sw

yes & its a wise move

the location of the filter, with in reason, doesnt matter. mount in the engine bay where you can easily get your hands on to the filter (to make changing the filter easy) you want to bypass the stock cooler, thats the whole point of this project! the stock coolers block up & then your in trouble

best bet speak to a local diff/transmission shop & get the low down! you need to keep in mind that lsd will still free wheel on occasions, they are not a locker.

ac will certainly cause different idle speeds as Big J said not really much to worry bout unless something really wrong

our frames are based on a truck frame youll break driveline before frame.....

youve blown a fuse somewhere if there wasnt one and you did what you did. there would of been lots of smoke and heat and the wire would of burnt out

new clutches. sure you have an lsd.......? when worn they usually make all sorts of wierd and wonderful sounds

if your doin it to save power, and you live in a hot area, i would probably stay with the mechanical fan. they have heaps higher air output then electric fans

they do work but you need to have an oil 'in' point just before the compressor and then an oil trap after the compressor. dont wanna fill your tyres with oil...... the oil is needed to stop the compressor from siezeing (sp??) up and to keep the seals in good condition how ever even with this setup i ve heard they dont tend to last long a better idea than an old ac compressor is buy 2 cheap compressors from a generic auto parts store and plumb them together into one tank, obviously controlled by one pressure switch. ive seen it on a mitsubishi pajero (i think you guys call em monteros) and it worked ok

:bow: :bow: :bow: i need to say it again :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: holy cow........

i do beleive thats a post hijack...........

chances of a split vacumn line??

where else but the bullbar

oils probably gettn pretty average by now (based on miles) heating up stuck botls usually works a treat....

theres heaps better tyres than bf craprich wear got to do with how you drive, i have mud terrains and do ok

one battery in the stock spot ant the other one on the other side of the engine bay, where the air box used to be. to get mine to fit i got: custom air conditioner pipes moved coil packs moved charcoal canister moved air box moved window washer resivior

deep cycle will be ok aslong as the load isnt more than what the specs say is ok i would recomend instead off underneith the vehicle get one of those battery boxes and mount it in the back inside the vehicle

two small clips on the inside sorry not much help, i didnt figure out how get it out without damaging it * goes and gets slot screwdriver, leaver, leaver, snap..... doh, wheres my super glue..... *

sure the regs' just not doing its job simply adding a couple of lights wont cook the chook amps wise unless your 'system' is huge, wata ya runnin?

ah dont bother with the plastic trim, most likely the end is blocked. just go to your rear hatch and pull out the plastic lines in the top of the door, they simply pull apart, pull the 'jets' off the back door and clean it out with hot water and compressed air. put it back in and reajust the possition of where is sprays the water on the window

mine is setup via 'redarc' duel battery controller, still considering a larg diode but havent really needed it. the controller does a pretty good job the two batteries sit either side of the engine bay. i had to move stuff around to get them to fit but it turned out pretty cool. as for what you need, what do you wanna do? i have one start battery and one deep cycle battery (thats gonna change soon tho.... 2 start batteries up front and the deep cycle in the back) a rule of thumb: deep cycles like slow discharge (small amps) for a long time. large discharge kills them quickly start batteries like the big discharge and constant use (ie starting and all your accessories) but they cant handle a small discharge over a long time, if they go flat from this it will porbably kill them. i use my deep cycle for a 3 way fridge (and thats it) and havent seem to have any problems yet. however you need to be careful with charging deep cycles they also dont like high re charge or over charging check the tech specs of the ones you are looking at and decide from there. youve mentioned a dc to dc connection are you planning on 24v's? if you are you are corect batteries can die quickly if not done correct. if i wanted to go 24v (thought bout it but no dont need it) i would use a dc to dc supply from redarc. the one the do is pretty good

for doing some of it your self, good feeling ay? if you had access to a lathe you could of done the rebuild aswell..... anyways

sorry, i retract my comment - wasnt awear of the constant drive up front for the new pathys -study-

the ball joints on mine just simply unscrewed with a spanner had my struts done 2 weeks ago

just remeber cv's only turn when 4wd is engaged what about rubber boots on the steering stops or lower arm to chassis bolts