GrimGreg

Hmm, I don't have a plastic welder, or plastic washers.... Actually over sized washers do work well, I saw a guy who modified a Skid Row skid so that the bolt heads were tucked inside steel washers.

With the right drift it isn't to bad, I just used a jack stand and a ratchet strap to hold the door.

Just weld some washers large enough to let your socket fit on the nut in place.

It's a TX10a skid, there is the same T-case on every 4wd Nissan from 86-05 (not sure what 05+ use, might still be the TX10a ...).

Heck, you can find the hinge pins and bushings in a kit at Pep Boys in the cheap replacement part section (where they have the door handles, window cranks etc.).

Yep, that's it:

Do they ever move on there own when you are driving along, or just when you have it parked and off?

Does your daughter like to play with her mom's stuff, like keys? If you can control the windows from the fob, maybe someone else did it from in the house. (Or maybe you picked up a ghost, and they needed some fresh air....)

Yeah, I've mentioned them before, The one over (under) the exhaust crossover pipe finally split, but it took 2 years to do so. At first it just molded its self in place from the heat. Even split I think it would have saved my tranny pan from a rock hit. They are nice because they are cheap, light and easy to cut or drill, not to mention take a licking.

The one I worked on had one just like the WDs, it might have been an addition the owner had done, but he wanted beefier so I pulled it and molded on it.

I actually think they ride smoother without.

The T-case skids I started making fit any TX10a, The prototype I made was for an R50 infact. Basically all I did was remove the tin stock skid, and using it as a jig, built a plate steel one around it, drilled for the stock mount holes. After the second scratch made one, I made cardboard templates for the skid pieces. IIRC I had figured about $150 to make one to cover my T&M. Only ever made 5 of them.

I used cutting boards and self tapping bolts for skids on my 88.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ Catalog page 3169

Like I said, it will get your body work up higher away from being so easily rock damaged. BTW, you will not gain ANY articulation from any SL, if anything you can loose some in the rear (thicker/taller springs can't compress as much).

Actually I think a slight crank on the T-bars (not so much that you need aftermarket UCAs) and some lift/ JGC springs in the rear and you'll still have a strong enough system with 31s for what it sounds like you'll be doing. Then add a BL to get your rockers up out of the way. I've seen more carnage from high SLed (W)D-21s than non SLed ones on simple obsticles. Even with aftermarket CLs, you use the same Tie Rods and they are what like to bend into pretzels, especially at the angles they get put into with a SL.

I have seen color matched covers, but they tend to look a little too close to rice for my taste. (Says the guy who painted his Hella light covers.... )

Was he thinking you had the 4cyl? They are chain.

No, but my point is that might be the second or even third T-belt that has been changed on it. Just because at 179K it has a new T-belt doesn't mean it was the first time it was ever changed.

I never did like the black-outs on anything but a black vehicle.

My T-belt is out of "interval", I put a new one in any time I need to dig in that far.

Was reading on AC last night that a guy in Georgia just bought a R50 and is selling his WD.

See, why you do a Carfax, you bought a Raver Edition....

Damn, talk about an efin insult!~ I'm trying to be funny and you go for blood...

Yep, that is a risk, but if you don't specify "matched set" then it could be the truth. Just look through some of the availabilities on different sizes and treads they offer. It sounds like they try to keep them matched up and warn if they won't be, but you also never know how worn the carcass is. Matched or not 3 could have been originally manufactured in 1995 and the last could have been a 1985, but they are matching....