sw

im with you Matt i didnt have to touch mine

here you go, from 88 linky prettty simple mod

definetely, you must get the thermostat to open, then you add more coolant very good point

thats lookin real good Mike what did you do in the end anyway????

if this is true then.....

not exaclty sure on the weights of oil, auto parts store should have a list of what oils are suited to what vehicles, just go in and talk to the attendant. grinding noise, maybe its wearing out, i dont know however i do know my front diff makes a little bit a noise when engaged, but i wouldnt hesitate for a second to use it. hasnt let me down yet another way to find out able the lsd is to ring a Nissan dealerhsip with your VIN number and they should be able to trace back in there records.

you went through a river, the water went over your headlights and you dont have a snorkel.... how did you not get water in your engine? i did this once before my snorkel (refer photo section) but i moved my intake right to the back of the engine whats the go, or more importantly weres the vid?

paitence grass hoper.... the front diff you can use a medium duty gear oil, just drain what ever is in there and refill with new stuff lsd: jack the rear of the car up, in neutral, then spin the wheels, if the spin the same way then you do have lsd if they spin in opposite directions then you have an open diff. if you have an open diff you can use the same oil as the front but if you have an lsd you must use lsd oil. manual tranny again medium duty gear oil, drain the old stuff and refill. the plug is on the side from memory hope this helps

whoa lots a questions....... na just kidding, its early in the morning here here goes auto trans fluid: as i have a manual im not sure but from what i seen here i think non oem fluid is ok, some one will get sthe specs.... 88, someone. the filter is a bother to get to and its only a fine gauze rather than a filter. do a search in here on auto trannys and you will get the picture transfer case: medium duty gear oil will be ok, just drain what ever is in there now and fill with new stuff rear end: do you have an lsd. if not use the same oil as in the t case other wise use lsd oil new thermostat & gaket = good move. our years of paths are not fussy (generally speaking) completely drain the system and fill with good quality coolant. my system takes about 4 litres, no idea what that is in quarts aftermarket service stuff is ok, the only thing ive found is that the Nissan belts have more of a groove and therefore fit better. with aftermarket belts if its very cold and i tromp it on start up i will get the 'loose fan belt' screech for a few seconds. the other things you can check are the control arm bushings and also the exhaust manifold, check the FAQ section for further info hope this helps

definitely the switch problem pull the switch apart clean & straighten the contacts Aaron, Jim cann we make the head light switch a sticky please

if you wanna get ripped by the stealer, opps i mean dealer, go right a head otherwise do it your self. theres NO WAY removing the power from the power antenna should be causing the radio to shut down. theres only 2 things that can be happening here 1. the power for the radio is bridged through the antenna (STUPID, STUPID design) or 2. the antenna has some sort of signal to the radio that its operational (unlikely, even sounds stupid on paper) you speak of the antenna spliting to two wires, the fat one is the only one you need to worry about, the other on just runs under the dash and earths on the car body under the windscreen. sounds like the apaptor is causing the fault if i were you i would pull the adaptor out and 'customise' it so the deck gets power, replace the two wire antenna with a generic antenna from an auto store & wal la if you want an unpowered Pathfinder antenna go to the nearest wrecking yard and get one from a wrecked Pathfinder

post whore or should i say sirpadsalot

yes 88 always has the answers Aaron can i employe you to be my personal organiser? sly

is the starter solenoid getting 12v when you try and start her?

you know the rules Big J PICS PICS PICS btw where did the pics smiley go?

stock shocks are gonna limit your wheel travel greatly, pick up some rancho's (theres numerous mention of them here in other suspension posts) body lift approx $130 (keeping in mind im in oz, so about $2 american) suspension..... ummm (ill keep that figure under my hat, i bought expensive stuff when i didnt know better )

i beg to differ, arials simply plug in/plug out ???? :confused: :confused: thats news to me, again i beg to differ some one correct me if im wrong

someone give that man a beer to go with that cheese burger some one had to say the obvious sooner or later, it was screaming 'PUSH ME DOWN, PUSH ME DOWN'

down load L view downloady herey open up pics in this program then resize them average 50 to 80 k's, with good viewing quality still

taken straight from the FAQ section Front End Clunking/Squealing Noise When Turned To Lock Steering stops keep the front wheels from being turned past a certain point. The steering stops are built with plastic caps. How long would anyone expect those to last? Anyway, they fall off or wear out, and you have metal-to-metal contact between moving parts. The result is when going over bumps, with the steering turned to lock, such as when turning across curbs, you get a nasty sounding and feeling squealing/clunking. The solution is to grease the stops and contact areas, or to replace the plastic caps. There are four of them, two in front of your front wheels and two behind your front wheels. They are easy to find and grease without raising the vehicle. Another source of front end squeals or noises are the front differential crossmember bolts. Over time, the bolts can loosen, allowing the crossmember to shift slightly every now and then, causing noise from the front end...sometimes alarmingly nasty sounding. The fix is to re-torque the crossmember bolts. There are four bolts to re-torque, two on each side of the front crossmember. They are easily accessible from the front of the vehicle without jacking it up. I don't have the exact torque figures on hand, but simply cranking the bolts tight with a 1/2" drive ratchet worked for me. sounds like you have loose cross member bolts

doh ill get back in my box now

pbr make good brakes little bit more pricey, but when it comes to stopping why take the cheap option

autos dont have clutches' anyways sounds like the shop you took it to did something wrong, take it back to them and make them fix it at there expense btw: no reverse is a good sign of a worn auto tranny

compare it to the new oxy sensor what does that look like

check the radiator, see what colour the coolant is in there - should be green as for the over flow bottle unscrew it, take it out and wash it out till its clean did this with mine