GrimGreg

Since I have the pic in the clipboard and it shows them:

So do those of us without the sways. On the hwy you're fine, where you have to watch is the curvey roads. When you see the signs with a curve and 35 posted, you'll want to go 35! I asked the guy following me to the trail yesterday if I leaned a lot; his eyes got big, he giggled and said, "just a little". Once you get used to going without, you get the feel of the curve limits of your truck. Hell the first time I hit the road after removing mine I was going 70mph down the hwy and a guy in a old truck pulled right in front of me going 50, I swerved into the next lane and kept going, no issues.

The 93-95 all have the same bumpers. 92 and older all have the same bumpers. I bought one used for my 93 (no headlight hoops or hardware) and it didn't quite line up either. The bumper mounts were too wide, I just persuaded them into place and used the mount holes in the grill vents. I swapped the screw with plastic retainer for a nut and bolt. Then the bottoms I used some flat plate and some bolts to make my own mount. Need close ups of the mounts, let me know.

I've done a HB and a Pathy lift, the blocks for the bed are smaller. Not that they wouldn't work, but I don't know how much I would trust them .

The 4.0L is the in-line 6 engine.

The set on my 93 are made from 2" square tube. They are attached to the frame by 3 "legs" that have a plate that is welded to the frame. Mine are kind of tight in, but can be used as a step, I have thought about adding a short second piece of tube under each door for a step point, but never did it.

Some companys say MT = Maximum Traction....

I opened mine up and cleaned the contacts with sandpaper.

One fix I heard about for the popping hoop was to slide a piece of cut off garden hose down between the hoop and the hoop it runs through.

Yeah, aggresive tread is good for that, what they don't do well on is hard pack and ice.

Young and dumb comes to mind...

Dude, just get JGC coils and crank the T-bars allign it and be done!

I remember some of the heavy equipment I used to drive had dual fuel setups, they could run diesel or propane. It was nice to go into a warehouse and be able to not burn diesel, but still use the same piece of equipment.

Might try drilling a drain hole in your muffler, just a 1/8" by the rear flange at the bottom.

My guess is cracked cap, ignighter, or coil. When the water gets into the crack it causes a short.

I wish I could find an R50 roof rack like that, could change my whole rack plan with my 88 if I could locate one for cheap.

A SL will add a slight amount of clearance at the front crossmember (not much), but you still have the LCAs angling down from it. In the rear, no a SL will not increase clearance as he solid axel maintains the same distance from the ground, just the distance to the frame above it is altered.

BTW, Tire shine works great on Herc once it fades

As in OEM replacement stuff? I don't know any source besides the dealer, but I'd like to find one cheaper.

Yeah, leather is a natural product, and natural "ointments" work best on it. Silicone works good on vinyl, plastic and vulcanized rubber type things. I actually do leathercraft as a hobby. I agree the Lexol is great stuff to use to maintain the seats, but I'd give them an initial working of Dr. Jacksons if they are at all dry looking.

Most who run wider without at least upgraded steering tend to have issues offroad breaking steering components. I've even seen people with upgraded steering have troubles like wearing out Ball Joints and such.

Some states heim joints in the steering is not street legal. If you so want heims for your TREs, be sure to get the expensive ones that are both greasable and servicable. I had a friend with all heim steering (the cheap kind) and every little movement was a squeek from them.

Lost me on that one.

Mink oil is a water proofer only, doesn't do anything for cleaning or conditioning.

I put a Gibson cat-back on my 93, it sounds nice.