GrimGreg

as far as mechanical, there weren't any real changes between trims, unless it was a cheap early one with a 4cylinder, or a 2wd with no T-case they were all V6 with either a manual or automatic all of which held the same basic part numbers throughout production. Only other mechanical variance was to do with the rear end and that wasn't trim based either (disc/drum, LSD/open). The main differences were between years, not trims.

It takes the pump a moment to start "assisting", so in a panic manuver type instance your power assist isn't really there. In the slolom situation, the first turn should be hard but after that it should turn smooth and easily. Also, the larger or more heavily treaded your tires, the more resistance there is to turning.

I'd worry about the wire chaffing on the pinch seam where you ran it.

All off the shelf oils have addatives in them already. Unless it's a real POS you should be fine with those only.

Feel around on the back side of the rear fender there is a rubber plug there that you can swap to a grommet and run the wire through.

It will probably bolt up, but it is not the same one that you have now.

After many posts here, it seems that the trim level listed is truely meaningless. Some have SEs with manual windows and some have XEs with power...stuff like that. Unless you are looking to rebadge your truck with factory stickers, don't worry about it.

My speedo needle was bent when I bought my 88, PO had cut it, I actually put some new plastic on mine.

Yeah, if it is just the rocker arm keeper, you are probably fine as long as there is enough material to drill/tap/heli-coil.

Yeah, especially anything using an AC current to weld. Good thing the ones I did didn't need to be pretty, just functional (aluminum roof curbing under a generator).

They honored their rookie salesman's mistake when I bought my wheels and tires there (when there was a store in town). What he sold me should have been $850 on sale for $710, he sold me them for $610.

Use something like channel locks to grab the base, or the back side. Might try a little PB Blaster on the nut too.

Talk about a discount!

"CV" stands for constant velocity, however it is used to refer to the joint ends of the half-shafts. Some people call the half shafts; CV axels, CV shafts, etc. If the previous owner never used the 4wd, you might want to give the entire system a once over. Non-use can cause a lot more issues than regular use.

Yeah, if you have never seen any sign of leakage or ever had to add coolent, then you probably have no issue. It would take a good bit of coolent leaking to cause any issue.

Your biggest issue might be getting your gauge cluster to work. Otherwise, if you have all the wiring and ECU from the 3.3 all should go fairly smooth for install.

We don't have any keys, but you can change the size of the bump stops, however you might bust more CVs/CV boots. The aftermarket upper control arms that are available are engineered to fix the BJ angle after cranking though.

It isn't the amount of flex you gain with no sway (at least the front), we have bump stop limiters that keep our front in a certain motion range, you can tweak it a little, but we all have the same basic amount of front flex lifted or not, sway bar or no. With the sway in place it is constantly trying to keep the 2 wheels level, so if you are in a situation where your one front tire is stuffed and the other is drooping that restrictive force of the sway might be the difference of that drooped tire hangining in the air, where as with no sway it might have full ground contact.

I've thought about chopping my 88 2dr, and have seen a few others done. Only ever saw one 4dr chopped, and it wasn't done well. I'll dig up some pics.

Yeah, the weight of the V8 required larger, stiffer springs. The I6 springs will give a little lift, but only about 1".

Mine gets cranky sometimes, usually only when I shift it while sitting still though.

Much the same here, book value/ what people will pay is usually indifferent to any modifications, unless they are extreme mods and put the vehicle into the custom class. I like the pre '05 Frontiers a lot better than the new ones. They have a stronger drivetrain and are smaller.

You'll be OK, you just won't have full droop, and it may ride a little rougher having the shocks sit near max extension but no harm.

That could be the problem, just like our exhaust manifold bolt issue, if the helicoiled bolt expands and contracts at a different rate than the others it could cause a hot spot or cold spot and blow gaskets or even warp the head.

What year Fronty?