RedPath88

Pulled out my spare/yet to be installed replacement, cluster and looked at the bulbs, markings on small bulbs from all three socket colors . They are all Toshiba bulbs and are in Toshiba V-2 sockets Brown Socket: Toshiba A14V1.4WL Blue Socket: Toshiba A14V2WL Black Socket: Toshiba A14V3WL So my assumption is that the are Automotive 14 Volt in 1.4, 2 and 3 Watt variety Lamps. Searching Ebay for either the numbers listed above or "Toshiba Socket" will bring up results. Looks like RoackAuto "may" have the black socket 3watt bulb or combo

My only "point" is that it's the exact same link, and your downloading the files directly from them Honestly I was just trying to figure out if something had changed and our years old link, that takes you directly to the source and that countless members here have used, was now broken But your right, it doesn't matter, I was not making anything out of it, as I said it "worked, one way or another it "

You lost me, but no matter because the links... being identical... worked, one way or another.

That is the very first link in the first post of the FSM thread in the Garage.

This, is what the clino connector looks like

I know, that was to help slimshade1 understand you

= "tire" carrier

and please check the pinned topic in the Pictures and Videos section for more help on picture posting.

Tye wrap, locking nylon strap, etc, lots of names same general idea

Although I have never seen one in person, from what I can see in the video it appears to be pretty much like any 4cyl engine of the era and as such it should come off pretty easily. Remove the bolts and it pulls right out. I personal would question if the radiator really needs to be removed. Remove the shroud if it has one, then if you can get the fan off of the clutch or the clutch off of the water pump with out pulling the radiator then it's that much less work I've actually been able to remove them without even pulling the shroud, just unbolt the fan blades from the clutch or clutch from the pump and let it "sit" against the radiator in the shroud. Just don't let it move around so as to not damage the radiator fins. It's also possible that both shroud and the fan (or fan/clutch) need to come out together, if the radiator is not removed.

No one actually makes a 2in or for that matter a 3in body lift for 4dr WD21's. The 3in lift that AC sells is a Performance Accessories lift for the 2Dr's rebranded as AC with the replacement bolts for the back two locations included. You can, as others have, buy a PA 2 or 3 inch lift for an 87-89 Pathfinder and then source the proper bolts for the rear. The specs for the 3in are around here somewhere, Precise1 might know where, that will give you the size and thread pitch required, then you would just try and locate a bolt that is about 1in shorter. Or buy the 3in spec'ed bolts and then cut them down to fit.

FSM: Diesel Engine Supplement

And FSM: Diesel Engine Supplement

Perhaps this will help?

PM our resident Nissan Parts Guy Alkorahil and see what he can do

Not quite but I'll give you credit, close enough. And it's only been a little over three years since we moved.

Calm down, calm down Where was this forum?

Says the guy who's been here only as long as he baked in the oven

Much of that info can be found here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19148-94-pathy-lift-options/?p=325961

This makes sense to me, because on the few auto's that I have had and had to move the shifter on, without battery power, I have never had a key related problem. Given the age I would bet it is a mechanical lock, maybe electrical on newer vehicles, but I would hope not.

Yeah like the others said, take the whole thing and work on it at home. 88 5spd Ignition Of course even having this means nothing in my truck, as the key is so worn that it can be removed in any position.

As MY1PATH said, download them all. Then open fwd.pdf that will be the Table of Contents that will then link to the other sections Keep them all in one folder and do not rename any of them.

Well your in the right section, pinned in the The Garage is this topic Factory Service Manuals Click the top link and then head to your year and down load the PDF's

I have been asked several times over the years exactly what length shocks I installed in the rear (of my WD21) so I thought I should copy the info here for all to see without having to PM me I was able to pull the part number from one of my rear shocks and they are: Manufacture: Pro Comp Model Line: ES3000 Model Number: 32450x ("x" digit designates any included mounting hardware) Length - Full Extension: 24.84in Length - Full Compression: 14.82in Travel Distance: 10.02in Mounting Style (Top/Bottom): Loop/Loop Shock Barrel Diameter: 2.36in These are longer than stock and were installed years before I ever lifted the suspension. You can, and IMO should, install longer than stock shocks in the rear even if your truck is stock, if you off road at all. This is because it allows form more downward travel and helps keep the drooping tire on the ground. Perhaps for easier reference, this shock is the one listed for a 1983 Toyota 4x4 Pickup with a 3in suspension lift. but please remember that the front shocks on our WD21's is the same as stock when you lift using only the T-Bars ("T-Bar Crank") so do not order the Toyota's fronts and expect them to fit. If you do you will be disappointed. *Please refer to MY1PATH's post directly above regarding brake cables and limiting straps if you decide to go longer. There are also considerations regarding the driveshaft hitting the crossmember when going longer.