andreus009

Is that Uwharrie on Daniel? If so, those rocks got my bumper too!

Hmm...Calmini still has the 3.9 gear set listed on their website. If I had to do it again i would have gone with their set because of easier install. Automotive customizers set is tricky tricky to get in since it reuses the original diameter bearing. Also, its larger gear requires more grind on the t-case oil channel if I remember correctly. Anyway one comment, if possible have a second set of hands/eyes available at the final assembly stage with the AC gears. Getting everything lined up was a bear (at least for me). J

Anyway.....I looked at the 94 tech manual to see the difference between the 2WD and 4WD steering connections. The idler arm of the 2WD is unbraced just like the 4WD. At a glance the tie rods and center link look less substantial then the 4wd ones. Before I swapped over to the 2WD system, I'd ask myself why did Nissan engineers make two different designs for 2WD vs 4WD....my first two thoughts are range of motion and strength. It would generally be expected that 4wd vehicle suspension will be put through greater range of motion and be subjected to more abuse. The 2WD system may work adequately if you customize it completely to be strong enough to handle the abuse you intend to throw at it, but you may end up spending more money than if you bought something off the shelf such as the Calmini system. IMO, the Calmini system is geometrically the best design I have seen. I don't know about the quality of components they use or their material strengths. The Calmini system eliminates the twist on the center link by connecting the tie rods directly to the idler arm/pit man. I think the tie rods would still be a weak link due to the angle especially on lifted vehicles. However, TREs should be more inexpensive and easier to replace then the centerlink. Also, by extending the idler arm and pitman arm to allow the TRE to connect directly, there is an increased possibility of bending these under certain conditions. Hopefully, Calmini accounted for that in the material grade selection. I'm not knocking the GR centerlink. It is definitely an improvement over the original, but is still subject to the twisting forces exerted by the tie rods due to the dog bone design. My friend installed a GR centerlink on his Frontier after the original started to fail during an offroad trip. It has held up well and shows no signs of degradation. I've been fortunate enough to not have failed my centerlink or bent my idler arm(which was braced at 150,000 miles). I have GR centerlink in the garage that I will install when the time comes since for myself I don't abuse my truck enough to justify the Calmini system. Got other toys I could spend that kind of scratch on ;-) J

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325 Found this....for newer models but steps should be similar

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17038 Have you tried this yet? After market torsion bars are generally stiffer than OEM; therefore for each turn of the adjusting bolt you get more push so theoretically can get more lift. Keep in mind at some point you will need those other upper control arms so your tires can be correctly aligned. If you raise the vehicles enough to get the wheels off the ground and look at the tires from the front they look like this \ /. Sitting on the pavement it should look something like this | |. Crank your T-bars and don't do alignment is like raising the vehicle so your tires starting looking like this \ /. With enough cranking there isn't enough adjustment with stock upper control arms to get back to | |, so you end up replacing upper control arms. That is the best I can explain in a few paragraphs. There are other posts here abouts going into the details of lifting these vehicles.

Well, I've done it myself without any issues. Remember, tires are high speed balanced so they shouldn't vibrate too bad unless you get crazy with it. Ideally you have a friend you trust run the gas pedal while you listen and watch. Have him/her bring it up slowly and if things start to make you uncomfortable tell him/her to let off and hit the brake. If things are stable and not shaking like heck then you can walk around the truck listening for your whine. Try different speeds and try listening when you let it coast down. I always had the jack stands under the axle tube, so rested in the dimple/sunk area of the jack stand.

Could try jacking it up in the rear with both wheels off the ground and "drive" it to spin the wheel(s) it to see if you hear a similar sound coming from the rear without actually moving. Obviously, safety first...solid jack stands under axle and front wheels chocked. Are you in 2WD or 4WD when you hear the noise?

Not to long ago after doing my transfer case gear change out I refilled with Royal Purple MaxGear 75W90 which was available at Advance Auto Parts. I was in a hurry and there were not a whole lot of options. I remember doing internet search on the good ole iphone to verify that it was okay for synchros/soft metals. I don't remember what I found but reading this topic made me re-visit what I had done. The best I found was their FAQ site: http://royalpurple.com/faqs-transmission.html, which says it is "noncorrosive to soft metals found in manual transmissions that specify a GL-4 rated lubricant." So far I haven't had any issues, but the Pathy is no longer the daily driver so not too many miles on it since the gear swap. Oh yeah....it's expensive too...like $19.00 a quart...so moral of the story is plan ahead an order one of the tried and true oils mentioned above.

$400 for set. Sent PM also please read. Thannks

Well...31" tires changed my actual speed vs speedometer reading by about 5mph at around 55-60 mph. I've upgraded to 33" tires so I have these available in case your interested. The top 2 are Dueler AT D695. The bottom 2 are Dueler AT also but an older version. All 4 still have good tread life left and only have been off the vehicle for about 1 year or less and been sitting here on the covered patio. No sun exposure.

