OldSlowReliable

LSD locks the wheels together when one wheel is spinning faster than the other...so think of a situation, your stuck in some sand,(you have open differential) and only one of your wheel is spinning, right? This is because that wheel has the least friction, and energy is always looking for the easiest way out. If you had LSD, the difference in speed between your two tires would set it off, locking them together 50/50 with power, and turning the one that DID have traction, moving you to safety. LSD is good for street cars, because it doesn't usually catch on street cornering, think of a car, going around a corner, the outer wheel needs to go faster, as its going in a bigger circle, right? but if you have a lockrite locker, or you weld the differential (so they always spin together) then that outside wheel is turning the exact same as the inside wheel, and since that outside wheel needs to turn faster, it makes the inside turn faster than it can while still holding traction, and therefore 'chirping' on the street. Welding the differential is the 'cheap' way of making a LOCKER. Remember, lsd is open until the wheels are at varying speeds, lockers are ALWAYS locking the wheels together. Its kind of hard to explain HOW they weld them without some pictures, and you having a decent understanding of how a differential works....But welding=locker=street chirping.....lsd=not locker=not chirping

im in the same boat, but i think my new pathy will have an open...so ill probably be installing an air locker with onboard air....just to kill two birds with one stone pump

she says the guys said the brake pads were overheating and screeching on the rotor, and that it had something to do with the brake pads being a little thick, and it eventually just went away :\

They make seat warmer kits, but you'd have to put the stuff int he foam yourself... Its great in winter, but on hi, it feels like you just took a pi**...my mom's JGC has em, and it was weird the first time!

on the train of thought of 87pathy, my drivers ed teacher owned a really old old car off the factory back in the day, he was getting 40mpg with a 4L v6 or something close to that, and they took it to the dealer to get it looked @, and they recalled the carb, and then he got 18mpg @ best... Its a scam. Ill be making the exact same trek tomorrow, so ill def keep a close eye on my mpg for ya

same exact process that i was thinking It minimizes the cut edges, so you don't have much if any cleanup or snag spots.... and keeps it rain tight . I would personally put a push pin kind of thing on the top, and have it push through into the side body edge, rather than weld so i could swap it out for the normal type one day possibly... I would just assume use HB latches, i think its the standard two loops, one on either side, then just run the cables and swap in the latch mechanism into the side sheet metal Lol, if i had a half decent fab garage, welder, the scrap parts, and SKILL...i would totally be on this After i get back from my trip, i wanna mess with photoshop on another version of the truckbed pathy (i know theres one or two that have the back roof chopped) But instead, chop all off behind the front seats, but only down to the bottom of the windows, then somehow get a bronco rear cap on it, and put a big bench seat facing backwards in the back, backed up to the back of the front seats, and use the rear two doors as suicide doors So many ideas..so little SKILL

Just a 'check-in' I got 5 free 235/75/15 (my tire size), one is a brand new pirelli scorpion.... I took the temp spare, and the pirelli to walmart tire, and since its an ACTUAL tire, not a donut like on sedans, they mounted right up, and because my shop didn't have the correct kind of balance weights, they used ones that clipped to the inside the best they could, gave me a free valve stem, washed it up, and gave me back all that i came with for only FIVE DOLLARS...

mikes hard with a hint of bacon cheeseburger?

So it looks like, it would be easier to chop up a hatch, and just use the latch from a HB tailgate..... I was actually thinking today, i would be a happy man if my truck got rear ended just in the tailgate, and a big I beam dropped 6" through the roof between the B and C pillars.....that way i would have an EXCUSE to screw with the body

did you ever figure it out?

Actually, a few years back mine did this EXACT same thing, and it was right after we got the brakes fixed... I can't remember just what they did to fix it, but I think it was an issue with something in the brake assembly rubbing...... Ill ask my ma just what it was

are you sure its not coming out of your air vent? in all the vehicles ive owned, even with the AC off, air still blows through

what is the width?

It would be interesting to see if the HB tailgate would fit.... alright, whos got the hb in here!!! i know theres one!

personally, i was planning on cutting the biggest set i saw on some site for 99 bucks, down to size...but now since people want almost 100 bucks to weld both on, im thinking of just getting a local shop to fab some cheap ones up, and they will install too.... Ill be going from flare to flare wheni do mine, i don't want any more body damage

i think the reason some of us get decent mpg, is cause...well...they are SLOW... I know that i personally drive totally different between the pathy and my malibu, simply because its an old slow truck, and it doesn't like it to get pushed hard... Maybe cause you had yours rebuilt, its getting more power, and therefore getting worse mileage?

i find with mine atleast, that there is always a big gap....either im on the highway getting 23, or im driving around getting 15.....not so much inbetween If you don't have cruise control that could play into it Theres so many factors that its impossible to just say 'this is why' unless there is genuinely a problem like your leaking gas by the gallon...

sorry to thread jack a little...but lovemypathy- your avatar takes my entire day! i get stuck watching it for a few moments, then i can't look away!!! :o back on topic- Im never getting a regular CAI, simply because the risk of stalling out by going through a large puddle, is a little too risky for someone on a budget like me..

...its been posted more than a few times before, but i couldn't say specifically where...

As the TM/Calmini lifts are completely different, you can use both, AND a BL to get a total of 10" of lift...but i don't think ive heard of anyone doing it... But what you gotta think of, is the only thing that really increases your clearance is the tire size, and running anything over 33's or 34's on anything that needs to be reliable, with IFS, is kinda risky.... And, the TM lift doesn't increase your clearance of alot of snag points, ie torsion bars, and anything else it drops... Another thing to think about, is $$, if you buy the entire calmini kit, thats 1000, plus the steering setup, thats 600, plus the TM kit, thats 1000....2600 bucks is alot of money.... And don't forget, these two kits specialize in lifting the FRONT, but when you go to look @ the back, to utilize the 7" of lift, you will need to find springs that will lift it enough, plus probably get rid of the sway bars, and get a custom panhard bar drop, extend all your brake lines, and im not sure, but maybe have to modify the control arms and/or driveline, depending....And to really utilize all this lift, you will need special back shocks, which won't come with either kit... This will render the following parts useless from either kit (im my logic is correct) Rear shocks Panhard bar drop Rear Brakeline extensions Rear Springs/Spacers (unless you WANT to use the TM spacers) But, hey, thats just my .02, i'd much rather go for 3+3=33's with a mismatched sl, but im rather cheap

Yeah, the guy i got mine from took 80 bucks for a set listed @ 120....but forgot to give me a few crucial wires he promised....and gas is too much to drive to that city to get them.... But between just the two subs i got, it was atleast 100 bucks in stuff

If your want better sound, think about having some subs installed, i just grabbed two very nice subs, plus wiring, and an amp and box, for 80 bucks on craigslist...and they make all the diff in my DD

mine does that too....albeit not so low (i think) but if @ park, and move the wheel, or put it in drive, it does lower in RPM noticeably I figured it was just bogging down, from powering the power steering, and being held back by the transmission....

you should throw the old alty through one of their huge glass windows.... Make that 1000 back!

Possibilities- Bad Battery Bad Alternator Too much pull on battery, not big enough alternator Pull on battery while car is off I don't think it would be the starter though......Have you checked the battery voltage while the car is off, not being jumped, and fails to start?