GrimGreg

For sheet metal, you'll want MIG, my little flux core 110v 80amp unit blows holes in thin metal.

Key there is electrical, they don't know crap about low voltage, for that you need an electronics engineer.

They must have switched to superstitious hampsters that keep knocking on wood.

Not sure, just what I was told when I was concidering the swap myself.

The only thing I have ever driven that turns better is my wife's VW. Hell, they turn inside the Honda Accord I had.

The factory shipping tie downs are not good recovery points, Mz's almost got torn clean off at Haspin Acres when we tried to winch him by it. I would replace the front factory hook, and add a second on the other side (alternate if you have 90s era Chevy full size trucks, theirs will also bolt up IIRC). And for the rear I would either upgrad to a class 3 hitch (square receiver) and get a shackle mount for it, or bolt some hooks to the frame rail in the rear.

I've heard of them having bad welds new, if you didn't do anything to cause the hole, ride their aass till they fix or replace it.

Chevy 3/4 ton I think is the swap, but that is for SAS. But you should swap to the disc brake master cylinder.

So, what is the mystery knock?

A few of my 93's: Tranny Temp and volt guages Mag light and 12v outlet (always on) Toyota altimeter and tilt guages

You might need to adjust your steering stops or something, mine turn on a freakin dime!

MADE YA LOOK! Good to see it does fit nice in there

Or the hoses that go to the throttle body?

X2

Does it interfere with the back seat bottoms foiding down?

Yep, looks like it broke once and was repaired. There should be a blade terminal sticking out of the back of the sensor that you would just slip that on.

I take oepned stuff back to NAPA all the time, they just check all the parts are there and send you on your way with your money back.

Try adjusting the latch, it might not be pulling the window tight enough to seal out the water.

Your problem is probably the contact ring on the column, or the contact wheel on the steering wheel.

I got a set of Stauns on trade from a guy instead of $$$ when he owed me. I've used them a few times, but it is hard to get them set just right. I thought I had them all preset for 17psi before a trip(tested each one till it was set), when I went to air up after the run 2 of my tires were at 11psi, and 2 were at 15psi.

The 2" kit only requires some minor repositioning of things, the 3" kit requires extentions on some hoses. Neither will pose a problem with the shifter, there is enough slack in it's cable for a 6" body lift (if they made one and were legal.)

Backwards....???

Yeah, the pressure sensor is beside the filter above the starter, it has a single wire running to it. A couple things that could cause it to flicker or come on are; the wire is chaffed at some point and grounding out, wire loose on the sensor(or fell off), when they changed the oil the new oil caused some sludge to dislodge and is blocking the sensor.

I don't have sways and mine doesn't do that.

I dropped my gas tank when I did my frame repairs, not too hard to do, and gets any worry out of the way.