GrimGreg

T-case in neutral? Did you hook the driveshaft back up?

Galvanized releases some nasty toxic fumes when you weld it, be carefull. I usually try to strip the coating off first (since it will just burn off anyway otherwise).

I usually just kiss the old and new filter gaskets together and give 'em a twist. Usually enough oil on the old one(by the time it is spun off) to apply to the new one

I screwdrivered the one off my old Chevy Wagon. I don't think the oil had been changed in years on that when I bought it (besides the fact it used oil, so it got a fresh quart with every other fill up ). Thing is, it was so tight I basically cut the end off the filter trying to turn it with the screwdriver, ended up tapping it around by the oil passege holes till it was loose enough to spin off.

My wife's 94 HB didn't make any scary bangs or anything when it's T-belt broke and valves bent. It had been idling for 2 minutes when it died. I tried to start it back up and nothing. Only thing I could hear was a sound like something rubbing inside the ditributor.

Mine had a leak develop around the seal between the pump/sender assembly and the tank. I bought a new seal, but it didn't fix the problem. Ended up using a sealer around the flange to get it sealed back up.

Fuseables are right by the battery terminal connectors.

Never understood the reason for a diff skid on a third member diff. I've dragged mine over a lot of rocks and it still looks fine. I can see the use on one with a cover that can peal off the back easily though.

Meh, you still got 4 left, that's all the Hondas have

Usually if the water pump is shot it will leak on purpose out a little weep hole on the bottom of it.

The guages were changed in 90 and 94. The 90 change was a minor change, but still would require a lot of splicing since the connectors are completely different.

Probably just out of buisness, he was racing in the 70s. http://www.datsunhistory.com/Racehistory1.html

Check AC they have a pretty good lot of Frontier guys there. I advise against the one on NOR, it's full of idiots who let loose a flood of misinformation.

IIRC they are 6mm

Yeah, as you pull the front back into position it should pull that well area back. There will probably still be a crease, but that is where the hammer and dolly come in.

Remember about 5 quarts are going to sit in the torque converter if you just drain it at the pan.

Gasoline and a match come to mind.

It looks like mine had the same issue, and I am planning to remove it on mine. My coil was just laying there like yours, looks like the area it had been mounted to was "repaired" (someone threw a piece of sheetmetal over the hole).

What are you, some kinda prude? Never got a ticket or in an accident in either of my Pathys. Some of my cars I've had were different stories though sssh .

Or corroded at the top of the tank.

$300 lift

Probably rusted all along those huge fender cuts.

I have the same jack (but with Craftsman's name badge), it won't even reach the frame on my Pathys. I picked up a 3 ton in a nice set and it has a max height of about 2', it can barely get the wheels off the ground by jacking on the frame, but at least it CAN get them clear. I only use the little guy on little cars, it is 1" shorter at it's lowest and can fit under cars better. BTW is there any way to refill the little ones? I think mine has an air bubble in it or something. I only get lift with like the last 1/2" on the stroke.

What do you mean, stock height, width....?

Front doors are the same on both.