OldSlowReliable

there was JUST a large topic about the wire configuration.......fyi

are you sure its a starter click? and not the accessories' relay click? I thought my car was in P when it was really in D on the dunes once, it clicks once for everything interior turning on, but won't crank... tried starting it in N?

you're welcome to send those PIAA's over to my house

Adding to the subtopic^ I have to put it in park when passing neutral (aka from 4hi to 4low) otherwise it grinds gears and such or whatever...I only put it INTO 4hi under 10mph, but if the need is urgent enough, i'll take it out while going faster... but carefully at that.. Hypothetically, (I'm not sure this can even happen) but maybe you are either missing, or sliding PAST 4hi(as in not a user error, like the transfer case is wearing out?), and running into neutral? sounds like what it would do if you were trying to go from N to 4hi or 4lo

Is that an offer?

jk lol

exactly why I wish mine was a 5 speed^^ It takes alot of throttle feathering to get them to sit in overdrive...usually involving going full throttle past the speed, totally off the throttle, then adding only a little bit to keep it going...

Yeah, my truck (on 3+3=33 with 12.50 wide tires) will get exceptional mpg on the highway....but it takes a LOT of fiddling around to get it to be happy, otherwise it will try to sit at 3500 rpm! I've found that my cruise control will down shift alot, causing me to again, sit at really high rpm's, whereas if I get it up to say, 70 or 75, then back off, it will purr around 1500 rpms (probably more around 1800, but somewhere between 1500 and 2k).. If you're looking for good gas mileage, 1) you've picked the wrong vehicle (lol) 2) you shouldn't put 33's/lift on it

Yes, FF stands for Free Form(ing lense), whether it is a fog/driving light depends on which you buy A very common misconception, just letting you know On another note- From most people I've talked to, you will get a little cutoff from the roof/hood mounted lights, as well as SOME glare depending on how you aim them, I would put fogs closer to the road, but driving lights up there wouldn't cause much of an issue, the cutoff angle would only make a difference for about a foot past your visible view of the front....barely make a difference in their effectiveness in other words.

which did you get as fogs and which as spots? Just curious..

well, HID's use less power than a regular lamp, but you'll be spending alot on them... I believe hella has some nice HID offroad lamps... Personally, I'd just put a pair of hella 500s up there...not too costly, work well, and its not like you're racing in the baja 1000 or anything

I was going to bolt through the entire 2x2 steel tube, but I wasn't sure how that difference in leverage would effect the bolt, so I drilled out the outer surface (so its still tube and very strong) then bolted inside, mind you also protecting the bolt head in the process I ran into issues finding bolts to match the stock pitch/thread as well as stripping out the captive nuts, so I ended up drilling straight through the frame and using 6" bolts, then putting the nut/washer on top of the frame rail, worked GREAT. So yes, I used 2x2 all the way down

I made it after my body lift, although it would actually be a fair bit easier to do it on a truck w/o the body lift. The body of the bumper would be the same, but the upper mounts would be perpendicular instead of at a 45 degree angle, and the bottom arms would only need to be 2 pieces instead of 3

Ah, but it is still a good measure! Add a little fender trimming, and you have a pretty well suited setup! If you really like your sheetmetal, its a nearly cut-free way of fitting 33x1250s

3"+3"=33s

When I built mine, I bought 6' of 5x2 steel for $34, I thought that was a pretty good price

I can think of two topics that have recently been about building front bumpers, I'd suggest going to one of those, seeing which ones you like, and messaging the owner for specifics

ugh, now I gotta keep this stupid drop bracket around longer!!! lol! I was hoping it made a difference for southern states...guess not!

I've made the drive from MI to FL quite a few times in my life....its really not so bad! Will this be a winter trip or a summer trip? (lol, I just looked it up, you mean 2k round trip right? lol, I was like "damn! i had no idea it was that far!!) Get an oil change, and make sure to bring some extra fluids (i.e. coolant, wiper fluid, oil, tranny fluid..) Make sure your tires are good on tread, and that you have a adequate spare, ensure all are inflated properly before you leave Basic emergency kit...pretty self explanatory (even just one from walmart will probably suffice, + a plug kit and I'd suggest a small portable air compressor) Top off all your fluids, and I would check them periodically, such as when you get there, and when you leave. Make sure all your bulbs are working, and I would pull the tires to check on the brakes, to see if they are dangerously close to metal on metal.. If there is maintenance you have been neglecting, I'd take care of it before the trip.. Personally, I'd pack a medium sized tool box, just so I could fix anything that happens to break or fail on the road.. or just sign up for AAA! Its really not too bad, our old 97 chevy van made that trip 5 or 6 times easy, and although would usually break down the week before the trip, would always make it! and back then we really didn't think too much about "preparing" the car...luckily if something DOES go wrong, its not like you are driving to alaska, so there will always be someone around to help, and stores that you can buy parts/gas/supplies at in an emergency!

x2 I bought a pair used, gave exactly 3" over stock, little soft for hauling say, 600lb of cargo, but definitely a comfy ride and used, I paid $45!

I was referring to the indicator light that illuminates being on the right, but your diagram picture looks correct, as I remember the blank side being on the left.

if it helps- by my description, the top of the switch has a molded plastic parts code/nissan logo or whatever, and the bottom has a PRINTED 12v and some other stuff...

It is closer than the stock, but if something hit most bumpers they would hit some portion of the body.. by swinging up, i.e. a deer. Anything else, i.e. tree or wall will not, as its 5x2 tube, which will NOT bend any time soon, and the bumper is the furthest point out of any point of the body. When funds allow, I'll be adding a stinger and some hella's for driving on back roads, to protect the hood from deer

if you remove the switch, with the light rectangle on the right side- looking down on the top of the switch, light facing you and on the right- from right to left on the top is PURPLE, then YELLOW on the bottom row, underneath purple is GREEN