GrimGreg

Been there.

All Nissans (at least pre 05) use a TX10A T-case IIRC. Though the case is slightly different on the manual and auto versions at the input.

Yeah, but blows the, "not to much $$$" out of the window.

Yeah, not much larger, but they'll be better traction in the dirt. You have the huge rain sheilds, can't get those in the USA.

That and the torque converter on the autos adding to the low end go power.

2 days later and still: :worthless:

Why only 1"?

Doesn't "look" broken, I'd just clean it up.

I would stay away from any kind of "Grill Guard" type stuff if you are trying to protect the vehicle. Greater chance of them getting bent into the vehicle causing more damage then if you hadn't had the guard there. They truely are all looks as far as strength.

I did that when mine started to go out, coaced it into working for about 6 months that way. Your solenoid is probably shot, you can buy just the solenoid (I have one in my toolbox), but you might as well just get a whole reman starter since you have to pull the thing to swap the solenoid on it anyway.

I'm pretty sure the gearboxes are different beween the 4 and 6 cylinders, though it might only be the bell housing being different that changes the model number on them. As for the turbo, it will only really help you with top end torque.

The rusty part is part of the air pump for the EGR system. You might gain a minimal amount of power, but loose some MPG if you remove it (and the parts connected to it).

I never said the weight was the same, you're right though, the added doors added a lot of steel structure not on a 2 door in both the door jamb and door its self.

Even without adding any water you are always putting water through the engine, unless you are in a location that is so arid there is 0 humidity. Water vapor is a component of air, so you will always have water there. As for the exhaust side, there is water going through it if the engine is running properly anyway, that is why cheap steel exhausts will rust out of a car even in a non rust prone area. Which is why they sell all the stainless exhaust systems to begin with.

Think you just did....maybe....

2 and 4 door versions are the exact same length width and height (at least stock...).

It shouldn't, at least not with the clutch engaged/disengaged...(whichever term really fits). Ideally you can start the engine while holding the fan and it will not spin. Yes it is always spinning when you look at a running engine, but half the time it is spinning for the same reason spinner wheels spin even after the donk stops.

Yep, sounds like a bad/seized fan clutch.

Row faster...

No troubles if you switch, but yeah, kinda pointless to use an expensive synthetic if you are leaking it out and dirt in.

Some older Nissan manual trannys needed to be overfilled (factory flaw), so the mechanic might just think they all do.

Are you putting them all in loose, then tightening them up? Or are you tightening as you go? Try using a drift to get one hole lined up then put the bolt in the other, then pull the drift and get the bolt in that hole.

I know the problem, someone put shudders on your Pathfinder...they are made to go on the house not the truck.

Ah, thought you just disassembled it and discovered the Cs were bent. I know a lot of people don't bother with clocking when they SAS.

Some did, others had the little gay ass spoiler on the tailgate.