GrimGreg

It doesn't stop the flex (pigeon toe), but it does stop the breaking and bending of components when you do stress the front. At RTCC, I saw a Frontier with the L&P kit (Luv2ski's) at max pigeon toe and full throttle spinning. Soon as he let off the throttle, it was just fine. Stock components,, in the same situation would look like pretzels.

Check your fire extinguisher and make sure its guage reads in the green still. If you don't have an extinguisher, GO GET ONE!

Bet they won't do anything about the floorpan either.

Yeah, look for "slidders". Most ones available for our trucks are like $250 and up for a pair.

Reverse is the first gear to go out in an auto if the tranny is about to die.

Looks like a 93-95 XE.

You still wouldn't get stuff done, and you know it's true.

Only time mine won't coast is when it is in 4wd.

So you are thinking the hydros to replace the stock links? That might work, but you would either need really stubby ones to be able to up travel enough, or find a new place to mount the frame end.

I'd guess that.

The previous owner of mine just screwed a piece of sheet metal over a similar hole and left the hole to fester under it. The new sheet is still fine, but whatever it was screwed into has disappeared. For your's, I would cut back the rust, then hit the area with POR, then rivet or screw a new piece of metal over the hole. By removing the rust before covering te hole you might be saved my fate.

Welder

It should just burn up. Tried JB once for a trail repair on my exhaust, lasted about 5 minutes.

I would guess you are too heavy footed on the brake and just heat soaked the damn things.

My frame had a nice convienient rust hole on the sides right by the front mounts for mine. I just welded the nut to the rectangular inner frame piece that came in the part kit, and slid it into the frame and bolted up throught the botom of the frame into it.

My point is if they are locked in place on the road they aren't going to be doing anything for anti-sway. If you want to use them for anti-sway purposes then when the truck leans in a corner, you need to force more air into the side that is leaning to stop the body roll. As for offroad use if you have each one set up like a normal bag setup uses (pump and purge valved) then you can do some awsome stuff. Have a friend with a Taco who runs bags and he can gain extra flex with them, just deflates the high side and pumps up the low side and he is leveled out. Look up "Krawlr".

Looks strong, got any pictures of the mounts?

Yeah, easiest is to use a guitar string or other thin steal braided cable and get one person inside and one out and just saw back and forth around the window. Don't do it on a hot day, or in the sun because it will try to reseal.

So how are you going to force the pressure to the side that is leaning?

It should be fine, Mine ar prtty exposed on my 88, but haven't gotten near hitting the mounts ever.

My opinion would be to just repaint the parts rather than throw a vinyl sticker on them.

Me too for my 88.

He is looking for usefull, not pretty. I had a Mank guard once, looks good, but completely worthless for anything but knocking down tall weeds and mounting lights on. If you hit anything larger than a weed with a Manik guard, first thing it will do is collapse into the grill and hood.

Just the larger, 1" ones right? I've never seen or heard complaints on their 1/2" ones.

Might try doing some research before throwing ideas out. Hockey pucks are a VERY bad idea for lift blocks.