RedPath88

Pull the valve covers and look at them. Better yet pull the cams, inspect them yourself and if you are still concerned then have them professionally measured. When I had a cam break (caused by unrelated issues) I took them both to the Delta Camshaft (local Tacoma, WA area Cam specialist and machine shop) and asked them what the best route was for replacement. They looked at the good one and after pointing out that it showed no wear, they measured it and said this one is almost perfect, so just replace the other with one of the same spec and call it good. They provided a new replacement and after I installed it there was no noticeable change in the way the engine ran. That was at 234,000 miles, so give that you are 80,000 miles below I would not worry about it and would install the VG30 cams myself. They easily could have told me that both had to be replaced simply to sell two instead of one cam, but they did not, this says a lot about Delta camshaft and it also says a lot about the factory Nissan cams.

Just a thought here, but it it were me I would have taken the time to repack the bearings, new grease is better than old and they were readily accessible. Old rotors, take them to a metal recycler, either a paying one even though you won't get much for just those or the local landfill/transfer station. A wrecking yard might take them too.

Shocks should not be a limiting factor here, as some have installed low profile bump stops top gain "just a little more"... actually it is usually less about lift and more about a little more flex room for a, relatively, better ride. So check and see if your on the bump stops. And even if you did, changing the shocks for longer will not help for a number of reasons If you go with a longer shock then odds are you will loose down travel since the body of the shock will need to be longer. The real limiting factor in how high we can go with a T-bar lift is the angle of the halfshafts/CV's. There comes a point where they are over extended and can jam. Jammed CV + Engine power = Buying and Installing new CV, followed by lowering the front just a little after a lesson learned. Remember, when lifting the front of a WD21 (or D21) you do not need to replace the front shocks. And even if you replace them for something more suitable for off road, your ride preference or simply because the existing ones are worn out, you buy the stock length shocks whether your WD21 Pathfinder (or D21 Hardbody for that matter) is stock height or lifted, it does not matter.

And throw some cardboard down on the ground, that way the gravel and dirt/dust problem is all but eliminated. And if it's a big enough piece, it will be a little more comfortable to sit kneel on

One of the top items we try and stress to new owners... unless there is rock solid documentation showing that it was recently done. Cheap (when done yourself) and effective use of a day (or less - for first timers) to help ensure long term use of the vehicle. Really lucky none of the valves were sitting low

Well, that tops my broken cam and although a "bigger" failure it matches the results (engine replacement) of my rounded out crank keyways that followed the cam. Sorry man, that really sucks.

Alkorahil is just a PM away

Just out of curiosity, did you try calling a local dealer? I have replaced one of them, and I "think" it came from Napa, but that was right after I bought the truck and do not remember what it was or how much it cost. But my yota has an odd sized smaller bulb too, I think it's in the enviro controls, twenty years ago I bought the replacement from the dealer for about the same price as a comparably sized bulb from the parts store. Just a thought, you will get the right one and might even get it for about the same price as aftermarket, but without the run-a-round.

On topic is enough and since the other one has already received a reply, I will close this one. Please go here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40304-87-nissan-pathfinder-rough-idle-and-dies-when-hot/ for further discussion on this subject. Note: Creating just one thread on a given request actually makes getting that help easier for you and allows others to provide the help easier since all discussion is kept in one place for everyone to see and build off of, while also helping to keep NPORA easier to navigate and search for info within.

Tapatalk updated to the most current version. /mobile

Others with more knowledge of the Auto trans will hopefully belong soon to help, but in the mean time I suggest that you take the time to read through the following topics. In the Garage > How To's section: How To: Transmission Cooler Install Adding an AT Cooler From the 90-95 Section (Pinned above your posted topic) Changing auto tranny fluid? *also talks about cooler installs Auto Tranny Temperature Gauge And while were at it here are a couple other unrelated but still very important threads from the Garage > How To's How to change your timing belt! How to: Prevent Fire (clean blower resistors)

Same here, but as others have mentioned there are other things to check as well.

--------- *EDIT* --------- Possible? Yes Common? I don't know if I would call it common, but it happens enough to suspect it. Might as well check the slave cylinder while your at it, if it needs replaced I'd do it at the same time. They are also fairly cheap iirc, so if it looks even slightly questionable, maybe do it now so your only bleeding the system once

I've cut back on adding it at Subway the past few years.

Removed the other. Never beleive tapatalk when it tells you there was an error. Refresh the post/topic listings and just about every time your content will be there. Looks like a good score for $400!

Or... Cheapest/Middle of the road/Most expensive ?

+ Third one

The difficulty and time required can very, depending on how much stud remains and how much work they are to break free and extract.

That sucks, but the good part is that you got it out and things seem to be ok

never noticed this... title fixed for better search result inclusion.

Looks like the boots may be next

And there ya go!

PM (or call) Alkorahil and see if there is a resource, perhaps by VIN to get a replacement. Late 90's I bought a Ford Taurus with factory wheel locks and no key, local Ford dealer was able to match them up for me. Don't have the car anymore but I will never forget the lock color code "Silver/Black" with that I could go order another

Well then the first thing is to positively identify where the sound is coming from.

I personally would not add trans fluid for the long term. Short term cleaning (maybe 500 miles tops), but not a full oil change cycle. Trans fluid is rich in detergence but it is also thinner than motor oil. I did 250-300 miles with a half quart in my Toyota once and it made enough of a difference to be noticed (cleaner) when I pulled the valve cover to inspect, the same time I changed the oil and filter going with straight motor oil. If you want to go thinner, then use a thinner oil, that way you know and can control the exact weight of the oil.