GrimGreg

I replaced front to back for less than half your cost; Pacesetters, high flow cat, Gibson cat back. I have no doubts your's will preform better than stock, my point was it probably won't get you any better than a standard aftermarket setup with a single pipe.

Seriously sounds like a bad connection somewhere.

Well if most of us use a 2.5"- 3" for singles, then you would think smaller on duals would be the way to go. Personally I don't see the point it's just a waste of extra tube, an extra muffler and space for nothing more than looks.

If you are serious about keeping the old stripped out block, take it to a machine shop and have them weld fill the bolt holes then have them re drilled and tapped. You can overdrill and insert the thred-serts, but I don't know if I trust them in such a critical torque spec application. Same with over-sizing the head bolts, it will probably cause more issues unless you drill out all of them and retap at a larger size.

That is all well and good as long as the bolt wasn't spinning with the nut. I just back off the lock, hold the regular nut with a wrench and use the impact to turn the bolt.

Well the fact that it read low while hooked up to the other battery is what makes it sound like a bad connection. If the reading was that low with a good connection, the other battery was at that low voltage also. Try this first; hook it up to the Bronco and let it run for about five-ten minutes, then try starting the Pathfinder.

Check your terminals are clean, and that your jumper cables are making a good connection on both ends.

Most all rebuilts are made in the same place, just put in different boxes depending on what store they are being shipped out to.

As for saftey , remeber we have a fully boxed frame, if one side is rusted out, you still have more frame than most any old American truck on the road (they have C channels).

I think there was a fix (besides replacement).

Even then...it's like us 2DR auto tranny owners, the tranny by its self is worth more than the vehicle whole!

By the time you buy all those as just parts you could probably get a nice used SC Frontier or Xterra.....

They might have done a Hardbody headlight swap and are using the "phantom grill"...? https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_in...products_id=538

The rear fenders? They aren't removeable (well technically they are, but you would probably do more damage attempting to remove them than you already have as they are welded in place and body filler seams). Maybe see if you can park by the back door and work on it that way?

There is a known issue with the 94-95 gauge cluster, I don't know what exactly it is though as I have older Pathys so never looked to far into it. IIRC it is something in the electronics in the cluster.

Sounds like a great deal to me, nice custom color too.

Unless it only does it in 4wd then it probably isn't the half shafts. Might be a bad or dry auto hub if it will lock up then free up again. Usually if bearings go, you stop and can not go at all because they seize up and heat weld.

Or use all the bracketry and pullys from the SC doner also.

Buying insurance is just like buying tools; cheap is usually not going to work worth a crap when you really need it, but you don't neccisarily need to buy the most expensive made to do the job either. I'm with Nationwide, for one, they are based here in town, but also I have a good deal and they have came through for me when I had claims in the [past with no bickering. I had a few others and 2 that were teribble to deal with if you have a claim are Progressive and USAA.

Never seen one for it BECAUSE it is R&P. You might be able to make something custom like a shock sistered to the tie-rod or something. Actually though I would look at all your suspension components for wear, then see if your bearings are good, then check the R&P for slop.

Any automotive store will have the relay that the fogs use, it is a standard relay.

That "repair" concept is fine, though their connection of new to old is bad. A butt joint is not a good idea, at the very least it should have a gusset that crosses the joint perpendicular to it and fully welded. Better would have been a staggered weld joint. Also, if they didn't have it jigged properly, they could have tweaked the actual geometry of the frame with heat distortion.

Yeah, only issue I have seen/heard of is if you go over like 6" (155mm) in the rear you might get some rub on the rear crossmember.

NO, that one is bolt into captive nut, ie bolt only, nut hidden and unaccessable. Just unscrew the old bolt and then screw in the new bolt once you put the spacer in. Nothing needs done otherwise. Only 2 and 4 have the plastic piece holding the loose nut.