If you're running 31x10.50s there shouldn't be premature wear by using the stock chrome rims. I and others have run like this for years. The premature wear i had came from having wack steering/alignment issues. Yes...i beat my Pathy....she likes it....mostly! [<--This comment was for entertainment purposes only. Don't try this at home unless you have spare vehicle]

Use a cork....easy to remove if you ever need to equalize the pressure in the cabin. (sorry..couldn't help the smart a$$ answer)

I did all the front seals (crank and 2 cam shaft seals) the last time I did the timing belt. No dropping the pan was required for this on my 95. Having a seal pulling tool helps, but it can be done with screw drivers (at least I've been told) Always be cautious of scratching the shafts when you are doing this. Loosening and tightening the cam sprockets can be a bit tricky. I think the FSM tells you stick screwdriver through the one of the holes in the sprocket and wedge against the metal plate behind to keep the sprocket from turning. The metal plate behind isn't all that thick so it distorted when I did the first one. I later figured out a trick with two socket wrenches. One socket just fit in one of the holes cam sprocket with the arm of this wrench coming across the socket that was on the cam sprocket bolt. This way you counter turn both wrenches and apply good torque to socket on cam sprocket bolt. Wish I had a picture. As far as I know the only way to get to the rear main seal is to pull the tranny.

If the bar doesn't slid back out of the front with the front tires fully drooped try jacking up the A-arm some. I've had this help get the bar out without having to disconnect the connection point at the A-arm.

Valvoline Durablend 10W-40 plus Lucas oil stabilizer. I like red bottles....they are easy to find in the store!

Ok...done a little searching but haven't found what I'm looking for. Let me describe the problem first. I can drive around town all day long and have no problems. However, if I go out on the highway and get the engine fully heated up then the problem will come into play. If I'm going along at constant speed, let off of the gas, and then go back on the gas then the engine will sometimes start to miss. Sometimes it will recover on its own eventually, or I'll have to down shift, rev up and then up shift again. During the engine missing the Check Engine light comes on. I just pulled the codes today and it comes up 33 and 34. The 33 is the O2 sensor which is probably being tripped because of raw gas going through while it is missing. The 34 is the infamous Knock Sensor. So does anyone know what happens when the knock sensor goes bad? Will it cause the engine to miss or lose lots of power??? From what I've read so far the knock sensor signal is used by the ECU to control the ignition timing advance. Basically as I understand it, by using this signal the ECU advances the timing just to the point of knocking and then backs off a bit. So I could see how if this signal was bad, then it might affect the performance.

In stock setup the largest you can go without any issue is 31x10.50. These will rub the frame rail a little at full steering lock but it doesn't cause any issue. 4x4parts.com sells body lifts and suspension lifts. P.S. There a lot of threads about tire size and lifts around here. Try searching around. You can find a lot of interesting stuff.

Here is my thing with the rear ABS. In order for it to function BOTH wheels have to lock at the same time because it relies on the drive shaft for the speed sensor. I guess it will function ok in really slick conditions, but in something intermediate or variable more often then not one wheel will lock before the other without even triggering the ABS.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27041&st=0&p=500506&fromsearch=1entry500506

Just a quickie add-on of advice. Have a second person on hand when you actually go to remove the transmission. As stated earlier...its a heavy b*^ch!

Actually ended up pulling it back to the round ~ 4" tube that goes between the frame rails over top the differential. First wrapped the tube in some rubber, then heavy duty tie wrapped the drive shaft in place through the holes in the drive shaft flange. The other end was still engaged on the output shaft so it couldn't fall out, but it did have some up and down play on the spline, so I added a strap under the shaft near the transfer case so it would hold it tight in the up position. Also, with it pulled back like this it leaves a gap between the drift shaft disk and the dust cover over the tcase. Wrapped this area with a trash bag and tie wrapped in place.

Actually hanging it was my plan ;-) Yeah, clocking is a good idea. Not sure if I've done it every time i pulled the shaft, but will probably do it this time since i remembered to mark it.

Planning on flat towing my pathy to North Carolina in a few days. I plan on disconnecting the rear drive shaft to be safe. Anything else I should be thinking of?

Muy Bueno! They have good grip...I'd like to try them in some mud sometime but so far haven't had the opportunity. *lol*

Ok, I think I have looked for an hour now and haven't got everything I want. Please help me answer the question areas for the stock chrome steel rims that typically came with XE models. I'm selling my tires and rims, so want to have all the information available for the craiglist ad: Rim Dia = 15 Rim Width = 6 or 6.5? Backspacing = 3.75 or 4.00? Bolt pattern = 6 on 5.5 Thanks!