OldSlowReliable

This is one I designed, I already have a carrier though...but you could just put a piece of 1/4" angle iron on it, and use some 1x2x1/4" steel tubing to build a basic hinge, then go from there If you need a more visual thing, I can probably draw something up for ya This one is fairly close to his, although He did a 8-10 degree forward angle on the back portion about a foot in on each side (to match the body curve better) and of course had a tire carrier..

I've heard that if you take two nuts, and tighten them against each other on the end of the bolt (loosen one that is further on, tighten one that is closer to end) then that gives you plenty of turnable power to break it free, then you can just loosen them from eachother...

Understatement of the century! I think a couple ppl have the z24 around here (not much) but I know my pathy isn't very much noticeably slower than when I had 235's

Just for future reference- When I did my UCA's for my SL....I didn't want to untension the torsion bars, so I put a jack about an inch under the LCA, and a jack stand under the hub about an inch, then when I started to loosen the bolts, it just kinda pulled out as I went, and did all the work for me....although mine didn't really seem stuck in there to begin with...

^^ That seems like a half decent price, looks GOOD too... Or, if you got a welder, you could do all the fab yourself, and have a shop do the hinge stuff to simplify it a bit..

Wash the frame out GOOD. Use some sort of snake tool with a large wire brush rotary tool on it, to clean it up a bit.... Wash it out again. Dry. put some sort of small hose through the entire frame, then put some sort of radial sprayer attachment on it, and pull it through while spraying por15

I want your snow Dry here still....leaves are still falling, its horrible.

I don't know your monetary situation, but for one, you could get a shop to make a rear bumper/tire carrier....have an integrated hitch reciever (that makes it the most low profile and makes it less likely to get hung up on) with a swing out spare tire carrier. This would be my best bet, as it solves the issues without any real issues, and if you don't have an issue with having to swing out the tire carrier, its a great choice (doesn't take any space in your cargo area, and it looks good) Another option, is go with the regular style hitch and bumper, and get one of those spare tire hitch mount things. They work I guess, but they seem like a real PITA to use- 1- Not sure how you get to use your hitch if you are using the spare tire holder 24/7 2- Depending on the design, it may be a BIG pita to get into your rear storage 3- Not very attractive 4- Low hanging hitch 5- Probably about %50- %70 the price of the bumper/hitch/tire carrier combo.... Someone already got a custom rear bumper/carrier on a r50, and It looked pretty darn good if I remember.......

I'm pretty sure that its one of those things that just happens......maybe just close an inch or less, see if just having it at a different spot changes it? I know the same thing happens with the vents on my motorcycle helmet if I leave all of them open, and thats just there, nothing abnormal..

I get that sometimes too, but those fits are very far apart, once you get done with a wave of crap, its likely a few years before you gotta do anything again.... In the years I've had mine, I've only had to do 2 repairs, UCA and exhaust (rusted out) and just recently have all the tie rods replaced......although your mileage may vary, my PO's took very good care of mine, but yours maybe not so much..

you connected a winch to your bumper brackets? Have you SEEN the bumper bolts?

Hardest part is getting the tubing bent nicely and evenly, and getting the intersections cut so they fit flush and are strong..... Triangulation and gusseting are the key to a strong cage.

Plus, along the lines of the mounting points......if you build a cage into the body, it isn't very structural, and if you mount the harnesses too low, it can compress your spine on impact..

I know what you mean, but if I understand this correctly, it pumps the diff fluid through a cooler, which could clog or a line break, whereas Idk if i've heard of someone overheating their diff...seems like you'd break/burn something else before that could happen.... Although, the temp gauge sounds like a good idea/alternative, cause that way you could see if it was headed for disaster, but not have to worry about another thing breaking.....you know what I mean?

IMO Its just one more thing that can/will go wrong :S

You may want to do some research on harness mounting before you make a bad decision.

Sounds pretty darn close....I think when I measured the rear, it was like 64?

You know what engine it is? Pretty sure you have the VG30E, and if it has the same, it will probably work just fine.....but idk maximas enough to tell ya... But, i'm pretty sure we commonly use maxima alts, so they MIGHT have the same engines...

I still have two stock nissan ones, black rubber topper, with the nissan logo...but the keys show signs of wear, I.E. the guides have small burrs on the ends making unlocking difficult sometimes...but they are nice keys!

I think, Im gonna drop out of school, and sell sliders for 400 bucks a pop for a living.....they really do make a killing on those...

Kingman had the winch-mount wd21 version.....which mounts to the frame AND the factory tow points.....even then, hitting a rear bumper is different than a deer...... those plastic rear bumpers crumple and puncture, deer is like a projectile, 100 lbs going 50mph hitting YOU, whereas kingman was stopped, and pushed into the dude in front of him....

adjust your turn stops, I had 235's too, upgraded to 33x12.50 on 4" offset rims, it will only take a little bit, I just haven't got around to it..

theres a ferry! Naw, Im an avid welder too....just don't like FCAW with this new mig (spatter)

But I love their automotive department