2WD's

2WD what? Pathfinder or Hardbody?

Moved this to the general section, since it's not really 90-95 specific Are you asking for opinions on this, or ?