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sw

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Everything posted by sw

  1. just my $0.02 definitely try for high tensile bolts, there might be a day when you wanna push your pathy pretty hard & a lesser grade bolt might not cut it. i made my own kit, cause its pointless me getting a US kit. someplaces here wanted $1000 per inch of lift :o thats right per inch i just went to a local fastener shop and bought HT treaded rod & then cut it to length (note use 1.25 pitch tread!!!!) i sorced body lift blocks from a local 4wd store $10 a pop also try engineering places - just asked for poly urathane (spelling) blocks everything else you alter to suit - with miscellaneous steel, pipe and hose hope this is of some help edit: btw i cant see there being any difference for a kit for a older pathy its only bolts, blocks, a couple of brackets and some hose
  2. sw

    this weekends mods

    do you guys have 'lap sash' across the back Tram next time your visiting oz, sure we can lift your path hehehe mmmm 33's - not with the stock steering setup
  3. 2" inch body lift install gotta get it complianced now, will do that shorty
  4. thanks Stat still doesnt look familiar.... maybe a patrol alternater will go
  5. can some one post a pic of a quest, the name is not familiar here in oz maybe i can eyeball it, recognise it and then get an alternater from what ever the equiv is the more i here about the quest alternator the more i wanna do it mmmm 100+ amps thanks guys
  6. speaking of body lift partys Aaron i could of used your help on the weekend, had to do it all by myself, all my mates were 'busy' oh well got it done, pics very soon
  7. i sorced a reg for my n13 pulsar for a local auto electricaian - real cheap, did it myself and also got to learn more about the way it works. any descent auto elec shop should be able to supply just parts. Aaron you mentioned a deep cycle battery, just wanted to give you a heads up youve gotta be careful how much you draw out of them, they really dont like high discharge, they like slow discharge over a long time. i have one in my vehicle but i only use it for my 3 way fridge. it draws about 10 amps on 12 volts, i wouldnt want to load it up much more than that, and i only use it when camping, otherwise i will be shorting its life span. btw my deep cycle is a 160 ah 20 despite what my member page says. anyways just a heads up
  8. do you know the specifics of what you wanna do? 88 hit the nail on the head these sorts of jobs are all one off customs. lots of time and megga $$$ involved
  9. mr Pickles & Martine Man have you looked at both front and BACK sets of brakes if only one of the four is not working properly, it will do wierd and wonderful things....
  10. anything but bfg's sorry im just being an a$$
  11. try lubricating the linkages if its sticking pull the pugs and see what condition they are in, if there stuffed do the plugs and wires together you cant get any thing in there to measure the diameter of the bolt?
  12. hey in the picture what are the four bolts down the bottom used for? i just cant put my finger on it & is that 3/4 fuel hose?
  13. WHAT grrrr my basic Pathfinder, with electric nothing.....
  14. it doesnt sound good thats what my lsd was like before i changed it for the air locker clunking and squaking and feeling as if it was binding i not to sure how rebuildable lsds' are go the locker.....
  15. sw

    Noise

    Stat the sheild on the cat is know for rattling i heard Aaron mention it before, i think he just chucked his in the end, not sure tho
  16. sounds strange is there any clearance issues with the fan? is it the rigth fan as for the wp if your chewn em up - are you doing the belts too tight? i know its not much help but its a start :confused:
  17. so you have renewed the fuel filter and air filter? check the timing idle should be around 850-900rpm i very much doubt the fuel pump have you checked for any codes?
  18. sw

    Noise

    no the way detonation works is with the fuel spontaneous combusting before the spark from the spark plug the spontaneous combustion is cause by excessive heat build up in a cylinder the harder the engine is working the hotter it is - hence not all the time this can be due to high carbon build up, high head pessure & too far 'advanced' timing. what you are doing by 'retarding' the timing is not letting the engine get to this point of excessive heat. you loose fuel eco & power BUT you do save your engine from a very quick death i retarded the timing on my path but i still slightly suffer 'pinging' if im not carefull but no where near as bad as before. hope this makes sense
  19. as Mike said - check the faq
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